pyromanic

yea, I want to know about fast idle too. But mine works, it's just that it's too fast at first. Steps down after a while, like it's sposed too, but starts out too fast. So yea, how do you adjust fast idle? Hayes manual is speachless on this. Boogers. pyro

Hey, I'm wondering what yer thinkin is on using 75/140. instead of the lighter weight that Soob recomends. Is to help "cushin" things internally? Do you think going heavier like that helps? I think Soob says to use 75/90. I been wondering if heavier like that would help with the notchyness. Pyro

I would like to here everybodies favorite recipies for quiteing down and slicken' up old, notchy 5 speeds. I know that Redline is popular. Which one? Or which mixes? Other synthetics? Lighter? Heavier? (are there rebuild kits availiable for these?) I'm not interested in what folks put in transmissions that are still in good shape, even if it may increase longevity. Just what folks are doing to try to get old, tired ones to act nicer. Thanks, Pyro

So I didn't know if I had the TOD, the COD (clatter of doom), or what. This 85 EA 82 was suposed to have had 1800 bucks of engine work done to her before the auto trans died. Then she sat for five years. I picked her up for a song, (and sang it myself), and stuck a JY 5 sp DR in her last week. She ran, but oh, that clatter. A pint of MMO then full up with 20/50 Castrol took care of most of the clatter. Not all, but most. Only took 30 or 40 miles too. But still no oil pressure at idle. Plenty when cold, but nothing when warmed up. In fact NEGATIVE pressure on the gauge. So what to do? Today I installed a nice VDO mechanical gauge with the BIG gradiations, so that I could really se what is going on. Figured since these older Soobs are notorious for low pressure, might as well spend the extra dough so I could get an accurae reading of even LOW presure. Heres what I got. 19.5 PSI at idle, when at operating temp. Up to 75 at 3500 rpm. Not great, but beats the heck out of negative, eh? What to do? I don't know yet. I am considering my options. Time for a compression check. I am skeptical of that 1800 bucks of engine work. I know the outfit that was supposed to have done it, in Bend OR, and they are higher than heck on pricing of labor. So I'm thinking that maybe just the top end was gone through? The engine looks like at least that was done. And it runs great. It is leaking a very small amount around the front. I suspect cam seals or whatever. It just seems like if this engine had a complete overhaul, (as I was told) oil pressure would be better. Oh well, it runs. Comments welcome. 20 lbs aint that bad is it? pyro

Of course another reason to ditcht he clutch fan is that they are a real PIA to get on and off when doing engine work up front. (I've got big hands.) I'm going for it. Pyro

Thats interesting. I let y'all know what I find. Thanks

I really really thing it's the stripped plug threads in head. Really. Can those be helicoiled? If so, thats a pretty cheap and quick fix. Good luck

I have a doner car. Just have to figure out what to done. Donner. Doan. Doaner nner. AAARGH Doaner? How the heck do ya spell that? Any how, thanks. Tomarro's another day. Another dirty shirt. Pyro

Oh duh, MMO. I have a gallon of marvel on hand. Just didn't put the initials together in my head. Tired I guess. by the way, diesel is not explosive at all. Which is why when used as fuel in internal combustion engins, it must be compressed. Now I won't dispute that it's not all that clean. But check this out. Most of the comercially made crankcase additives which are disighned and advertised to clean engines and free stuck lifter and help with gumed up valves consist of ingredients of diesel like and kerosene like stuff. No kidding. Or not. Just what I have heard all my life over and over. (I'm 50) Might not be true though. But since I have the Marvel, I'll try it. Thanks for all the input guys. Appreciated Pyro

What is MMO? There are no leaks. Should also be new oil pump and seal, as engine has only 12000 mile on rebuild before it sat for five years. If lifters are stuck, why is the engine quiet when cold? Thanks, Pyro

Well, I already changed the oil to 15 w 40. It's still cold here in central oregon. Is that too light? But my super mechanic buddy (but not with soobs) says that his theory is this: Since the car sat for five years, the hydrolic lifter are stuck, and not pumping up. He suggested that they will pump up in time with use. Or, he said, try this: drain one quart of oil, then back fill with one quart of diesel. Run for for minutes, no longer. One reason his theory does not make sense to me, is why would it be so quiet when it's cold. Sounds like the lifters are pumping up to me. I don't know. Sounds dangerous to me. Is he even on the right track regarding stuck lifters when a car has sat for years? All thoughts appreciated. Pyro

So when I bought this 85 GL Wagon I was told the heater didn't work. I figured it was just a fuse. The seller was not mechanically inclined at all. No sweat I thought. Well if it's a fuse, I can't find it. No fan, no nothing. What am I missing? Pyro

Ok, I'm scrapping an 86 GL, EA 82 and parting it out to the 85 tranny swap job. But my point is this, that 86 engine was surely high miles. Leaked oil every where it could. Ticked like crazy. And since the 5 sp MT was just about shot, and it had considerable body damage, I decided it was over. So maybe I heard the TOD. Probably? Now moving on to the 85, I just swaped in a junk yard 5 sp DR. Nice quiet Trans. This EA 82 just had 1800 bucks worth of rebuild. No leaks. Runs smooth. And is quiet untill it warms up. Then it clatters. Not tick, like the other one, but clatters. To me it sounds like the valve train, all clattering equally loud. What is this? Problem is, I don't really know what a healthy EA 82 is supposed to sound like. Maybe this is normal. I'd like it better if it was as quiet all the time as it is during the first five minutes, untill it gets warm. I ignorantly await ejecaten. Thanks. Pyro

What switch do you mean? You mean the emergency flashers? I don't get it. And thanks on the splice job. I intend to get the neutral safety switch hooked up eventualy, when I have time to figure it out. (provided I CAN figure it out) Pyro

