LPGsuperchargedBrumby

i ran acetone in my brumby before i swapped to LPG an also ran it in my GF's mitzy mirage.....got a very noticeable increase in mpg....however when i worked out the cost difference between what we saved in petrol and what the acetone cost it wasn't worth the hassel.....so i swapped the ute to gas

EJ18 runs an 89mm bore, not 92mmm.....

Sorry....all banking in Kenya has halted due to the protests....try a Nigerian check...

keep an eye on fleabay.....that the only place i've seen them

i used to tow my jetski everywhere with my Brumby and never had a problem.... apart from almost dieing of terminal bordom while crawling up any long steep hill that i encountered

my GF's hyundi excel would do the same thing when i lived in townsville...except it would dump fuel out thru the carbon canister never had a problem with it in my brumby there, BUT i made a point of not filling the tank right up unless i was going to be burning it straight away I'm not sure there is an answer here, too much cold fuel in a can, can warms up, fuel has to go somewhere......that'll be why my lawnmower fuel can 'fumigated' all the spiders out of my garden shed

bloody double posts

well i because i gathered up alot of the parts i use to convert to gas from second hand sources...a.k.a wreckers....i don't have any parts numbers. however a few things i learned that might help you. make sure your tank valve,lockoff valve and regulator all have the same size threads for the fuel line fittings....6mm is standard size plastic coated copper gas fuel tube here....my valves & reg all take a standard metric 6mm 'compression olive' nut (10mm thread) i run a Lovato electronic regulator (http://www.lovatogas.com) that appears to match their "reducer cod, 704801k"....however i don't know if this is the exact one i have...but it looks right. i would encourage anyone wanting to convert to gas to run a lovato regulator....they are great. don't use a ventury any bigger than 1.5"....you will have a huge hole just off idle if you do....and if you can, get a "spray ring" the type with small holes all the way around the inside....try to avoid the older type that has a pipe in the side thats cut off at an angle if you want to use a electronic regulator...you can use the standard fuel pump relay to control the regulator activation (i don't do this because i have a dedicated control relay as the rules here say i have to....however i have a wire run from the subaru relay foward to beside the regulator... just in-case the relay i'm using packs a sad) on the subject of fitting a mixer to a weber the way i would do it is to get or make a tophat for the carb that allows you run a pod filter and mount the mixer on the inlet of the tophat then just run a hose to a pod filter. There isn't room to mount a mixer on top of a carburetor unless you are lifted. i'll try to get pics of my setup tomorrow (abit with my webcam on my laptop)

.....Bugger

been doing some more searching and i'm not liking what i'm finding....seems that i'll need a complete suspension swap in order to fit the EA82t brakes in. if its going to be that much work i'd be as well to go the whole hog... an make all the bits i need to swap EJ brakes on the front and find a set of 200sx calipers for the rear disc's

will the ea82t hub assembly match up to an ea81 control arm and strut or is it not able to be done.? the reason i ask is that i have just got my brumby cert'd for the EJ18 thats in it....and was told that if i want to (legaly) go to a more powerful motor configeration (eg supercharger) i would need more powerful front brakes.....however legacy brakes sound like a PITA to fit without the kit from Crossbreed that would allow me to put them all round. and before anyone says it.....XT6's are almost unheard of here...i've only ever seen one. what are my options folks?

lmao.....i'm sure those words arn't ment to be in the same sentence

that makes me sound like a cheapskate:eek:.....oh bugger...cats outa the bag now:lol:

on a petrol fueled engine i would definately run NGK's....no point paying for uber-expensive kit when you don't need it i don't know why the NGK's wouldn't do the job in the new motor, i've never had a problem with them before....all i know is that on a brand new set of NGK's it ran like a 'sack'.....bosch's in it an it runs like clockwork

compression is compression....doesn't matter how you get there! same rules apply to an LPG system (ventury type) as a petrol carburetor..... carb must be sealed and you LPG regulator must have a boost reference port

you need plugs one grade colder.....and LPG is the one application that the uber-expensive "hi-performance" sparkplugs(i.e Platnums,super 4', splitfires etc) will give you better ignition than a standard plug.....i have Bosch Super 4 plugs in my LPG EJ18.....the difference in how much more smooth the starting, idle & running is on the Bosch's compared to NGK's is unbelieveable.... it was always a fight to get the motor to start on the NGK's...with the Boschs in i only have to wave my hand at the key and the motor's running

I'm running a single piece driveshaft....ej18 & Rx 'box....i never even considered going to a two piece driveshaft....its another bearing to (possibly) fail and you still got to mount the carrier...

sounds like the vacuum secondary opening (assuming you have a hitachi carb) to me

Board Name: LPGsuperchargedBrumby Engine:EJ18 Carb & Dizzy on LPG(propane) Transmission: Rx FT4WD 5SP D/R Chassis: '92 Brumby Other: custom DOJs, homemade adaptor plate and a one piece driveshaft.

LMAO....the other idea(not really serious though) i had is to use a pnumatic ram and have a small compressor and air tank underneath the front of the tray.....which would allow me to move the dizzy while the blower isn't switched on....but a wastegate actuator would be a whole heap cheaper than a proper air ram and means i could run low pressure air

thanks....that kinda confirms what i had thought...a 1.8 is a 1.8 so even with twice as many valves it should still draw roughly the same amount of air/fuel. on the dizzy side of things i'm running two possible ideas, one is to use a solinoid to move the dizzy round.... the other is to use a two way vacuum actuator like the one for the difflock on a RX box. whatever i use its going to need some grunt as my dizzy is rather stiff

would a weber jetted for a ea81/82 be able to be used on a EJ18(in a brumby) or would i have to rejet it? the reason i ask is that i have moved to an area that LPG is rather scarce...like 3 pumps over a 1000km of main road:mad:....so i'm going to have to go dual-fuel and thought that a weber would be a good carb to use. (as a side note for anyone that knows the timeing differences needed between Petrol and LPG....i have an idea for altering the timing at the same time as you change fuels so cunning you could pin a tail on it and call it a fox.....involving a solenoid and a lug welded onto the dizzy.....)

found the problem....plug leads were failing under heavy load....new plug leads and the problem disapeared. thanks to everyone for all the suggestions

My carb an distributor ej18 has developed a misfire/stumble at under about 2500rpm and low vacuum/open throttle. it was running great until i drove over some very soft sand and had to hold nearly wide open throttle in 1st gear for about 1 & a half minutes to keep moving....once back on a hard surface and less rpms this misfire appeared it starts and idles perfectly and revs all the way to redline while stationary without a problem, the misfire is most pronounced in 3rd,4th&5th gear below 2500rpm under fairly heavy throttle at over 2500rpm(on the road) it runs like a champ from only having the throttle open enough to hold 2500rpm right up to WOT. i thought it was the coil breaking down so swapped that for a new one that i had....that made no difference. I also cleaned the contacts on disty cap and rotor (i can't get new one's at short notice),and checked the plug gap. after doing that i took it for a test lap....and its now backfiring as welli'm starting to run out of ideas of what the culprit is....anyone have any suspects? Thanks

alright dude thats the easy way to disassemble it....now lets see you reassemble it an get it running again:lol: