LPGsuperchargedBrumby

there was a local here that did a very similar engine a few years back....the engine went well once it was up to operating temperature got around 90mpg in a 4runner....it had two downsides....one it couldn't be driven until it was up to full operating temperature which took about 15-20 mins from a cold start...second downside was the fact that it had to use funny coolant that didn't boil and a lubricating oil normally used in a gas turbine due to the high temperatures that the engine was run at

i know this is probably a longshot but...... is there anyone on here that has experiance with the engines used in the 2&1/2 ton M35A2 6x6 military trucks....the LD465 LDT465 or LDS465 multifuel engines. what i want to know is what they are like reliability wise i'm sorta thinking on would make a good conversion engine(and the spicer gearbox that goes with it) for my housetruck....being able run on free waste engine oil appeals to my cheapskate side...plus it would mean i would be able to travel more and work less if i'm not paying for fuel.

lol the things you yanks have to do to get a bit RHD twin turbo legacy goodness....all i have to do is shell out the money to buy one...they are cheap here cos of how much fuel they chew thru 300hp won't be hard to get...the TT EJ20 is about 260-280hp depending on the model

lol it sounds like you need to keep an eye out for a AWD version...EJ22 and FWD=mucho rubba smoko:lol:

you would probably have to resleeve it i would think...might be easyer to get a EJ20 and swap your heads and intake manifold onto it...lol plus you would get a high compression motor because the EJ18 has a smaller head volume than a EJ20....high compo= good for alcohol blend fuels you guys get in brazil

finding a suspension strut/spring setup that doesn't hit inside the bottom of the strut tower....i have budget (used) tein adjustables that have a smaller spring diameter than any suby springs) brat front balljoint taper is smaller than one needed for a XT6/legacy/imp balljoint...not biggy just needs reamed out to the right size with a balljoint reamer the steering tie-rod taper interchanges between the brat and the XT6 or legacy knuckles...i had to use XT6 tie rod ends because they have a bigger 'curve' in them for steering clearance at "full lock and full suspension drop" and i still had to space the front wheels out 5mm on each side so they wouldn't touch. i also had to shorten the tie rods 15mm and extend the thread back the same amount because the XT6 rod ends are longer machined up front driveshafts to fit legacy DOJ's an out CV's....standard legacy length minus 90mm i've probably forgotten a couple of things as well

if your making your own adapter for the strut top make some provision for altering the ride height....the stock length impreza struts i had in made my ute run really low in the front....and they where soft as hell too compared to the ea81 setup

maybe they are overstocked on the cheap ones lol

the short answer is no.... i had impreza struts/springs in my brumby (brat) and even after i "stretched" the inside of the tower as far as i was game to the spring coils still hit the outboard bottom of the tower where it rolls around at the base....i now have a set of adjustable tein shocks in the front with a spring retainer/bearing carrier that i made up to allow it to work properly with the ea81 strut cap

lol i wish

for welding petrol tanks up i've alway purged the tank with CO2 before and during welding...costs a bit more in gas but is better that than joining the blown into the roof club...and its alot less drama than doing all the stuff that you have done. still i understand why you have gone to the lengths that you have...petrol vapour takes no prisoners

that second photochop is more like what i have in mind...if that little triangle window was solid instead its almost exactly what i'm thinking of... a little bit more of a radius at the bottom where the angle meets the side of the deck an it would be bang on lol its getting bad...i'm looking at every wagon i see...an seeing potential ute yet to be cut to suit...

hmmm that photochop is kinda what i have in mind...but i don't like how the back of the cab is done...i would want to make the rear profile of the cab more like a a brumby... like if they had carried on with the brumby based on the legacy or impreza wagon those tail lights on that photochop are just asking for trouble...might have to find some way to put guards over them if i make a ute

all the wagons here are 4 doors...i don't think they made 2 door wagons however after talking to the guy who i would get to certify it for the road it seem's that all i would have to do to regain the strength lost by cutting the roof off is to weld up the rear doors...making it a two door lol two birds dealt with one stone

does anyone have any pics of any subaru station wagons that have been cut down into a ute/pickup. i have been thinking about getting hold of an older station wagon and cutting it down into a ute...probably an early model legacy(or an outback if i can find one uber cheap) but would depend on what i can find that would suit. i know it has been done before but i haven't been able to find any pictures of the results...so if anyone has any they would be much appreciated Cheers

nice score dude!!!! i've only ever seen 2 of those, one in the local suby wreckers yard here that was so rusted out that i didn't even notice it was a subaru until i spotted the stud pattern on the wheels(i thought it was a old nissan hatch until i saw the wheels) the other one i saw was on SH1 in Winchester lol i damn near ran off the road gawking at it as i drove past one thing with swapping the doors off a brumby onto your hatch is to check the windows...i seem to remember reading on here that you need the side windows that match the vehicle...so you might need to swap the hatch windows into the brumby doors

+1

hmmm i wonder if we got different pump control units here....my one used to run for a few seconds when the key was first turned on

the fuel pumps on EA81's are known to die once the miles get up a bit....my one died at about 160'000km/100'000 miles. replaced it and it was all good again....then converted to LPG about 2 months later lol when you turn the key on it should go ticktickticktick....until it reach's fuel pressure...no ticktick= dead fuel pump....even if you have a clogged fuel filter the pump should still make that noise

i thought there was a mod that could be done that would let the clutch pack on the back of a EJ gearbox be locked up with the flick of a switch... just had a quick search for it an couldn't find it but i'm sure i've seen it on here that would let you have an EJ trans that could be 4X4 when wanted

that SPFI intake is very similar to the carb intake i have on my EJ22 the differences that i can see is are the shape of the inlets to the heads...my ones have ports that are the same shape as a MPFI manifold which allows me to bolt it straight onto a MPFI block and the inlet hole on my one is sort of oval to suit the twin barrels on the original carb apart from that they are pretty much the same oh and the larger of the two water temp sensor ports will take the temp sensor out of a EA81 so you temp gauge works right

its been done and yeah i seem to remember that they had to cut the front of the engine bay to fit it in

i always find it interesting that people keep saying that E10 10% ethanol fuel decreases MPG because i found it increased MPG when i lived in northern australia i ran E10 in my brumby because i got an increase of 2 MPG....30 MPG on 91 octane....32 MPG (imperial gallons) on E10...and E10 was 10 cents per liter cheaper to boot the hyundai excel i had also got better MPG on E10

i'd put new grease and boots on it an keep an eye on it....my Brumby/Brat is pushing 200'000 miles and is still on its original rear boots. as for replacing the boot its easy...the hardest part is getting the axles out of the vehicle as they can be a prat to get off the spline stubs on the diff an hubs

i'm having to turn up a pair of new front halfshafts for my 5 lug converted brumby....because the shortened ones i sleeved an welded together (and work beautifully) aren't able to be certified coz they are not machined out of one piece of material. Got one turned to profile today...doing next one in the morning 1 inch 4140....449mm long with the ends machined to the same profile's as a halfshaft out of a GT twin turbo.(449mm is 85mm shorter that the legacy shafts) i'll just have to get the splines machined to match the DOJ & CV.... hopefully i will get some pics to put on here before i put it all together