pyromanic

I did my 85 speedo cable a couple months ago when I did a tranny swap. I did not know how to get the cluster out, so I stood pretty much on my head with the drivers seat all the way reclined with my leggs and feet hanging over the back seat. Wore a headlamp. Really couldn't see, but managed to get it installed anyway, mostly by feel. It was a major PIA. I have big hands. Sure wish I'd known how to get the cluster out. Sounds way easier. But I can testify that it can be done without taking anything apart. Next time I'll know better. Pyro

Hey Shady, Whats up with these rims, you getting any orders? And my lift should be here within a week. It'll take me a couple days then to install, and make a descision on what to do with wheels/tires. I'm not ready to make a commitment, but would like to keep track of what's up with these rims. Might just be the perfect solution for my rig, don't know yet. Pyro

yea, thats what I was thinking too. Thanks for the reply. So your thinking that the 87 wasn't any stiffer from the factory? The 87 looks like it's seen nothing but hiway miles. Unfortunately tweakers had it last and got into the engine compartment and under the dash. What MESS! My 85 was well used. Not beat, but well used. Pyro

My driver is an 85 Gl Wagon, DR5sp, adjustable coilovers and strutts. Yesterday, I towed (got towed) home the free 87 wagon, DR5sp, EFI. I wanted this car for the crank windows, EFI and whatever. One thing I noticed during the ride home was that the supension was way stiffer than the 85 with it's origional coilovers and strutts. The 87 supension is not adjustable. Would the 87 be stiffer because it came that way new or just 'cause the componets are in better shape? They both have about the same miles. I'm considering swapping. Pyro

24.7 Goodyears been working for me while wait for my lift. Cheap at Schwab too. Pyro

Thank you very much for the information. My wife is the computer literate person in this household, and she will make good use of it. Much appreciated. And furthermore, thanks for the signiture. Mine will be revised/drasticly shortened by todays end. And I apologize for my ignorance. I may be slow sometimes, but I am teachable. Pyro

Thanks for the links. One is re: SPFI to EA81, (I'm looking to 82), and the other I can't get into. We upgraded Adobe, but whats this about a decompression thingy to make it work? I see in readers notes there, that other fellers have had troubles getting into this. Darn! I want to print it use it! Any help appreciated. I'm still "searching" the board looking for info on this conversion. Some seem to think it's pretty easy, some hard. Since I have a complete donor car maybe it wouldn't be to bad. And I gather that it's worth doing. Yes? But how does one get into that write up on SPFI for EA82? Whats this about buying "WinZip" or some darn thing? No comprende. Pyro

My driver is an 85 carbed gl wagon, DR 5sp. Just paid PK for a lift. She's got a low milage long block. Barely leaks oil (so far) Runs great. I have just been given an 87 gl wagon, only difference betweent he two is the 87 is injected. I am considering putting the injection system on my 85. Are there any good write ups on the conversion? Any preformance gains? Since my Hitache seems to be fine so far, is it even worth it? Is it difficult? I'm supposing I would need to change part of my exaust system for 02 sensor? I'm completly dumb about fuel injection, computors and such. Thanks for any hints Pyro

Hey Miles, I probably wasn't clear. The 100 dollar 85 with the busted belt got sold out from under me. Now Im getting a free (FREE!) 87. fuel injected, DR 5sp. Doesn't run. Don't know why yet. Dash has been torn into pretty severly. Looks like the steering colum too is all torn to pieces. Ignition switch problems? I don't have time to mess with it. I'll part it out. Looks like it's time to consider switching my daily driver to injection. I wonder what kind preformace difference that would make? My hitache runs fine, so I won't bother untill I decide if it's worth it. Pyro

Cant believe my good luck. I grabbed my towing buddy and went over to try to close the deal. Sold out from under me. Oh well. Then my bud say he knows where a FREE one is. '87. Turns out it's injected too!! We went and looked today. Dashboards been removed, but it's all there. 5sp too. Wow. So yes, I'll be having some stuff to get rid of in a while. I'll post on marketplace when I get it home and apart. Pyro

I suppose it depends on your mechanical experience and aptitude. I did both sides balljoints recently plus tie rod ends, bearings, axles and most bushings. Wasn't particularly hard. I'd bet others will chime it with some tips. Also there are some good threads here on the board, on ball joints which helped me a lot. Just search them out. Then go for it. Theres no special tools needed or particularly difficult aspect to it. Just take your time and pay attention. Youll be fine. Good luck! Pyro

I will post by tonight and tell whether or not these kids take my offer. Also I will report as if my wife skins me when she finds another old soob on the property. If y'all don't here form me tonight or in the morning please send help, but tell them to watch out for a tall skinny brunette with a loaded 45 and a baseball bat muttering something about "I told him no more old Subarus". Pyro PS. Yup, 3.9 rear diff. Hey, what's that diff and or Tranny worth on the used market?

