pyromanic

Ok, I think I'm ready to weberize my 85 wagon. I took a look at the link above, and am confused. That webpage "Webercarbsdirect" says that that is a DGEV. But the provider of the link talks about DG "A" V. I have a Haynes techbook "Weber Carburetor Manual", and I don't even see a DGEV. I don't want to buy the wrong carb. So is that really what I want? The DGEV from Webercarbsdirect? Is the bolt pattern really the same? This is for a 1985 GL wagon, 5sp DR, EA82. Thanks for any help Pyro

Love that paint job! How did you do that? PYro

I'm glad that question got asked. I have the same problem on my 85 wagon. Drivers door has those ugly roller marks, and the windshield has some pretty bad arcs high up. And thanks for the Whitney link! Pyro PS: Has any one actually tried this stuff and how well does it work?

I'm no master mechanic, but I'll try to help the little I can. There are a number of ways to check for spark at the plugs. One is to take out a plug, lay it on the block, (it helps to have two people) or better press it the side of it against a good ground and have someone turn the key, crank over the engine. Look for spark jumping. Watch out, ya can get zapped, wont harm, just hurt. Maybe try to do this in a shady spot so you can see the spark, if it's there. Pyro

Good question. I had read so many accounts of oil pressure gauges being quite different from car to car (Soobs) that I did not trust mine, so installed mechanical. I just (yesterday) installed a mechanical tempt gauge too. The in dash gauge in my 85 GL wagon, DR5spman was taking about 15 minutes to get up reading 1/4. Then it stayed right there, no matter how hard (or not) I drove. Having no idea what such a reading might really mean as far as operating temp goes, I went out and bought a full sweep mechanical. Results: Takes about 15 minutes warm up at ide (or a couple of miles if I just start driveing) to get the new gauge up to 180. Then it pretty much stays right there. Only fluctuates maybe 10 15 degrees up or down from there, depending on RPM. I assume I have a 180 stock thermostat, don't really know. I bought a cheap replacement, but since then read here about those being problematic, so have been afraid to install it. Besides, I don't seem to have any temp problems. Though I confess that I don't even know how hot or cool these engines are supposed to run. If the above report on how my EA82 is running sounds like something is not right, I hope someone will let me know. Hope this helps, and thanks for any comments. Pyro

I put this message in the wrong thread yesterday, sorry. This post is an attempt to move where I intended. Hey PK, I PMd you, don't know if you received it or not. Not to rush or anything, just exited cause the GL's pretty much restored and is finally ready to lift. Been looking forward to this for a long time!! Pyromanic La Pine. Oregon

Singletrack, what am I missing here? You have a new CCR Re-man motor, is that correct? And you have excessive lifter noise? Correct? And you are considering treating with ATF hoping to correct the lifter noise? My understanding is that the ATF treatment is used in an attempt to clean out the gunk that may have accumulated in an old motor. (ATF is high detergent) If I am reading this thread right, and you have a new CCR motor, seems to me like there is no possibility of gunk in the lifters, as they would be new. So the ATF treatment would be fruitless, gaurenteed. (might void CCRs gaurentee too, I don't know.) I confess that I have a problem understanding what I read sometimes, so if I've misunderstood this thread, please disregaurd the above. On the otherhand, I have a EA 82 that sat for five years after 12000 miles on a rebuild, and the owner probably did not change the oil during those miles. AT broke. It sat, 5 years. I bought it. HORRIBLE lifter noise. I've tried MMO. No avail. Will try ATF next. Good luck, and hope this helps. Pyro

Moved to intended thread

Yea, but are there rebuild kits availiable for the pump? Pyro

Interestin. I didn't know such a thing was availiable. Good to know! Thanks. PYro

Out of curiosity and for future reference, please tell how they do this block check? Something about pressurizing the system? What? Thanks {Pyro

There are others that will know more than I, they will probably jump in here and help you more that I can, but I will say this, Before I knew how to properly bleed the pump, I was low on fluid and did not know this. So it was very noisy. I mistakenly thought I needed a new one. Price on new was too high, to I swapped in a JY pump. Still noilsy. Found out how to properly bleed them, noise gone. The reason I mention this is because while working on the pump swap, I saw that the main seal is is just held in with a clip. So if that is where yours is leaking, a new seal would be cheap and easy to do yourself, IF they are availiable. I never found out if there is a pump rebuild kit because proper bleeding solved the problem. I would like to know though. Anybody? If it's not leaking at the rack someplace, I'd ignore it. Pyro

s I think your potential buyer meant connecting rod, when he said rod. OHC is for overhead cam. The rods he was probably talking about are the rods which connect the piston to the crank shaft. When when a rod bearing,at the crank shaft bites it, it knocks. As can a wrist pin. Or a main crankshaft bearing.. The growling you hear could be "spun bearing", which is bad. If that is the case you need to overhaul the bottom end. Good luck. Pyro

Got it apart. Ball bearing type, but a little unusual. Very replacable, but that wasnt needed. There is a rubber spacer which had somehow come off the bearing housing, and was just laying behind the bearing in the colum. Allowed the shaft lots of slop. Probably like I thought, mail lady leaning on it for years. But every thing was in good shape. Just cleaned it up, used a little permatex to glue the spacer to the bearing housing, greased it properly, reinstalled, good as new. Pyro

