subakev

Car started this time without a jump, and showed 14.26 volts. Showed about 12.6volts before I started it. the car ran for about 1 or 2 minutes and the it died. i haven't cleaned the plugs yet though. I will do that tomorrow since I've been up for about 18 hours now and I'm getting tired. when i tried to start the car after i got home and it seemed like the battery was dead.

I was able to run the car about 40 miles today, country roads, light rush hour traffic to the highway, about 10 miles on the highway and then back home on the country roads. There is a slight, inconsistent, up and down to the idle. There was no problems until I was about a mile from the house, there was a shudder on acceleration. When I got to the stop sign, the car died. I got it going, but I had to use my portable jump starter (the other day after I left the key on the on position overnight, today I found out the battery wont hold a charge) I made it about a mile home and then the car died about 30 seconds after sitting in my driveway. The plugs I am using now are ones I used previously and are somewhat fouled (dry black residue), and I need a new battery. Any ideas on the problems I had in the last mile home? Just spark plugs or maybe I need a new IAC.

Not adding chemicals into the engine, just cleaning some parts. I did add some Lucas oil fuel stabilizer to the gas but just a tanks worth. I will try and get it out on the road again tomorrow and see how it goes.

thank you for doing that. i wasnt sure how to look that up, thats a good trick

thanks for the tip, i didnt think about that. do you know what years would be compatible with mine?

I gave it a scrub with throttle body cleaner, i will soak it as well. do you think seafoam would be more effective?

there is a u-pull or something like it an hour away. you thinking i could find one there?

I performed the test that the haynes manual suggests for the IAC. I got it up to normal operating temp and pulled the sensor. it was about half way open. the manual states that it should be closed. with the sensor pulled out i was able to get a more stable resistance reading. i showing 10.2 ohms on one side and 9.8 on the other side. (looking for 9ohms) So this needs to be replaced. Is it to far gone to just give a good cleaning? Its a pretty expensive part that I cannot afford to get right away.

It should read 9 ohms according to the Haynes manual. When I use the multimeter the number jumps around up and down all over the place and goes to zero. I'm guessing that means it's bad. I'm going to try an get the car warned up and take it off and see if it's open or closed

If I give it gas it will stay on. When the foot comes off the pedal, it dies shortly after. maybe IAC or EGR? maybe another vacuum line is cracked? the PCV valve hose seemed pretty loose where it connects on the bottom (into the block). I cleaned the egr valve and it seemed to be working ok. lines going in and out of it seemed clear. New plugs, new wires, new coolant temperature sensor, timing components seem ok.

no discernible gas smell to it. not really greasy feeling either

check this out. I tried starting my car today and it seemed ok at first, then the idle started dropping and it cut off. i tried again a few minutes later and this came out of my tailpipe

timing parts seemed fine. also found some records that the timing was replaced about 30,000 miles ago. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and found a broken vacuum line in the process. it was going into this part, is that the fuel pressure regulator?

Wife always gets the new car! Lots of great info on here

Here are some before and after pics of my plugs. the before is driving on the for about 3 hours, i pulled them this am to check them out. the after is after trying to start the car this AM, the idle was rough, liquid came out of the exhaust and it shut off before it warmed up fully and wouldnt start again. I was hoping to bring it to a mechanic I know to help me look at the timing, but probably not going anywhere today.

Thanks, that seems pretty affordable. I will probably get one soon.

After I get her running well again, my next task will be fixing some cosmetic stuff in the dash and front bumper. But that is a task for another day

So I've got a thread going asking some questions about my car but I never introduced myself, so here goes. I'm in the chapel hill, NC area, I'm a butcher, and own a 1995 Subaru Legacy Brighton 2.2 automatic. Its a little beat up, but its been doing the job of taking me to and from work for a year and half now. I got the car for $500 (bought it from a friend, who got it from another friend, who got it from his sister - the car has been making its rounds). It was supposed to be a temporary ride while we saved up and got a newer car. Then my wife's "good" car timing chain jumped not to long ago and we are down a car. With our work schedules, two cars are a necessity. So we got a 2010 Toyota and the Subaru stays for the foreseeable future. There are a few things going on with the Subaru and I am enjoying learning about the car and trying to do as much as possible myself to save some money. Thanks for the help so far!

Sorry I'm not familar with FreexeFrame?

This reminds me that I noticed some soot coming out of my tailpipe. There have been a lot of things popping up lately and I'm having trouble remembering all the symptoms. I've been taking a lot of pictures to help me out

If the timing is off would that cause the plugs to foul quickly?

Should there be a belt on that other pulley there on the right?

Thanks I will check that out. I've never done anything with the timing belt. It seems like you have to get a lot of stuff off to get at it. Do I have to take the alternator belt off and then pull the radiator out to look at it?

Yes that's with all 4 plugs out and throttle body open. I ran the rest twice

I did a compression test on all 4 cylinders, I am showing just above 90 psi. I will have to get a leak down test soon and see how bad the leak is.