Lang

Thanks again, took about two hours all up, one thing, if the hub is a little tight, I found to put the wheel back on with a couple of nuts and give it a good shakeing, that fixed that, with the car secure on stands ,of course..:)The disc bolts were some tight, some not, I put them all back on at 45 ft, lbs., and all's well. Lang

Checked in this manual I have and have no torque figure for the disc bolts, any ideas,(untill the elbow cracks!)and do you put a drop of lock-tite on them there bolts?..

Good advise as usual from the ones who know, many thanks, will attend to on Saturday.....

G'day, am putting new discs on my EA82 L wagon in a couple of days time, looks straight foreward, any hints before I start, am going by what manual says but have been caught before.. Thanks Lang

Ground a socket as per Bratwurst, then use a short extension and my Makita variable speed drill, run 'em in slowly , sometimes need a sharp tap to start, and save wrist for beer lifting...

Only under slow brakeing, well, under 50klmph, it really shudders, have been told, well everything checks out OK, so they don't know! Thanks for response, I will track this down, feel it may be something that I will have to rectify myself, the vehicle suffers from continous suffering a week over OK to bad gravel roads( oxymoron, roads) and at 660,000 klm's I certainly can't complain, I have kept the poor buggar on the road day in day out and will be sad to see when I have to replace it. Previous vehicles have lasted between three and five years subject to the same conditions, the EA82 will have been doing the job for fifteen when it retires... As an addition, when I give it to a workshop to get a repair because of time restraint or where equipment I don't have is involved I always have to do a check over the vehicle to retify a bit here and there , however this has been only on a few occasions, the other times the EA is done by myself, and by that I feel the vehicle contributes a lot more than I do..........

Well, I didnt want to go through the lot, suffice to say,rims and tyres, hubs, bearings , full struts includeing bearings, knuckles, discs, pads, rack and pinion, steering uni's, shaft's, sway bar bushes, various torsion rubbers, lower ball joints, checked mounts and etc, etc.. Thats why I'm at a loss....

Sorry, it's an EA82 Wagon, manual steer 5 speed...

Need some help, this is sending me around the bend, get brake shudder below 30 mph (say 50kph) through steering wheel, it's fine above that, now I have replaced everything in the front end, and I mean everything, from hub to hub, however I suspect that one DOJ may be suspect(new unit), had the experts look for cause, they can't find, rotated wheels and swapped tyres, I have new and others to test, but as now all the front has been renewed , suggestions where to look thats not obvious would be a great help. I still don't like the L/H side DOJ, has some movement, but not a great deal. This is ongoing problem for a while now and each time I renew an item, it helps a little then back to it's self within a couple of thousand kilometers or so, and I do a lot of KLms. Seems ther is something we are not looking at, something not so obvious.. Any hints?...

mc, the thing is, as you have spent so much time and money trying to fix so far without avail, a s/h pump may point out the cure, then spend the money on a new one... and keep whatever as a spare, I keep one in vehicle at all times. Let us know how things work out, for all our benifits.

Next time it plays up,stop motor (if it hasn't allready) lift the top of your air cleaner and depress the throttle and you will probably see that no fuel is being put in by the accelerator pump. Sun Spares in Qld. are the place to go for your bits.. I think, but dont quote me, s/h pumps were , are about $30-00 or less and they are honourable to deal with... Do a Google for their web.. As I said , has happened twice to me in the winter and that was the cause...lang

mcs, twice this has happened to mine (EA82 Carb.) in the last fourteen years, first time nealy drove me nuts untill I replaced the fuel pump, s/h, cheap, then only last week started again as soon as the cooler mornings arrived so as a test I swaped carbys, no fix, then swaped fuel pumps again, problem fixed. The problem is is that it starts fine then runs out of fuel within a few minutes or less, then picks up and goes OK from there on in. I would definately get a s/h fuel pump and give it a whirl.. Lang

If they are like my EA82, the first time I replaced them those top bolts had some sort of LocTite on them, from factory and were TIGHT. Also the lower bolts undo from the diff side, the wheel side is welded onto the mount..Lang

I guess that if it can it wiil happened, after I took the air con condenser and assorted bits out , reassembled the whole thing, ran the fan as part of the test to make sure all the electricals were ok, a bit of debri, a small stick like object lodged in the hot/cold flap and jammed it on cold only. Any how, the long job yesterday, about six hours, was done today in less than three, cant beat experience, all is now well, even fitted new radio in that time, so I'm happy. Small tip, when you pull the dash back, hang it with a bit of wire or such from the hinge on the passenger side sun visor, hope thats what you call them, and you can play away very happy, well sort off. Also the seat bolts that go in twords the transmission tunnel are difficult, I snapped one due to dirt on the thread, however such is life. Again , thanks for you scroll on the job. Not as daunting as appears.. Take care Lang

