LPGsuperchargedBrumby

um....does that mean that the EJ18 carby manifold that is bolted on my EJ22 heads shouldn't be there?....as far as i know its only really differences in stroke length that mess with the ability to swap manifolds between engines of the same series....certainly on EJ series anyway

um hate break the news to ya...but your going to have to get some new stickers to replace the brat stickers....cos you have a Brumby... LHD = Brat RHD = Brumby (Brumbys are better anyway...not so far to walk to get to the filler cap lmao) nice to see one on that side of the pond

hmmm interesting....i tried a Legacy strut top but it won't fit inside the Brumby strut tower might have to get a couple of EA82 ones and try them how well do they fit into the strut towers....and does it alter wheel camber?

i'm on the hunt for a set of EA81 strut tops to work with my Tein adjustable shocks.... i need a set of strut tops with bearings in them that would fit standard legacy/impreza struts...but in the two bolt configeration that will fit the EA81. anyone got any ideas? strut tops off something else that might fit? does anyone know where to get the center bearing carrier/plate of an adjustable strut top mount...i think i would be able to make something if i could get hold of a couple of them

first time i've seen it i don't think it would be that heavy.....fiberglass bodywork would help

i really wish i had the money to buy this....but i spent it all on a 18 ton truck to build into a housetruck:rolleyes: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/Tull/auction-273197348.htm

i put the dowel hole in mine....i figger if they weren't needed subaru wouldn't have put them there in the first place

it was contacting when the suspension was at simultaneously at full suspension drop and at full lock...I.E up on a jackstands with the wheel cranked round to full lock. it didn't contact with the suspension at normal height...i.e wheels on ground and at full lock i have XT6 rod ends on it the get "certed" to be road-legal here it can't touch at any point....and steering gear touching things tends to be a bad idea at the best of times

if your using ea81 rod ends make sure you use 16 inch rims or bigger...the 15 inch factory alloys i'm running needed a 5mm spacer plate to prevent the rod ends hitting the rim at full suspension drop

don't know about swapping XT6 rod ends on to a power steering rack, they should thread on...but best way to find out would be to measure the length of a power steer rack and compare it to the length of a non power steering rack

it fits....its tight but there is one in my ute so they fit

i run 195/50r15 on legacy rims under my brumby (EJ22 FT4wd DR) on XT6 hubs...i find its lighter to steer than when i was running the stock wheels an 175/70R13's....guy that did my wheel alignment said it was because my wheel track center was about 20mm wider than with the stock rims an hubs while the steering is still pivoting at the same point as it used to

found what the is causing the noise i'm hearing when i hit bumps....the spring in the impreza strut is offset...the one on the old brumby strut is centered on the shock the offset on the imp spring is causeing it to hit the bottom edge of the strut tower i have a set of TEIN adjusty's that have a smaller spring diameter that should fix that problem

Lol thats alot neater than my underbonnet conversion....wish i could have got a proper LPG carb when i was doing my conversion...it is alot better looking than my homemade carb. nice job on the conversion....just out of curiosity what ignition timing are you running?...when i had my ea81 on LPG i was running so far advanced that i was off the timing marks on the flywheel

my brumby did that to me once....just before i first converted it to LPG....carb primary butterfly shaft was worn i found out once i pulled the carb off and could see it properly....full throttle in the middle of town isn't a whole heap of fun

i have a fuel air ratio gauge and a vacuum gauge mounted on the dash on each side of the raised bit that the instrument cluster sits in...lmao with the wires from the gauges running along the dash and out round the bottom of the windscreen pillar....WestCoast Kiwi style....rough as guts an twice as good...

i drilled an tapped the holes (10mm if i remember)...they were close but do-able i also drilled out the alignment pin holes so i would know at least i had the plate mounted right on the gearbox

my one running around town uses about 13 to 15 liters of LPG per 100k...depending on how i drive. and thats with the RX 'box with its tall gears so you might get a bit better economy with the Legacy box if it has better ratios in 1st-2nd-3rd plus you should use less than i do due me being on LPG an you on petrol

no you don't need a motor out of a manual car...the one i have in my Brumby/Brat is out of an auto. once you take the flexplate or clutch off there isn't difference as far as i know as for the ECU differences i would think an auto one could be made to work by making the ECU think its in neutral or park however i wouldn't know...i have a factory dizzy an LPG carb on my one

nice to see you have it going now....interesting idea for the gearbox crossmember....i might have to pinch that idea and do it for my one. hahaha you do realise that you have just made dunedin the EJ22 converted brumby capital of New Zealand well done man

yeah i'm thinking it must be the top of the strut....altho i'm not sure how it can make the noises i'm hearing but i'm basically out of other options of what it could be. and yeah i'm thinking the the steering geometry must be different on the EA81's...most people that have made comment on the tie rods hitting the rims seem to have been running EA82 platforms... maybe the EA82 being that little bit wider in the wheel track allows things to clear

new ones needed

well my wheels rubbed with the 15" factory Outback Wagon rims that i have on...and i have the tie rod ends on the right side...pretty hard to screw up considering they have LH & RH cast onto the top of them. one thing i have an ongoing issue with is a clunk in my front suspension somewhere...it only happens when i hit a "sharp bump"....like a small pothole....but it doesn't do it when i hit a "smoother bump"...like a pothole that has been patched but sagged/settled a bit. all bolts are tight so i don't understand whats making the noise...whatever is doing it doesn't affect steering or braking...although being on the brakes means you don't need as big a bump to get it to make the clunk the noise sounds like its coming from just in front of and just above my feet when i'm driving

the rear bleeder on the MC or the one of the ones on the rear end calipers? make sure the tube you are using to bleed it with is a tight fit over the nipple.... i thought i was getting alot of air out of a my system when i did the 4 stud rear disk swap....turned out i was getting air into the tube around the nipple end....combination of a oldish bleeding tube and a small nick in the nipple end caused me no end of trouble

i'm getting more pics of what i have done tomorrow morning when i go hunting for the noise in the RH suspension i didn't use the EA81 rod ends because they hit the rims even worse than the XT6 ones....and yep i have the rod ends on the correct sides