LPGsuperchargedBrumby

it could be done....except that your ignition timing will be a bit far advanced for petrol if your using dizzy based ignition...ecu controlled ignition will compensate on the fly based on the knock sensor. you would be better off adjusting your propane A/F under boost rather than putting a lower octane fuel into the mix...but thats just my $0.02 minus tax

.....Sir, please step AWAY from the intercooler and put the ignition keys down....... How did you wire it up so you only got spark without the ecu going on strike because the fuel injectors weren't returning the correct signal? or did you you run injector emulators?

make sure your regulator is speced to rise rate with boost.... or if not make sure that you can compensate on the fuel map......i had to diagnose a EFI LPG problem that would make the car bog and die under boost, ran like a monster without boost....turned out to be when on boost the regulator pressure didn't rise with manifold pressure and there was no way of compensating in the fuel map....lol budget NA injection system fitted to a turbo motor= fail

i had the same problem when i swapped to the 5spd....and spaced the starter out with as large diameter washers as i could fit......if the engine is cold and trying to drag the starter along with it, it will want to die and not idle

The EA81 runs fine on LPG....i know because i drove my one 25'000 miles after i converted before it had a hyro lifter failure that spalled the cam....i had the timing set way advanced....like i ran out of movement on the dizzy adjustment slot and ran it at that. it ran really well....well enough that i was pretty gutted at the time that i had to swap it out for an EJ

It might....but if it has a fixed venturi mixer (as against a variable venturi like an IMPCO) it will probably run like a dog at idle if it runs at all at idle....same result as if you put too big of a carb on a 1.8....which is what your doing

Moral of the story anywhere in the world....don't short change the tax man...you will get porked where it just ain't right....

I have my EJ swapped Brumby running dedicated LPG and have done now for 7 years....i swapped it to LPG when it still had the EA81 in it(supercharged it for a bit until i got sprung by Mr Plod), did about 25'000 miles before it spalled the cam (have suspicions about the oil i was running being the cause) swapped in a EJ18 (really high mileage= cheap, needed the vehicle going 'now') carb and dizzy motor ran that for 10'000 miles until it dropped a valve then swapped in the good EJ22 9aslo carb and dizzy) thats in it now....that has over 100'000 miles on it. one thing if you are going to convert it to LPG is to use a variable venturi like an IMPCO....i started with a fixed venturi because i didn't know better then swapped to a variable (BLOS)...the difference is unbelivable the impco CA 55 mixer is bang on the right size(hp rating) for a EA81....altho you will not be able to mount it on top of the factory carb and still close the bonnet. i fitted it all myself....lol i started out not knowing anything much about LPG tuning and now i get the occasional phone call (from the installers where i get the annual safety check thats needed here done) saying "um...can you come have a look at this?" also have a 12.5-1 compo EJ25 with SOHC EJ20 heads and delta torque cams that i need to finish putting together....that should run well on LPG

i'm not too far from nobangmycar so my costs are similar except that i have to get a LPG system check every year as well All in NZ dollars..... Registration $280 per year Insurance $440 per year Wof $50 6 monthly LPG cert $50 per year LPG fuel $1.15 per liter =$3.39USD per US gallon

can you not do flip the diff over like is done on manual subaru transmissions for use in beetles and kombi's? Like this

how are you going to set up the rear brakes?....i looked at doing a legacy twin turbo complete swap (everything from the radiator down to the wheel nuts) into my brumby at one point....the main problem was the rear hubs/brakes....i ended up going to doing the XT6 conversion, with good pads on it is all the brakes i could ever want in something as light as a brumby.....lol never did get round to the turbo motor swap, as its my DD i went EJ22 instead....the EJ20TT is still safely tucked away for 'later'

lol and the since Mega-upload case started FBI wonders why more americans keep getting beaten up here lately

check your rubber radius rod bushes and the bolts that connect the radius rod to the a-arm....if the rubber bushes have worn or the bolts are loose it will allow the A-arm to move forwards and backwards.

you could sell a few bottles of bundy....but only as parts cleaner.....even americans wouldn't put up with drinking that stuff

thats cos its a 30 year old design that is a 2 valve 1800....lol lower your expectations a little and you won't be so disappointed:-p

lol what redline?....its in a brumby/brat with no tacho.....i have a 12000 rpm VDO rev counter for testing but its not fitted for everyday driving

the EA82's i drove got changed at 4 to 5k unless i was late for something or just fanging it....then was 7k was the order of the day with a dizzy and LPG carb the EJ22 will rev to 9300 in 1st and 2nd:burnout:....my fuel supply won't support 3rd gear at those revs, she bogs from lack of fuel before 9000rpm...valve bounce at 9800 no load

i've had a rear disc setup from a EA82 on my brumby and now have a XT6 setup on it....neither have had a proportion valve and i have never had a problem with the rears locking up prematurely

the "snow performance" pump is a Shurflo type pump that sounds like it has had the pressure switch removed, meaning they stall out at about 220 psi...you might not want to hold your motor on boost for more that a minute or so at a stretch hmmm i wonder what has been done to the valves to cause it to pass water straight thru. i install these sort of pumps for work every few months and have never hit one that passes water straight thru....i will have a look at the 'books of words' we have for them at work to see what it says

why do you need a check valve? you have a shurflow diaphragm pump that is a positive shutoff valve....no power, no flow of water hmmm.....thats all assuming that the check valve you mentioned is actually for the water system

someone else that actually takes water injection seriously....nice....and you found the bit that most people fall down on....a pressure switch that is low enough pressure to be of any use. my old water injection was alot more basic than what you have.....i had a stainless steel 9kg lpg bottle with a 2 inch stand pipe welded on the top that had a 1/2" hose run off the top it that ran to the downstream side of the blower (this pressurised the tank) i then had a small sump welded on the bottom of the tank that had a 1/4" pneumatic line run off through a 0.5 psi check valve to the intake side of the blower where i had a fitting that allowed me have the water metered through a (mikuni i think it was) bike carb jet that let me play with different sizes to get it set right. when the dump/BOV closed i had boost and i had water i was running a blow thru lpg carb so that set up worked pretty well...the only problem i had with it was in the winter frost when the water line would freeze up....but when it was that cold i didn't really need the water injection anyway as going like hell with ice on the road is a bad idea

Nice one!......you will be glad to have a warm cab in the mornings....i was up in inland NQ and the 'Territory for fair while and was fully ready for the heat..... no prick told me that it gets down to -10 at night in the winter.... i'm from the south of NZ which ain't the warmest place on earth and i damn near froze every night until i could make 800k dash to town to get my good sleeping bag and other gear.

yeah it will work no worrys

it would be worth once you get into it, to move the diverter gate by hand a few times just to make sure that its not catching a piece of crud/leaf etc.....i think (IIRCR) that you can do that without removing that whole heater from the dash if thats all free and ok, then the culprit is probably the diaphragm pot that actuates it

i have a 92' brumby that did the same thing a couple of years back......the heater control in the dash controls an air divert-er valve that swings one way for hot and the other way for cold or any place in between for a .....kinda like a mini sheep or cattle drafting gate. your problems will be probably either be in the vacuum hose that powers it or a stuck or ripped diaphragm. Callum PS....its a prat to get to as well....have fun:burnout: