LPGsuperchargedBrumby

i'd put a gas turbine in my brumby...i kinda like the idea of a 8" exhaust pipe that melts the bumpers of ppl that pull up behind me at intersections...and boil their radiator's at the same time so the cap blows off:lol: or maybe just id add nos...screw piping it into the intake...just pipe it into the cab...instant hilarity button:banana:

thanks GD,your the man .....it was wired into the neutral switch:rolleyes: found the right wires and now my reverse lights are all working as they're meant to:banana: i detest autoelectrics:lol:

oh..i didn't know that manuals had a neutral switch...i shall bust my multi meter out and go forth and investigate....

as the title says...my reverse lights have decided to turn on in all gears...but not if im in neutral:confused:...anyone else had this? i had the reverse lights wired up so they worked with the wires on the new trans(FT D/R box)...and this they have done for the past month or so with no problems...until tonight when i put it into 1st and lit up the wall behind where i park. where is the reverse switch on the FT4wd D/R 'box?....and what the hell would cause it to to turn on the reverse lights in all gears cheers for any ideas

there are alot of taxis running LPG here in Kiwiland...and i've got a brumby/brat running dedicated LPG with no dramas the Outbacks are running about 10 to 1 compression so LPG should run quite well in it as LPG tolerates high comp ratios very well (its roughly comparible to methenol in its comp ratio tolerance) as for comment i saw early'r in the thread that LPG runs hot...it don't if it tuned right. LPG works reversed to petrol when it come to tuning rich or lean...as in the richer an LPG A/F ratio is the hotter it burns..the leaner it is the cooler it burns and LPG can be run rather lean before you notice a drop in power with a well tuned system on a 10 to 1 motor i would be expecting about a 15% drop in MPG when running on LPG

1 the bogging sounds like a carb issue to me, could be running rich 2 i don't think the gen 1 brats had an ERG setup....i know they didn't here(NZ) 3 what do you mean by a "winding" sound?...if it was a WIRRRRing sound id say that you throw out bearing is ill

hmmm....i think the last one i saw was a manual.....as soon as i figgered out it wasn't a ea82 box i lost interest cos it wasn't what i needed so......

legacy boxs that i've seen have had a electronic clutch pack on the back of the gearbox instead of a diff....you can feel it bumping 'in' and 'out' when your booting it on gravel<<that was in a gravel express impreza auto:rolleyes:

if your looking at running a DOHC wrx motor you'll need to cut and weld the frame rails to clear the T-belt covers....and you'll need to mod the engine cross member so the turbo header pipe has clearance(or get a X-member from a turbo ea81)

i've run fuel contaminated with diesel (result of a tanker driver filling the wrong tank on a friends farm...1000ltrs of petrol with about 50ltrs of diesel mixed in) i started to get suspisious when i put 4L of oil in the brumby and got 5L out at the next oilchange@5000km <<<< i thought i had a real money spinner there,my own oil well on wheels. i figger that the diesel just wasn't burning, it was washing down past the rings into the crankcase. diluted oil is not cool i told my father about it and he said that his father had exactly the same thing happen to him in the early seventys in his VW 1200....must be something to do with the flat fours:headbang:

i just finished working out what MPG i got over the weekend with my new gearbox...it works out at 25MPG running on LPG (n/a ea81 FT4wd 5sp d/r) 447km traveled...50 liters of lpg used

it sounds to me kinda like a weak coil...going all stuttery like that could be the coil not providing a good spark at higher loadings...just my 2 cents worth

Back off???....NEVER... yeah i found that out already......on tarseal:eek:

cheers Tom i knew soob folks would understand...LMFAO

just got back from taking my newly FT4WD brumby for its first longish run...60 miles out to my friends place & back. the clutch started playing up about 10 miles short of his place...and wouldn't disengage at all by the time i got there. we determined that i wasn't getting enough travel on the clutch lever on the gearbox because the yoke on the peddle end of the cable was hitting part of the bracket that secures the cable outer and was stopping the peddle from returning fully to its 'rest' position. so we dropped the clutch cable out redrilled the hole in it as far down as we could without the yoke and peddle fouling at full travel slapped it back in...and yehaa i have a clutch that now does what its meant too... apart from needing some thicker spacers under the trans cross member so that the back of the box fully clears the tunnel(its just touching but doesn't touch going around lefthand corners)...im think im all sorted:clap: i had to tell ppl that would understand...i try'd to explane it to a non-subaru type here and got a WTF kinda look back:confused:...some ppl just don't know 'goodness' when its sitting right in front of them:mad:

my left boot is programed to automaticly double-clutch as for getting high speed actuators and stuff....the question really is how much are you prepared to spend?

use over size fittings and hoses... the less restiction you can put in the lines and system the faster your actuators/rams will move

bumpty bump

do the RX 'boxs have a straight cut first gear? because i my one makes the same sound in first gear that alot of gearboxs make in reverse...normaly due to reverse being a staight cut gear set

my supercharger last was bolted on and my current one will be as well:clap:

hmmm the the vacuum actuator on my RX 'box is a double acting one thanks Jerry, i didn't get your post untill after i had found that out the hard way:lol:

anyone???

the lever that the vacuum actuator is attached to..is it pulled foward or pushed back to activate the diff lock?

venturi needs to be mounted in front of the throttle body not behind/downstream of it. i've seen conversions done on injected motor and most of them left all the FI gear inplace just disconecting the electrics and fuel pump and replaceing the disty with one that is stand alone(carburetor type). there are also thing called emulators used on LPG conversions in europe that plug into the back of the injectors and in turn have the injector power wire plugged into the back of them....and what they do when they're switched on is tell the ECU that injector is working while at the same time not allowing power through to the injector...so when your running on LPG the ecu don't know about it

if you are going to make your own carb like i did don't be tempted to try making a 'bigger carb' if your venturi is too big your low end isn't going to exist im running a 37mm venturi and its fine i was running a 46mm venturi and it would bog (and stall if i didn't stomp on the clutch) just off idle