loyale1993

Tempatures are in the 20 to 80 f range. Next oil change I'll try 10w40

I have the exact same issue. I did the seals in mine a couple months ago and still TOD. I am running 5w 30 oil in it right now which is probably part of the problem. If I did it over again I would get a new oil pump. It's frustrating to put in the time to just end up with the same issue. If it lasts another 60 K I will put in a new pump at the next timing belt change along with the cam seals.

Test the solenoid with a multimeter. It should read 30ish ohms for a good one.I fixed mine for $5 and an hour of my time at a junkyard. The crank angle sensor is in the disty and from what I read it is not serviceable. If that was bad I don't think your engine would run because that sensor tells the computer what cylinder to fire first. When I got the code for my crank sensor it was because of a broken timing belt.

Thanks everybody. On my next oil change I will run a little ATF through the engine, then use a 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil and try that. Or I could just slow down and keep the rpm's below 4k but that is lame

I have the idiot light and no pressure gauge. I suppose I should hook up an aftermarket gauge.

Try www.partsgeek.com I've ordered parts from there a couple times for my loyale and had good luck. They have good prices too.

I believe it was 5-30

The seal was brownish color. The car has 154k and the oil pump shaft didn't look worn but I didn't measure it either. Can a loose oil filler cap cause aeration of the oil?

I hope so Dave. I've driven it about 300-500 miles so far.

I'm having the same issue. The TOD isn't all the time. I recently replaced the shaft seal,o ring, and the mickey mouse gasket. And still TOD! I've read about using different weight oil and also using Seafoam in the engine. Any more info about these options? Sorry if I high jacked the thread.

Yes I replaced the shaft seal, an O ring and the mickey mouse gasket. I'm not sure of the brand of the shaft seal. It was a kit from partsgeek.com

So I recently replaced my oil pump seals and gaskets because I had the tic of death... I still have it!? It isn't constant but has been happening after I run the car on the highway for about 20 minutes. It goes away when I exit and get to speed on the road towards my house. Anybody have some ideas on why this is happening? Any remedies short of removing the oil pump again? Thanks!

I temporarily mounted my Uniden 510 on the top of my dash just to the left side of the steering wheel. It is temporary but I didn't see any other spot to put it. It doesn't look to bad and it is convenient but everybody can see it in the windshield.

If you get a solenoid from another car manufacture you will have to use your wire plug from your old solenoid and wire it up to your new one. If you have an ohm meter make sure you have 30ish ohms for a good solenoid. I just did this on my ea82. I found an evap solenoid off a ea82 at a junk yard. Swapped out the wiring and bada bing fixed the code 34.

I've tried using the jack trick and no luck. Also my 1/2" ratchet tends to slip out of the plug if I'm not pushing on it to hold it in there so it gets awkward. I think I will pick up a breaker bar to get more leverage and go from there. I really don't mind adding to my tool collection.

I've read that on bobistheoilguy forum 75w represents synthetic oil and 80w represents petroleum product. Did any of you buy a special socket for the drain plugs or just use a 1/2" drive?

Thanks ya'll. I used the 75w and drove it 20 miles to work this morning. It didn't blow up so that's a good sign. I went to drain the rear diff last night but I cannot get the drain or fill plugs to budge. Would it be stupid to hit it with an impact gun to break them loose?

Oops bought my gear oil and then looked at the book and it calls for 80w. Can I use 75w?

Ok that is how I figured it but wanted another opinion. Thanks!

Does it matter if it says for LSD?

Hello, I'm new to the forum although I've been lurking for quite sometime.I own a 1993 Loyale ea82 with 3at 4x4 and love it! I bought it a year ago with 142k and now has 154k. This forum along with my Haynes manual helped me replace my timing belts and water pump. Oh and a egr solenoid went bad too $5 from a junk yard and I was back running so thanks for those tips! Next thing to do on my subie is the diff's. Im sure the rear is an open diff because when I spun one wheel forward the other went the opposite direction and the tag doesn't say "LSD" So I'm assuming the front is also open? When I tried turning one wheel on the front the other one didn't move so?? Any brand of oil do you guys recommend in the diff's? Thanks for your help!