LPGsuperchargedBrumby

having an annoying backfire problem with my ute.... if i hold a fairly open throttle (75%+) for awhile (30 seconds plus) then try to increase the throttle even more it will occacionally pop in rapid succession through the intake with a major drop in power and a rather rough ride...it bucks like a mule....continueing to hold the throttle open results in a loud hissing sound and a total loss of power....and the paint pen writing on the intake being burnt leads me to think that i have been having a fire in the manifold...closeing the throttle to about halfway then reopening it clears the problem...until i hold the throttle fairly wide open for awhile again. once it has done it once and been allowed to continue until it starts hissing it will do it ever time i try open the throttle past about 75%...until i slow down for about a minute to half throttle or so it doesn't start to do it every time either....but seems to be more common when the air is cold... below 2-3 deg C the A/F ratio is showing rich when it does it and doesn't change with the backfire/manifold fire any ideas?

http://shop.importdriver.com.au/store/products/item307.inetstore i put one of these on my brumby in austraila....worked like a charm

its also possable that the needle itself is sticking in the bush that it turns in....my australian brumby did the same thing (at a different speed however), cable was fine however when i took the dashcluster apart and moved the needle with my finger i could feel the needle go a little bit stiff at the same point that it paused at during acceleration.... i cleaned it out with contact cleaner and put some graphite based lube (that i had "liberated" from work) on it and worked the needle backwards and fowards till it rotated smoothly....it was all good after that

the pump only running while coil is firing is normal for a carb'd car

i am running a ej18 on LPG....but with a distributor & homemade gaseous carburetor.... if you where going to convert a FI motor you would need a set of emulators to shut off the fuel injectors while running on gas. i don't know too much about CNG except that its even higher octane than LPG so your timeing could be advanced even further.....i have my ej18 running 20deg BTDC. One thing about gas fuels that isn't mentioned on most pages that have info is the fact that the fueling needs to tuned backwards to what petrol is...I.E...if you motor is pinging/detonating/knocking you need to lean-out the mixture when running LPG/CNG

does anyone know how much clearance there is between the valves an the pistons on a ej18?....the reason i'd like to know is so i'd be able to mill the maximum amount off...WITHOUT turning it into a contact motor. thanks

no worrys.....pm me your email addy

i found a couple but it won't let me upload them onto here

http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4837&highlight=eg33+brumby it used to have good pics....but they seem to have dissapeared

there was a guy on ausubaru that put a EG33 in a brumby.....seem to remember that it went like a cut cat....but either sledged the front or thru the tail out on gravel due to the weight up front (don't remember which..)

LMAO....i don't think theres much left in harley's that is actually manufactured in america anymore

i have a LPG fueled carbureter and distributor ej18....

how much power would it take to run an electrolizer that can produce 100 liters a minute?

that is ledgendary!!!!

wastegate controls how much boost(i.e. 8psi ) you have.... a BOV or a BPV vents excess pressure when you close the throttle.....turbo doing 100,000rpm's....air its pumping got to go somewhere

from what i've heard the EZ30 is about 1 inch longer than an ej.....and my belt covers are just touching the back of the the thin'st electric fan i could find. going by the "only 1 inch longer than an ej" it should fit in....however you might have to do some fun fitting to sort cooling it out

an EA82T.....hope you like doing head gaskets dude

with regard to the one piece driveshaft....it needs to be made longer to match up with the 5spd as the gear box is shorter than the 4spd box

im the back of my brumby are a set of chains i got specificaly for driving in mud.....an to a lesser extent for snow an ice. the old style ladder steering chains with a couple of extra lengthway chains spaced evenly across the width of the ladder are the go for mud on a FWD or AWD......diamond chains are a dead loss for mud

it has no power until you crank it and power then stays on until about 0.5 sec after you kill the ignition.

just one question.....why would you want a RHD car in a LHD country?

chuck in a spare coil an thats pretty much the whole ignition system spare

im using a aftermarket thermofan controller wired into the temp sensor on the side of the radiator

i'd try heating the turbine, it might expand a little bit and be easy'r to get off

if you going to do an ej swap then do motor & box at the same time. i did it the other way....gearbox then motor... twice the down time....but its my daily driver so things got replaced as they died. oh yeah....an get with a one piece driveshaft made up if possible....so much easyer than mounting the carrier bearing