LPGsuperchargedBrumby

a bit of boost on that engine make a fair bit of difference....thinking back to how the power came on in my old blown motor the power increase was most noticeable at about the same speeds your talking about, between 50 and 100k. one thing i always found a bit of a giggle was being able to light up all 4 wheels while crossed up on gravel whenever i wanted...it defiantly was needed on the drive home from work sometimes lol. if you up the boost watch real carefully for detonation above about 7 psi...adding water injection will let you go to about 9 or 10 pound before you hit det' issues cheers for putting the dyno chart up, i wish i could have dyno'd my ute, it would have been nice to know what it was putting out

killed while/for helping someone else.....what the hell has the world come to?? that suxs dude, it sounds like the world lost a good man

my camera persists in taking 2.3mb pic and i don't know how to resize them so i can put them on here

if you are overhauling the engine anyway, and trying to get more power, it might be worth have a talk to Delta Cams about getting the cam ground to up the power in the rev band where you most need it.... i assume that being attached to a prop means that you will be running quite high rpms thru a belt redrive like a number of EA81 equipped light sport aircraft so a cam that is suited to that would help

YAY......another funky fuel topic lol as my name says i run LPG/Propane as a straight conversion for the last 7 years(243'000km) with no dual fuel ability....as i converted the my Brumby myself(a BIG "no no" here lol) i feel somewhat qualified to yap a bit about LPG as a fuel. first of all i wouldn't go back to petrol if i could avoid it....LPG is half the price of petrol... and 100 octane and i'm getting 28mpg which equals 56 mpg if i was paying for petrol second....get quality parts....if your in the US you should have a serious look at IMPCO gear....its good quality proven gear....and its cheap as chips compared to nearly all the European gear....my only complaint with it is that it isn't as easily adjustable as the regulator and mixer that i have....however impco stuff has a larger range of mixers to fit all different engine sizes so doesn't need as much adjustment range. http://www.impco.ws/impco-catalogs.asp chose the low res version if you don't want to wait all week for it to download a variable venturi mixer is a must have it makes it drive like a fuel injected motor....a fixed venturi mixer can have a little hole just off idle that is irritating in town driving i run a Lovato boost compensating regulator and a BLOS variable venturi mixer fitted to my EJ22 throttle body...its a good setup and has never let me down on the mechanical side..... i did have a failure of the safety cutout relay (it will only allow the regulator to supply fuel while the coil is firing) however i had already run a line up from the now unused fuel pump power supply that only supplys power when the coil is firing) so wasn't stranded in the middle of nowhere one thing with LPG tank sizes...bigger really is better...i have 75 liters...i am in the process of organising a 120 liter tank....LPG pumps aren't as widespread as normal fuel so more range is good. Oh..... and LPG and CNG both tune Air/Fuel ratio backwards to petrol.... LPG will be more likely to ping/detonate if it is running rich...lean it out a bit and the pinging will go away....however if you are having pinging issue's with a stock engine you have the ignition way too far advanced i should shut up now...i'm starting to sound like the LPG nerd on a roll:brow: cheers Callum

i don't know why more people don't run on LPG here....its literally under half the price of petrol....and i'm running nearly the same mpg on LPG that i was on petrol.....28 mpg (real gallons, not US/short gallons). conversion costs a little bit but is soon made back at the price difference between the two fuel

EWWW.....i have standards....and i'm damned if i'm going to stoop to that level LMAO

nice workmanship just one thing about your setup....if you run a SC12 or SC14 in draw through from a carb the petrol can cause the teflon coating on the supercharger lobes to come off after a few thousand miles....which causes you problems i ran my old supercharged EA81 on LPG so i didn't have this problem when i was running draw through however i was shown the results of this by a VW nut friend of mine that had two SC12 failure's from this when i was building my supercharged setup...not pretty lol your blow off valve might want to be turned 180 deg so its not blowing fuel air mix over your coil and under your seat

naa no progress since i got my cams back.... GF quit her job (thank heavens, cos i wanted to go to her work and bang her two bosses heads together for being total prats to all their staff) and has gone back to studying so spare money to build motors is in a bit of short supply until she has qualified....which is in about 6 weeks YAY!!!. then i can get on with it

the more angle you run your cv's at, the shorter their life will be ....having said that i wouldn't think that within the limits of the factory adjustments you will have a noticeable decrease in cv life....i'd be sus' about your cv being a dud from new/reman etc as for the cotter pin eating....do you have the hardened factory washers on under the nut?....i replaced the factory washers when i did wheel bearing one time and had issues with the nuts coming lose and in my case bending but not breaking the cotter pins. once i swapped the normal washers for hardened ones all issues went away

check that the DOHC ej will fit between the frame rails.... i know the EA82 chassis is wider than the EA81 ones i'm used to but the DOHC donk is a pretty wide motor across the belt covers lol a SOHC EJ will drop in like its meant to be there

i had my carby'd EJ22 do a similar thing to me a couple of years ago....turned out it was the plug leads breaking down under load...it would run fine until i got to around 10" manifold vac... any lower than that sounded like a battle was happening up front. it drove me nuts trying to find what was wrong as the cap rotor coil leads and plugs where all only about 3 months old at the time....'newish' bum leads aren't the kind of thing i had struck before

i've turned down $10,000 NZD before.....i know my brumby up down and backwards....if i got another vehicle i would have to learn that all over again and i'd never get another ride that is so much....me

loose wire that grounds the ignition when you turn that way?

i got my cams back from Delta Cams today...hopefully when work settles down again (we have been running around like headless chickens trying get on top of a large backlog of repair work) i will be able to get my motor together. altho i still have few bits to get like cam seals and the likes lol its getting closer to being done

depending on what type of pump you put on you may need a a fuel pressure regulator that returns fuel to the tank to control fuel pressure. some positive displacement pump can not be deadheaded with a fuel pressure regulator that just restricts fuel flow to control pressure. a solenoid type fuel pump (the type that makes a tick tick tick noise when its pumping) can be used without a pressure regulator if you chose one that pumps to the right pressure for your car. Welcome....lol its nice to see another carburated EJ on the board

a little bit too much oil won't hurt things....clicking under load doesn't sound like a gearbox problem, they normally are a grumbling or whining noise if you have issues there without having chipped or collapsed a gear. clicking is normally cv's or DOJ's which is odd cos you have new ones by the sound of it

whats the capacity per rev on that blower....it looks pretty large..... if you have too big a supercharger you will need to spin it too slow, remembering that a lobe blower like that puts out pulses of air on the discharge side.... if you have it geared slow you can end up with that the gap between the pulses ending up lining up with a cylinder intake stroke once every so many revs= poor running and a rather large motor shake for no apparent reason

ask around some of the local machining shops (the type that do lathe and milling work) they should know who has balancing equipment in the area. someone should have a balancer....a lot of shafts on industrial gear need balanced during repairs/maintenace

i used an SC12 off a toyota 4agze running blowthru configuration on my homemade carb running dedicated LPG/Propane. it went really well until 'the fuzz' caught me driving it without the correct paperwork for the modifications...i didn't get the fine from 'nam (which he was meant to give me) however i had 48hrs to get the vehicle 'returned to legal configuration' or i would get the fine

yeah you can play swapsies with the entire dizzy....you can't (to my knowlege) swap parts between nippo and hitachi dizzys

i was having a think about your mileage problems(yes...i was bored at work) and remembered my father once said he had a similar issue with a BSA Lighting motorcycle back in the late 60's....he had checked, set and replaced everything he could....turned out one of his cork filled brass carb floats had become fuel logged....it hadn't sunk but it sat lower in the fuel....and raised the fuel level in the carb fuel bowl without flooding fuel out the overflow. his symptoms mirrored yours....idled nicely, was a bit of a pig to start if it was still warm/hot and it made a beeline for every fuel station in sight so it might be worth checking your float height and float conditions

air filter clogged maybe?

the EA81 is slighty longer stroke and will bolt in where a EA71 lives as long as the starter motor is in the same place on both motors....early versions of both motors have the starter mounted centerline top, later ones had it mounted off to one side.

......and i was being a good boy and not making jokes about people that have STD's