xdeadeye1

one idea i have is to remove the O2 sensor in the front ,,,, allowing it breath a lil. SHould i reset the computer like texan said at the same time,, or wait and do seperately?

I think I could at least see if it drives better when I unbolt it.. and give exhaust somewhere to go. I had daughter start car.. while I had my hand at the exhaust tail pipe.. It had cool air/exhaust comging thru it. but not a ton of pressure. She said it was up to 3k rpm and she was barely on the gas.. At 3k rpm I think I should have been able to tell at the rear... and I couldn't tell much differences

Yes dipstick by starter.. yellow top,, with a ring pull. Reads full. I checked it running and hot. It was a lil over the full hot line. When I brought it home when I first got it, it was dripping from the very rear of the transmission.. I think it was right at the cross member / trans support. I thought it was over full. I drained and refilled. The transmission pan is not dented in any way. My dipstick measures 17 1/2" from the lip of the pull,, to the end of the metal rod. Seems like its stock.. Says Dextron II on the yellow plastic. I took it for a short drive today to show my buddy (who knows nothing about cars or soobs) I didn't warm it up hardly at all. Went down the road,, shifted 1-2 a lil rough,, finally shifted to 3. Has very little power.. no get up and go at all. I kept giving it gas harder and it would down shift very hard and I would panic and let off it. we went about 3/4 mile and we got nervous we wouldn't get home. I turned around and we limped into the driveway. I looked under the car to check the pan to see if dented. The exhaust pipe is smoking a lil,, in front of the rear catalytic converter.. like it was very hot. There is a sensor behind that same cat converter. The car is throwing no CEL codes or anything. Feels like its a trans problem. But dang it has no power,, and at the end there it felt like even in 2nd gear it had no get up and go. Could this be a cat converter problem? If it was clogged...? If you have responded to this thread.. I really appreciate it. I cant afford to send it to a trans shop or a dealer. With no codes and no experience in this area... I'm trying to ascertain what the problem is before I move. I'm hoping its not a full trans swap/ repair job,, and something that I can fix .

This is a 2000 outback wagon. When I turn the key to on,, all the lights light up. I see the AT oil Temp light. When I turn the key and start it,, the AT oil Temp light stays on for 3 seconds and then goes out. I had cleared the CEL. I drove it to town (about 3 miles) and back, and no CEL came on. I noticed it seems to lack power where it should have a "powerband" between 2500 and 3k rpms. I took it easy, I climbed a hill it down shifted once and all seemed ok.. Then I crested and went down the other side and it didn't seem to want to shift up into the higher gear. It did eventually. And I went the rest of the flat way home.

would a clogged cat converter do this? When I bought the car the guy said something about the cat converter needing replaced. I test drove it,, and then drove it home 2.5 hrs and had no issues.. So I thought it was a non issue.

I checked the CEL code. it said fault 1 then it said N/A no code given. I erased it to see if something else happens. Its not driving right,, shifting right, even on flat ground now.. doesn't want to go up into next gear. The fluid I put in was 7.50 / bottle,, Castrol Multi import. I'm praying it isn't a bad transmission. But at this point I don't know what else it can be.

wondering if the guy overfilled the transmission to cover the issue.. IDK

um.. well fluid looked red. i replaced what i took out, not a full flush. I changed filter Ill scan tonight As far as i know , the timing belt was changed at 62k miles. its now at 117k Thats all i know. It ran great bringing it home and the week or two i had it home.

I have a problem.. not sure what it is. Hoping its fixable ,, Easily..(eyeroll) 117k miles on 2000 outback wagon. Drove car home , started smoking. Tranny was over full. Drove it home and had no other issues. Got home, drained and refilled. Ran normal the few times i drove it around,, Now, when it downshiftts on a hill ,,, the engine kicks down,, but the car doesnt pick up speed,, i dont know if this is "slippping" or not. But i know it isnt right. I have a 1996 wagon with 210000 miles and it doesnt behave like this. According to the dipstick the tranny fluid is to the full hot line. Maybe someone put a wrong dipstick in ? IDK Its a plastic yellow hoop top dipstick. I am also throwing a code CEL. IDK what it is yet. But it didnt have it on before today. im sick to my stomache. Any advice is appreciated. Ill check the engine code later when i get home. ps. It runs and accelerates and goes 70 mph on flat stretches,,

So far.. I just changed the rear diff oil with 75-90, Idk what was in there. Drained tranny, replaced filter. I think I got about 2 gal out of it. when I emptied my (previously clean) pan, the bottom of the pan has a white residue . Its not gritty or hard, and its not sawdust... Idk.. I'm going to get some tranny fluid.

