Hendrik

"Hot ambient" , above 35 degrees celcius , in Brazil not very hot. I think it helped to circulate and clean. It is only a partly change , so after 3 times a change of 5 liters , more or less 90% ot the total 8 liters are changed. Hope it stays like this , but I have seen in posts that people also had quite an improvement after cleaning the internal fillter , that is still to do for me

I have the same problem , however it is improving. I changed 3 times the fluid (every time 5 liters) and made a trip of about 1000 miles at hot ambient. The delay is at cold (after a night sleep) nearly zero , at working temperature nearly zero as well; Only in between the 2 situations it is (sometimes) 2 to 3 seconds. Nipper told me that the seals are gone , but I hope that it will stay like it is.......Some people advice `Lucas ATF fix` , from their own experience , in the same situation , as a last ressort I would do it as well (if I could find it im Brazil.... (Impreza 1800 , 1993 , AWD , 4EAT)

sorry for the delay , There where more things wrong , in the meantime. The former owner is not the honest man on earth......... Anyway . I did a second flush , this time 4 liters came out the tranny , not this time like with `water` fluidity , like the first time , but more like real tranny oil. (there was never a cooling liquid mix) The behaveour in much better , now it happens only 1 out of 20 times (the delay when putting into D from N) and only halfway cold and hot temperature of the tranny. Cold is ok , warm as well. But my experience is just about 100 Km , town driving , so might change in the comming weeks. Als other actions are without any problem , smooth shifting ,power and manual modes work fine. If I continue driving like this , and the delay happens again , is it unwise to make big trips like 1000 miles ? Any tread ot danger ? Thanks for your help . nice to have some help in the middle of the dessert !

OK , that is an easy one. Will do it. But the former owner told me that he , quite recently did a flush..And the oil really looks and smells new.... And then : "Yes but you wont like it....." , I can stand the truth , better to know what could be wrong , then have doubts........ Just tell me........ Thanks

Automatic transmission , 4 speed , elctronically controlled. There is some strange behaveour if the normal temperature is reached , after about 15 minutes drive . It seems to happen more often if the engine is still at a higher temperature. Putting into D (from N) , takes about 2 seconds before it really starts to take off....If I first put it transitional in R or 3 , no problem This happens 1 out of 3 times , the 2 other times , no problem If the car is cold (in the morning) no problems at all. The oil seems fresh , nice red color and no burning smell , level is ok. Anybody knows what this could be ?

Thanks to all , It certainly helps.........

Thank you , most of the things you told me are known to me..... But stays open : WHEN to put it in neutral . In a stop (trafic light) for 3 minutes ot 3 seconds or never ? Seems stupid this question , but I don`t know it............What is best for the car and gasoline use ? Then there is a `power` light . I see it only at starting of the engine , then it goes out , never lights up if I push the accelerator hard.... (the manual says , it should ) There also is an `economic` button , stil have to find out the saving(s) For me it seems that these last two functions are in one way or another related but again no explication or exemples... I know that most is just theory , saving gas with auto transmissions anyway is an ilusion...... Thanks...........

Had a 3 speed Leone 1986 automatic , Since 10 days a 1993 Impreza , 1.8 and 4 speed auto transmission. The user manual gives very little explination , WHEN to put it in neutral . In a stop for 3 minutes ot 3 seconds or never ? Seems stupid this question , but I don`t know it............What is best for the car and gasoline use ? Then there is a `power` light . I see it only at starting of the engine , then it goes out , never lights up if I push the accelerator hard.... (the manual says , it should ) There also is an `economic` button , stil have to find out the saving(s) For me it seems that these last two functions are in one way or another related but again no explication or exemples... Last . there is a `manual` switch . should lock the 2e or 3e speed , good for icy conditions ? Not so much used in Brazil.... Any other tips for the 4 speed auto transmission ? Thanks for any input !