My thanks to Paul for his guide, appears daunting however once you get into it , it's still a pain job but can be done. My problem is haveing replaced the heater core I still have no heat.. I have hot fluid (radiator water) in and out of the heater core, I took out the air con, condenser and replaced the box, sealed to duct fan flow, all appears to be working ok, vacuum hoses etc;, the two flaps in the heater box operating ok, but for the life of me I cant work out why the heat is not being directed , or maybe flow from fan , through heater core. Well, as it took about six hours today , start to finish, Ill do it all again tomorrow, will have it down to about three I think, if anyone can point me as to what I may be missing or have bungled , much thanks, I just cant see why no heat..

Boogers, after much fiddleing ,as I had an "expert" try to find an idle problem that I found myself, my fast idle screw took about eight turns clockwise to get fast idle under choke, then it only seems to need a turn anti or clockwise to adjust the fast idle. So may I suggest you back off the fast idle adjustment maybe one turn as a start ie;anti clockwise, and work from there, seems you have to adjust then find result when next cold start. It caught me out as I had turned that adjustment several turns with no result, then it came good after what I thought was an extreme adjustment.. See if you can hold the throttle closed while you turn the adjustment, you get to it from the rear of the carby, below where the throttle cable attaches to the carby. Hope that helps.. lang

Need a bit of advise from the experts, on the EA82 Hitachi carb how do you adjust the fast idle when motor cold. Mine starts straight up then drops to slow idle whereas before it would fast idle then gradually drop down as the motor warmed up. Have checked the choke butterfly and is fully closed when cold and gradually opens as warm up progresses but no fast idle. Have run choke adjustment back and foreward to no avail.. Any hints would be great before it gets winter here..

On our EA82s the washer behind the castle nut is slightly convex and is stamped OUT , mind you the mechanics, so called, get it right less than half the time and if its reassembled with the OUT stamp twords the hub then shortly you have a loose nut and possible bearing failure. Always check..Cheers Lang..

Got a replacement heater core for my '91 L series EA82 Wagon and before I pull the dash some advise would be appreciated, the core on the one just purchased has inlet/ outlets at 90degrees and and 180 degrees, guess that would be one faceing fire wall and one t'words floor, both on same side of core, whereas the only guide I have in my manual is for an '86 that shows inlet/ outlets at opposite ends of core. So I guess the question is, anyone pulled the core on a '91 Wagon and doe's it sound right. The core has plastic ends that I am told split, thus causeing a common leak problem.. Just a pain to get to, so want to get it right first go. (If it's the split plastic, perhaps Devcon would result in a spare at some future time).. Many thanks.. Lang

Ah, the terminology, called here get them machined, thought you ment re-locateing to correct minor run out.. Will take note....Lang

Hi Blackstone, could you explain to me "turning the rotators", I guess you may mean swap left to right, will this help correct minor run out? . thanks..Lang

Thanks Scooter, as I thought, bugger of a job. Have made a puller for the steering wheel so may use it for more room and also ditch the air con unit as its not working and dont need it, thanks again. lang

Scooter, were there any short cuts to getting the heater out, I have a minor leak that I need to fix , looks like a lot of work for a small job, according to the manual.. Lang

Bob, just to clarify, the vehicle is subject to six hours a day of 2nd 3rd gear work mostly, mixed in with some low range albeit not much, a lot of time idleing and in valleys and a lot of hills , all slow work with constant stopping. The radiator has been re-cored, all other things checked out, it never boils however gets to the hot side of things on occasions, and the query was this, if the air-con radiator is there, why not utilise it in summer under the conditions I subject the vehicle to ?..And of course throw the question out as to maybe be cautious as to why not! Regards Lang

As i do a lot of slow running in my EA82 Wagon and in my climate it gets very hot ambient temperature wise, the air con has not worked for ten years or so and really dont need it, am thinking of putting coolant hoses into the air con. radiator that fits in front of the coolant radiator to give the extra help to keep the motor temperature down. Was thinking about removeing the air con; radiator however thought I may hook both up and in winter if needed semi-blind the radiators. Any opinions?...