YES my 1996 is like this.

and hey, I didn't see the fuse holder for the FWD only option. I wanted to check that to make sure there wasn't a fuse in it.. But I didn't see it. If it has one its not where my 96 wagons is.

I checked it not running at all , cold: Its 2 inches above the full cold mark I checked it running, but not warmed up at all.. I ran it thru the gears, put in park, its one inch above full mark cold. So I think its just over full. I drain some out and adjust fire.

The guy said he got it at 58k and did the timing belt and Head Gaskets. 58k timing belt,,,, its 117 k miles right now,,, So current timing belt has 59 k on it. Thanks about the 2.2/2.5 I didn't know that. I'm hoping its just over filled and was expanding out the breather under the stress of the hill. Regarding oil, I didn't ask, but I think its dino oil. Wolfs head sticker on the window. So I guess I should continue with the dino 5w30 ?

It was at the rear of it, behind the pan. I could see what seemed to be like a cross member or transmission mount. It was dripping from there.

Bought a 2000 outback with 116 k miles. Cheap. Interior Great, Exterior excellent for 17 yr old car. One big rust hole low inside passenger side back door. Undercarriage in rear looked good. It was throwing some codes when I got it,, but I cleared them when I got home and have yet to make them pop up again. It seemed to run fine. Surprised to see it had a 2.2 engine. At least I think it is. it doesn't have the dual cams on the heads,, so I think its a 2.2. On way Home: about a 2.5 hr drive home. Buddy following me in my truck,, no plates on the car. He flagged me down to pull over,, "car is smoking when you came up that hill back there." Turns out the car was dripping transmission fluid, toward the rear of the tranny,, seemed to be just behind the ATF pan. It dripped on the exhaust. Made smoke. I had the car on cruise around 70 mph. Going up hills the car would down shift, and RPMs would go up to like 3.3k 3.5k and it would get up speed and kick up a gear again. did this 3 or 4 times on this long hill. Checked the fluid with car running,, went thru the gears, etc. Fluid seemed to be WELL ABOVE the full mark hot. 1. Will an over full transmission do this? 2. Do you think the seller did this on purpose for some reason? Overfill it 3. I didn't notice the car doing this on the test drive, but I didn't go up as big of or long hills,, at 70 mph either. I'm pretty happy with the car. and the price I paid. As of right now this is the only thing I'm "Worried" about.

I used a felpro on my 2.2 1996 legacy. No problems. about 25 k on it since the change.

on a 1996 2.2 its an o-ring.. idk about a 2.5

i had tried that site,, i clicked on the bearing but it doesnt load. But now i think maybe i have to call them to order. Based on what i said,, do you guys still think it might be suspension?

Update; I checked my rear pumpkin.. it was low on rear end oil. I put more in. It seems it has a slow leak from the last 3 years or so. Nothing wet on pavement. Some black oil seems to be seeping from the top of the rear end.. and leaking down across the face of the rear end. But its not wet, just blacker than It should be. That aside. Going up a grade/ hill going about 45-50 mph. If I let off the gas and then step on it again, I get this fump from the rear of the car. I can replicate it by doing the same thing again. Doing some searching for parts without actually getting under the car and inspecting, I don't have a lift and I didn't want to tear into the exhaust shield etc. before getting an idea from you guys. I don't relish putting my car on 4 jack stands and lying on my back to inspect the U-Joints. I'm not a mechanic, but I can do the work if I need to. I just hate the not knowing what I'm looking for. I haven't looked into the rear shocks or mounts yet, as it seems drive line related. I went looking for some parts, Specifically the U joints and a center bearing. These are not easy to find via online parts stores. Rock auto is out of U joints, but I think I found some replacements on Ebay. The thing I thought I might need to look at is the center support bearing. I cant find this anywhere. I haven't gone to Subaru as I was hoping to find it at a lower cost. But I cant even find a part number for it. 1996 Legacy wagon, 2.2 EAT

They sent me pictures on Facebook. I cant post them here idk... anyway,, the rust isn't around the top,, you can see the metal split inside the wheel well behind the strut.. and inside the car they have the carpet panel pulled back and it seems to be coming apart there too. But not the strut cap area.

Messaging the owner she said the problem is that the metal is rusted where it mounts

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/113898042652644/?ref=messenger_share

I thought I did the right way when I did the brakes. Maybe not. Mine is a 1996 legacy wagon 2.2 eat

Judging from the Advertisement, its rust. No mention of wreck, and body looks fine from outside