I got a great tip from a member on splicing the fat wires at the shifter in my 85 gl wagon, which just got a 5 sp in place of a shot auto. It works. But do I just Leave it spliced, or will that drain the battery? I'm new to Soobs, and I know it shows. Also, when I first got it running after the swap this morning, I had temp gauge and voltmeter. They suddently quit on me. Whats up with that? One last thing, I've read here that a EA 82 is supposed to sound like a can of marbles being shaken. This is a suposedly rebuilt motor, and that might be true as it has zero leaks, but it sound like a can of BIG marbles, being shaken REALLY REALLY hard. Scares. But it's not knocking like no oil or bad rod or bearing or like that, if you see what I mean. It's so hard to describe sounds with words. Oh, and I've got tail or brake lights on all the time and wonder if I did something wrong when installing the pedal box from the manual. Pyro

So do I just leave those two wires spliced together or what? Theres some wires coming off the manual trans, but I have no idea where they would go. I tried to use the already swaped rig as a pattern, but the color coding doesn't match up and theres 5 coming out of the harness on the 85, 4 on the 86. And like I said, the color coding is different. What about a toggle switch where I spliced?

So, the 85 wagon now wears a 5 sp dual range, and the shot auto is a------what, a yaht anchor? Whatever. Getting the clutch/brake box out of the doner car, and switching them was a devil, just like was stated here at usmb, but it got done. Only problem was, while struggleing to twist the assembly out from under the stearing colum and instaling the other one, the master cylinder piston got pushed in I don't know how many times. Now the fron brake calipers pistons are squoze out to far to clear the pads, and they will not be pushed back in. No way, no how. Even made a crude press with a piece of angle iron, bunch of washers and nut. Really put the pressure on it, with the bleeders open. No movement. AAARRRRGHHH!!!! Have to confess that the brakes on this rig did not function anyway, before I started this tranny swap. They were incrdibly mushy, pedal to the floor, and only barely slowed the rig down. This Soob sat for five Central Oregon snowy winters. But I THINK they were working before it was parked due to failed Auto Trans. Front pads look new, by the way, whatever that means. Whats my best bet here? I'm thinking maybe just grab the caliper assemblys from the donar car, as the brakes work great on that one, and use whichever pads look best. I havent been into the rear drums yet. And what are the odds of a master cylinder prob too? Thanks for any advice. This project has wore this oldtimer to the bone, working alone and outside in the weather, and to have this glitch so near the end is pretty frustrating, whine whine crybabypeepeepantssnivelsnivel. F-it, I'm gonna have a shot and beer. Pyro

Well I can't thank you enough for that tip, I wouldn't have found it in a million years. It worked. One thing that puzzels me is that my parts car, (runs barely, 86 GL wagon, 5 sp man, DR), was originally a Auto, but was swapped out to Manual before I aquired it. I have been using it as reference for the swap on the 85 auto. I checked the plugs at the auto shifter, and there is no spicing, so I'm wondering how they got it running? There must be another method. But the 85 is ALIVE!! ALIVE I SAY! Thanks again, Pyro

Well I have just singlehandedly stuck a 5sp DR MTin place of the shot in the arse AT in my 85 wagon. Should have had help, as I havn't wrenched liked that for close to 30 years, and I don't quite know what I'm doing. New battery wont get juice to starter. Why? Also there seems to be a small short. With every thing turned off, there is a bit of spar (tiny) when I touch the cable to the terminal. But about the no juice to starter thing, What am I missing? I'm thinking since the car was wired for an AT, that there is some kind of setup to keep it from starting in any mode but Park. Now with the MT in, is there some magic wireing to be done? Shoot, I'm so close I can taste it. All advice greatly appreciated. Thanks Pyro

Thanks. I'll sleep better. Figured there was somewhere to seperate the exaust system. I'd like to have the manual tranny in by end of tomarrow, but doubt it. I don't work that fast. Pyro

Well, I had the darn radiator out before I realized I dont need to pull the engine to get the auto tranny out of my 85 GL wagon. I have a 5 sp to replace it with. So I will leave the engine, since it's just about new anyway. I managed to get the pasenger side axel pulled out of the way today. Will do drivers side tomarrow. Then: Well, sorry for not having really crawled under and had a good look yet, but will I be dropping the entire exaust system? Might be a dumb question I know. Could also use som tips on best clutch/pressure plate/ throwout bearing deals. Where and how much. Thanks Pyro

Cant help with advice bout 3at's in your area, but offer my opinion about 3at's in general. They don't last. They seem to be a major weak link in these rigs. I am replacing one with a 5sp manual dual range even as we speak in 85 GL. You don't say what year or rig you have. Bet you get more repsonses if you post more information. Again, I don't like the Autos in the older soobs. Would never trust a used one. Just my opinion. Pyro

Nope, not yet. Found tranny, but will be a while before I can pick it up. Still have none of the other parts needed. Maybe by spring. Besides, I'll be doing the job outside, no cover, so will wait till the snow and ice subsides. But I will post results. Not much help. Sorry. Pyro

Well, I can't help you with the wagon, but just to say we feel for ya, been watching you valley folks on the news (we're in La Pine), yea ya'll been covered in ice, what a mess. Glad theres no injuries. Uh, whatcha gonna do with that wagon, might be interested in it for salvage?! Pyroclayman

1200 miles on a rebuild, then it sat for five years. Pretty darn clean. A little oil here and there. I've heard it run, it sounds great. My question is, when I pull it to prepare for tranny swap how much of a re-seal should I plan on. Or maybe it will be apparent? Are there certain gaskets or seals that would be a given for replacement with an engine that has sat this long? Thanks for all Pyroclayman