Rusty spines? Pyro

Nope, can't get it off by hand. Hayes Repair Manual says this: 5 Remove the steering wheel from the steering shaft; a steering wheel puller is not usually needed for earlier models. On later models, if the steering wheel is difficult to remove, install a steering wheel puller to seperate the wheel from the shaft. [chapter 10 sec. 20, Hayes Repair Manual Subaru 1600 &1800 1980 thru 1994] Pyro

Well stupid me, I didn't even tug on the wheel after removing the nut and washer, just assumed that since I know there is such a thing as a steering wheel puller, and since Fuji saw fit to accomadate a puller with two hole and a tapered divit in the shaft, that it was a tight press fit. I'll find out today if one is needed. Since I'm not getting a bunch of hits on this question, I'm thinking that maybe these bushings are never found to be worn much, like this one is. Here is what I think happened. I bought this car from my mail lady. We live rural, and the mail carriers are private contractors, and must use their own vehicle. So this 85 wagon saw many tens of thousands of miles with the driver sitting in the passenger seat, with left leg and foot straddleing the console and shifter. It started as an auto, so she worked the gas and brake with left foot. My theory is that that hundreds of times a day, she leaned out the passenger window to stick mail in boxes, while holding on to the wheel with her left hand, and counterbalencing her weight on the wheel. Maybe that is why the bushing is shot. My mechanic buddy, (who has never worked on a Soob after 30 years of wrenching!) says that often these bushing cannot be removed without destroying them. If that turns out to be the case, I'm looking at a steering colum swap. PIA What about just replacing the top part, from the U type joint under the dash? I wonder if that U joint comes apart? This is gonna be fun. Pyro

Here is another vote for Kroil. Its a best kept secret. Can you imagine a penetrating oil that can get between the copper fouling and the steel in a high powered benchrest rifles barrel. the copper is practically fused to the steel. Kroil gets between. Thats where I got turned on to the stuff. Works like magic when all others fail. Rust is no match. Let it sit. But avoid the fumes. Yes, popular in the aircraft industry too. Yield is the only one I havn't tried, will look for it. PYro

Good luck! All I can say is that it took a WHOLE lot more pressure to compress the spring than I ever imagined. And I suspect that without those spring compression tools, it may not be possible. I would actually prefer to be wrong on this. Pyro Also, I think those strutt tools can be had for around 35 40 bucks. Maybe less. (Good US made ones I mean.) I paid 12 for the Chinese versions that broke on first use.

So I'm checked into the sloppy steering wheel today. Pulled the plastic off the colum behind the wheel. Looks like theres a bushing that the shaft goes through at the very top of the colum. Very sloppy. Thats where all the play is. Went out to the donor car and did the same. That bushing is good. I could borrow a steering wheel puller tommarrow, but before I do that I thought I'd ask, can these bushings be removed and installed without destroying them? And is it a bushing, bearing, or what? Pyro, who is trying to learn to ask for some direction before he tears things to far apart!

I've been through this twice now Dragonwingsubaru. I wish it were as simple as that. But then what specifically do you mean by "push up"? You have the right concept, but how do you push up on them? I bought a cheap set of Habor Frieght "strutt tools". (read Chinease) The Hayes manual says to adjust the coilovers, remove them. Put them in a vise, compress the spring with the Strutt tools, turn the adjustable collar where you want it (position A,B, or C), then reinstall. I cheated, and was able to get to position B without removing anything, but it was PIA. No way I could get enough compression to get to C (highest). So I removed one of the coilovers and tried the vise thing. Broke the tools pounding on it, cause I didn't use the little "anti slide down the slope of the spring fasteners" thingys that would have kept the two tools directly opposed when compressing the spring. when the tool broke I gave up and settled for position B, which is probably a good thing any how, as my axles will last longer I suppose. I'll just wait for the PK lift feller to get back and install a lift. Now you just wait and see, sombodys gonna add to thread and explain the super easy 10 minute method of raising those rear strutts, and then my stubborn foolishness will be exposed for all the world to see!! Or not. Well see. Seriously, I hope there is a better way, cause what I was trying was a b ig PIA! Pyro "There are no mechanical problems which can not be overcome through either brute strength, ignorance, or some combination of the two" Don Hall, 1968, as spoken to his young son, the first time he handed him a wrench. I can testify that he was only part right. Which is good enough for me.

Had I realized we (well, you anyway) were talking about O rings, I ------------Nevermind. Apples and oranges Pyro

Ok, I got it. And here's the stupid problem. The ignition switch is so worn that ya can't tell the difference from acc and run. I checked my donor car, the 86, and theres a sort of "bump" you can feel between the two. Not in the 85. But if you get it turned all the way, and stop in exactly the right place, lights come on. Weight of keys on ring will sometime flop the key in switch back just enough to turn the lights off. So I'll get a detatchable key snappy thingy (hillbilly technical term) so that thers only the one key in the switch. Other than that, just have to finesse it. But it works, once you get used to it. Or maybe I could swap out the ignition switch, but then I'd need a seperate door key, sounds like PIA. Probably live with it like it is. Thanks for the help. I feel silly not having figured this out quicker. Pyro

Ok, I apologize for not being clear, and now I'm confused. Maybe. Heres the deal. The lights are only on when engine running. The will not come with key turned to accessory. Now I get that I can't run the battery down by leaving the light on accidently without the engine running, but I'm still not clear how it's SUPPOSED to be. I think I am hearing opposing oppinions. Pyro

Well thats what I expected, the lights to on when the key is on acc or engine running of course. So what could be causing this? Pyro