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38952

I am an elctronic engineer , but even so you need to know the ins and outs of the circuits. I have a FSM for an 88 model and also earlier ones : not for 86..... It is a bit complicated as some of the switching is done at ground level and some at +12 volt. I still doubt if it is the switch. Any way , in this country a Subaru is like an elephant in Alaska..... Parts : a dificult story , junk yards do not have them. I believe to be able to fix it , if I have the right docs.....

In my (Japan made )wagon 1986 , 4wd , turbo , the light switch is combined with the parking light switch , and the inner axe has the dimmer function for the (digital) dashboard. See picture..... The high/low beam selection is with a separate up/down switch under the steer. Inside the housing of the switch are a lot of electronic components. The dimmer function no longer works , always on maximum , turning the inner knob does nothing anymore. And the "Illumination "fuse always burns out... All the lights work fine........ I did not find documentation for this switch , anyboy can help me ?

Take out the startmotor , and put in the teeth some breaker bar.

I had the same with my 1986 turbo , after I cleaned (was competely seized and dirty) the PCV valve , now starts fine at every temperature.

Try first the stationairy adjustment : looking from the front it is at the right side at the rear of the alu cover with turbo inscription. Is it a L series ?

Silica gel "filter" Detachable for easy clean out. Only have about 250 miles on it so far. It has seemed to fix the smoking on long right handers tho. Very nice setup ! Just one question : Is the silicagel filter in full flow , or just somewhere in the outgoing flow , without completely taken the gas flow ?

With a turbo , what happened in case of boost ? The the pression in the intake is very positive and no longer negative http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8656&sort=1&cat=all&page=1

Thank you for the pictures , the mpfi version I only found later. Found the PCV valve , was completely seized and full of dirt , in the connecting hose 5 cm of water ! One night in a solvent and it works now. Seen the dirt and water , a condenser make certainly sense.........even if no drop of gasoline is saved. Took a jam-jar , soldered 2 brass pieces of tube (different length) in the lid. One goes nearly to the bottom , the other just below the lid. Steelwool in between. Two pictures enclosed. Wit a turbo , what happened in case of boost ? The the pression in the intake is very positive and no longer negative.........

Yes , I know this picture , but it not my case. Mine is EA82T and I even could not find yet where the PCV valve is located.... Haynes does nor help at all and without the right '86 FSM I am lost totally. If somebody could make a drawing or picture from his/her MPFSI turbo hoses for the crankcase gases ? And where to put the condenser ?

A very interesting story you initiated..... A similar , but much simpler device was build in Lada's in the sixties. Just steelwool in the rubber hose from crankcase to carburator , to be regulary cleaned at oil change interval. Just amazing that Subaru did not build in already such a "condensator" device it is normally a sophisticated car. A question to everybody involved in this great idea : For my Subaru (1986 MPFI , turbo , Wagon , 110.000 Km) , each cilinder has it own crankcase outlet , they are both outputs and no one input and one output as eg. is explained in the Haynes manual un page 1-27. In that case the passenger side would have been clean and the driver side full of dirty oil. Yesterday I dismounted the hoses , both are full of dirt. There are many more hoses and connections , directly after the MAF in the big rubber air intake boot and elsewhere. SOMEBODY know where I have to apply such a condensator ? Any input is welcome............

For my 1986 4Wd turbo wagon automatic , the : Haynes manual was/is 80 % worthwhile , 20 % worthless Chilton 60 % worthwhile , 40 % worthless Try also : http://www.ausubaru.com/main There you find some scans from original subaru manuals , off course with the steering wheel on the wrong side ....

Mesure the resistance of the ignition switch and read : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38952

look at : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38952 success !

I had the same problem : about 11 volt was arriving at the bulbs instead of the total 14.3 volt of the battery. The 3.3 volt difference was lost in :wiring . switches and so on. Solution : each bulb has now 3 relays , one for dim , one for high beam and one for the positive voltage. (the lights are switched toward ground) Extra thick wires and extra fuses to the positive battery terminal as well. So 6 relays , thick copper wire , two 20 amp fuses and half a day work....

Look at : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38952