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kharris12

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Everything posted by kharris12

  1. kharris12
    Update: tested the coil and the primary was a little out of spec so I replaced it. Checked every ground wire I could find and cleaned it up (nothing looked too bad). Also every connector has been double checked and cleaned. I had a code 35 purge valve but I don't think it's the source of my problem After a test drive it did sputter again. Not as bad as in the video, but it seems the problem is still there.
  2. kharris12
    I did kill the car at the end, It started smelling really strong of gas I really don't want to burn my garage down But that is what it does while driving and then it dies completely. The clicking in the video was what I was referring to in previous posts. It's coming from somewhere under the driver-side dash. After doing some searching on USMB I've seen a couple mentions of the ignitor AKA power transistor, AKA ignition amplifier. I think it allows the ECM to control the coil. I can't find this part for sale. Has anybody had experience testing this part? any clue where I could get a replacement if it is in fact bad? Thanks!
  3. kharris12
    I'm in the process of trouble shooting electrical (kinda hard after work 6 12hr days in a row) here's a quick video to show exactly what it's doing
  4. kharris12
    Well, I wiggled every wire I could get my hands on while the engine is running and could not replicate the problem. Could this be a stuck ignition relay???? I'm pretty sure it's not emissions related (MAF, O2, ETC) since I'm not getting a check engine lamp.
  5. kharris12
    Thanks for the input guys! I don't think it's a loose battery cable. After she dies I still have power (radio, headlights, etc work). It will turn over but acts like there's no spark?? Sorry, that should have been in the original post.
  6. kharris12
    Hello all! I was hoping some one out there has had this problem and could point me in the right direction. While driving my 1990 loyale non-turbo ea82 5 speed, randomly it will sputter and die. When it happens, I hear some relays clicking under the driver side dashboard and all of my warning light come on. I've discovered the only way to get it running again is to pulled the battery cable for a few seconds and everything is back to normal. I've got a new ignition coil and distributer. The fuel pump appears to be doing its job, however I have not done a pressure test. It will go months without dying and then it will die every morning on my commute. I can't find a pattern here! Thanks! -K
  7. kharris12
    Sorry I've taken so long to get back here but here is what I've found. No ECU codes. If I pull the battery cable and let the car sit for a minute it will fire up and get me home. I did notice that my CEL does not come on when my key is in the on position (Before I start the car). Bad ECU???
  8. kharris12
    Sounds like it's under the dash. I'll do some checking on relays. I'll double check the rotor screw as well but I'm fairly certain that is locked down pretty tight....
  9. kharris12
    Thanks for the reply Len Dawg! I replace the tensioners when I did belts. Went out tonight to start my troubleshooting and it fired right up! Got it up to temp and check timing and everything was pretty spot on. Pulled plugs and they look good, maybe a touch on the hot/lean side but well with in the norm. I'm kinda stumped and now I don't trust my subie...
  10. kharris12
    Hello all, First off I've got a 1990 loyale, base ea82 EFI, 5 speed Sooooooooo about 3 months ago I notice a pretty dramatic drop in my fuel economy 30-32mpg down to 18-20mpg. Around the same time my subie started dying around the same spot on my commute home (13min into my 18min commute). When it died I'd here a clicking sound and poof! engine off. While rolling I press in the clutch, turn it over, it starts and I'm on my way. Well yesterday I drive to church and after service I go to start my car and I can't get it to fire. It turns over, and every now and again a few cylinders will light but its only a few sputters and gone. I popped off a fuel line and turned it over and it looks like the fuel pump is happy. Tonight I'll pull the plugs and see if I can get a couple clues as to what is going on but I'm pretty stumped..... The plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, battery, and timing belts are all pretty new (<9 months). Any ideas??? I kinda wonder about the MAF but I don't think that would come into play until after the vehicle is warmed and the ECU kicks in. Thanks! -K
  11. kharris12
    I'm having trouble getting all of the cylinders to fire..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152603-ea82-rebuild-cylinder-2-and-4-dont-fire/?p=1277906
  12. kharris12
    Hello all. After doing a full engine out reseal and clutch replacement on my 1990 loyale I'm having trouble getting my motor dialed in. It fires up and runs but it's VERY rough at low rpm. The timing is not dead on but pretty close. When I pull the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3 they look a little sooty but not bad. Cylinder 4 is very sooty/wet and show now signs of spark. Cylinder 2 is sooty and doesn't show much sign of spark. While the motors running I can pull the number 4 wire from the disty and it makes no difference. If I pull the number 2 wire the rpm fluctuates slightly but not much of a change. If i pull wires 1 or 3 the engine dies. ADDITIONAL INFO: After running for a bit the passenger side of the engine is hot to the touch while the driver side is cool. After the engine had been running a while the exhaust was glowing red. (maybe unburned fuel from cylinders 2 and 4??) Here's what I've tried: -Swapping spark plugs -new wires -new coil -new cap and rotor Any ideas? I'm going to the parts store here in spokane to rent a compression tester. but I'm pretty stumped Thanks! -K
  13. kharris12
    Well I finally got into the front of the engine... It turned out to be the smooth pully on the driver side. However, it wasn't bad bearings. The spring that hooks from the pulley to the engine block was rubbing on the back of the pulley! I flipped the spring around, threw the belts back on and bam! No squeal! Now, all I need to do is get everything dial in and start working on my rust spot and getting the body prepped for paint Thanks everybody! -K
  14. kharris12
    its one of the smooth tensioners
  15. kharris12
    Thank you all for the replies! It turned out to be 180 out at the distributer. flipped it around and everything fired right up! Another question: I installed a new timing belt kit (belt, tensioners, etc.) the pulley on the right side is giving off a very loud squeal. As anybody had this happen? Am I okay to just run it since its brand new or replace it?
  16. kharris12
    Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!!
  17. kharris12
    Sorry its taken so long to post but here is what I found. The new pressure pate fingers don't protrude as far up the spindle and the old PP. In the end all I had to do was a simple clutch cable adjustment (doh!) Thank you everybody for the help!
  18. kharris12
    I did put a new throw bearing on. It was hard to tell if the friction discs matched since the origional was pretty well destroyed.... Would the wrong friction disc be thicker?
  19. kharris12
    Hello again, I've now drop my shiny rebuilt ea82 back into my loyale but I've got a concern... I haven't started the engine yet but I noticed that pushing in the clutch does nothing, and it feels pretty loose. If I put the trans in first and push the clutch in I should be able to push the car foward right?? As I understand it the loyale doesn't have a master and slave cylinder its just a cable straight to clutch release lever. I see the lever move but It doesnt feel like it's engaging the pressure plate? Any wisdom would be helpful.... Thanks!
  20. kharris12
    Got It! Thanks for the help everybody! I found some matching diameter abs pipe and got it in flush. Also, I almost learned the hard way that the haynes manual randomly decided to switch to ft-in on the flywheel torue specs. Weird.... Hopefully tomorrow I'll drop this into my 1990 loyale 5speed and I'll be off and running!
  21. kharris12
    Wow you guys are fast! I'm going to try the abs pipe technique tonight. As I understand it the seal should be flush right?
  22. kharris12
    Hello Everybody! I'm almost done with a 3 month long project resealing my 1990 loyale's EA82 (head gaskets and the works!) I think I've used this forum more than my haynes manual, you guys rock! Right now I'm a little stuck trying to get my rear main seal in. Does anybody have a little wisdom as to how to get this seal to seat straight??? I'm on seal #3 beacause I get close and then I pops in crooked and I destroy it geting it back out any tips would be appreciated Thanks!
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