That was a typographical error. Yes, Karinvail, your numbers are correct. This is an 85, with EA 82. Sorry for the confusion. My mistake. I will be trying to close this deal today, and tow it home. 3 miles.

I found an 85 gl wagon today with 5 sp DR. Busted timing belt. 100 bucks. I want the doors cause they are hand crank instead of electric. Maybe the consol and and a couple of other things. I don't need the trans, the rear diff or the motor really. Hitache carb it is. Will part it out. I'm in La Pine Oregon. Any interest? pyro

In my view, thats an inherent issue with these ball bearings. You can't really examine the balls or races, cause you can't see them like with say timken tapered bearings. With those you can clean em up good and then examine carfully for pits, discloration, whathavyou. Probably best to just replace with new any ball bearings of unknown age/miles. I do. Hope this helps. Oh, and you can save a little dough by buying them from a bearing house, industrial supply or such, instead of auto parts house. There's a good thread on this somewhere, but good luck finding it. Try search on this. Pyro

I had the same problem with a stuck rear axle a while ago. I beat it off with a hammer. Hit it on the fat part on the radius, turn hit it again. Didn't ruin it either. I think it was Miles Fox who turned me on that. It was real tight all the way off the splines, so tight that one I DID get it off, I realized there was no way it was ever gonna get pried off. BFG was the only possibility. Heck, it had probably been there close to 20 years. Fused with rust. Hope this helps. By the way, I was pretty scared I'd ruin it that way, but didn't. Pyro

Count me in on a group buy, but not untill PK gets me my lift! I'm just waiting for final price and shipping, shouldn't be long. He says it's built, just can't get ahold of him to finalize. Pyro

Well, I am narrow minded, biased and predjudiced as well on this topic. Autos suck. Thats my story and I'm stickin' to it. But the rest of the truth is, I have one in my 98 chevy 3/4 to RWD. It's ok I guess. Sure less fatigue on the long hauls. But for any 4x4, I say it's gotta be Manual. I don't know why. Biased, like I said. Just the way I was raised. Pyro

Hmm. Then, yup, must be drainage.

Another nice thing about the power pumps on the EA82's is that they are so easy to rebuild-restore. 25 bucks for OEM kit, or just buy a seal down at a bearing house. Just did one that sprung a leak. I used to have an 87 4x4 Toyota PU with no power steering. It was an arm breaken' bitc#. Seems like the bigger tires the worse that is. Pyro

I'd like to see a picture of this thing? Pyro

Archemitis, this is what I was told about that: They supposedly machine out the sloppy scored cups, and then install oversize ball bearings. Thats from my buddy at my local parts house. I don't know nuttin, thats just what he told me when I asked him the same question. With that story in hand, and tons of testimony from the far more experienced guys than myself here on the board, I made a descision to stay away from re-man, and only use new. Pyro

The sidewall plugs in the tool compartment give access to the bolts that hold the bumper in place, if I understand your question correctly. I recently installed a custom bumper, and left the plugs out for a while in order to establish that the new bolts were going to stay tight. Indeed, things got wet in there untill I put the plugs back in. I can't think of any reason not seal them with bead of silicone. The bottom plugs or others I have no idea why they are there. Never had them out. Wouldn't be suprised if they give access to something. Pull them and look if you want. Pyro

I got a compete new pump from napa for 140. Just another option. Only thing is, I hear bad things here on the board about after market (non OEM) oil pump seals. I only have a couple hundred miles on it so, too soon to tell. Pyro

To everybody that reads this thread, I apologize for having had the lapse of good judgement to have ever reacted to rude behavior. My mistake, I wish I hadn't done it. The feller above is correct in my humble opinion, regarding his right, and anyone elses right to put any dang sticker any dang place they want and also to think and say any thing they want. (barring inciting riot of course) Many have given, some are giving, and I would give my life to defend that right, were it ever threatened. Also, yea, crazy tire wear sucks. Pyro