pyromanic

I heard about those a couple of months ago and did a thouough web seach and a couple of hours of reading. All the "they work" testimonies seemed to be anecdotal or paid for byt the folks that make them.All the scientific studies done by INDEPENDENT researchers, (yes, there have been several), proved that they do not work. (thats what I read) Some major auto magazine guys (more than one) looked into them too, and said that all dyno claims of more economy and power were paid for by the manufacturer. But when THEY dyno'd them, no increases. Hey, thats just what I read. I have no experience with this product, and I aint gonna. Pyro

I'm not saying this is the right way, or the best way, only that it can be done without removing ANY belts. I did it a couple of weeks ago. Once I had all the covers off, and the crank pully, I loosend the drivers side tensioner, shoved it as far as it would go, then retightened the bolt to hold the tensioner back off the belt. I made sure to take careful note of where the cam pullys were. (#1TDC just for my own reference), then carfully slipped that belt off the pump and tucked it out of the way. Installed new pump.(in my case I did not want to screw around with just a gasket) It was a little tricky getting the belt back on the tensioner and oil pump and making sure nothing changed on the cam pully, but it worked. Just had to pay attention. It worked for me. Like I said, I did it this way mostly out of ignorance, I had never been into the fron of my engine before. But the belts only had 12000 miles on them so why disasemble any more than I had too? Pyro

Some rural small Napa stores do NOT carry it. However it maybe found at a tiny rural parts house in Central Oregon known to be run by "two bald guys and a dog", as described in the "Bend" Yellow pages. Of course this helps no one, but may be found amusing by some one. Or not. PYro

Cool and thanks. I thought so. Just went through all of the stuff there, and everything looked right. Ya'll think that's an ok place to shop or would I better off elsewhere? Thanks again, Pyro

When I go to the Auto Parts Warehouse website, and click along to set up for my car (85 GL Wagon), all I see is Leone, Loyale, of which my car niether. Or is it? So am I in the right catagory for my car, or am I missing something? I'll try to incluce a link to where I been going http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/parts.jsp?year=1985&make=SU&model=LOY-4WD-001&category=K&showChildren=False And is this outfit know to sell reliable parts and are they reputable? Thanks guys Pyro

Speaking of worn out master cylinders, who has rebuild kits for these? We used to just hone the bore and drop in new rubber. Part#? (I have a shot in the butt extra one I want to rebuild. Yea, we chased mushy pedal for a couple hours before figuring out bad master. Love my donor car! Even then for great pedal had to adjust rear shoes. Pyro

Speaking of hot bearing,(and hubs) what temperature should a hub with everything running ok be? Mine are running hotter than I would anticipate. Too hot to hold your fingers on long, but not so hot so as to smoke or fry spit. Whats normal? Thanks

I did a Google search, "Distributor Re-curve". Some (not a great lot, but some) interesting reading. Apparently, there are kits availiable for for some cars. Toyota R-22 for example. This whole thing sounds worth looking into further.

You had the dizzy what? Re-curved? Ok, tell us who have no idea what you are talking about (am I the only one?) what that is please. Sure sounds very much like a proceedure many of us EA82 owners might be interested in, no? Thanks, Pyro

Thanks for the great link! Informative Pyro

Well ya learn something everyday. I didn't know that. I'd be interested to know the mechanics or thermodynamics or whatever of how that works. I mean just how does overpacking a bearing area cause risk of overheating? I'm not disputing this, just really like to understand things. Pyro

After repacking the front bearings on my 85 wagon, think I may prefer the Timken tapered bearing style. I don't like how it seems to be impossible to realy examine these ball bearings for pits or wear. I remember decades ago when my father was first showing me how to wrench he told me that tapered bearing will last indefinatly IF they are never run dry, never run loose or too tight, and never overheated. I'm not saying he was correct, though maybe he is. The ball bearings I just punched out of my knuckles seemed to still have enough grease, I just wanted to make sure everything seemed ok in there and I needed an axle too. Did ball joints and suspension bushings and tie rod ends at the same time. Lot of work but worth every minute just know. Pyro

Both my 85 and 86 wagons have rear shoe adjusters that still worked automaticly. Just back up fast and slam on the brakes a few times. I was suprised they still worked, I read hear on the board that often the auto adjusters are shot and rusty, and thats one reason (amongst others) that so many folks go to disk in back. (which I hope to do some day) Pyro

Shortly after I did the same thing as you with mine, I found out (here on the board) that one is supposed to use a relay, which I did not. Since it has never shown any sighns of overheating (YET) I have not gotten around to figuring out how to do that. Another niggling little detail. Been busy rebuilding/restoring suspension. Ill get to it though. We don't need no stinking fires. Which I guess is what COULD happen, without a relay. Pyro

Don't know if you have shoes or disk in back, but if shoes, you may need to adjust them. My 85 had sponge untill I adjusted shoes, and this after trying/checking everything else possible. Adjusting rear shoes fixed it. Pyro

Our family has sworn by them for generations. Get them free at junkyards. Use them for weights when bottom fishing off jettys at the coast................ Oh, in cars? Nope........well maybe when I was a kid. Pyro

for streetability and mild off road? I've been digging through all tire posts, stickys and such, and am getting the impression that 27" tires seems to be a fairly common tire height for those who wish to compromise. '85 GL, EA82, de-emissioned Hitache breather opened up to breath better, hopefully weber later with custom exhaust (soon to be PK lifted/3x3, ) 5p DR. Streetability is actually a "little" more important for this rig than off-road capability. Am currently running at 24.5". First gear (hi) is a little doggy, but not bad. When running 27"s or taller, what make these EA82's streetable? The Weber? (and whatever combination of mods creates that extra HP?) In other words, I want to know if I am getting it. The impression I am under so far, is that without that extra HP, (which I understand how to get, just not quite there yet) run taller tires, your running a dog. Is this correct? Thanks for comments Pyro

I personally do NOT recomend the "strongest" locktite. I think that would be a mistake. If any loctite use the one that says "disassemble with hand tools". The strongest locktite will require the use of heat. I could be wrong. Actualy, probably just torque to spec is good enough. Before you decide, see what these other fellers say. Lots of 'em know way more than me. But some of them locktite products are darn near permanent. Pyro

Well it comes and goes now. (the TOD, that is) Verified yesterday that this is a longblock transplant with only 1200 miles on it. Then it sat for 5 years. Was mail delivery car. Nothing but stop and go. Low RPM. Dirty. Questionable maintenence, as in oil changes. Who knows. swaped out drivers side knuckle with control arm/axle/disc. Cured "pulling to the left" problem. Current theory on TOD is gunk in lifters. Theory on solution: Drive it. Change oil often. Possibly try ATF at later date. "IF" that doesn't get it, will check O rings in cam tower and clean out that little valve thats supposed to be in there. But I think it's gonna go away with use and time. Again, thanks for all the help folks. Appreciate it. Pyro

What is the best method of dealing with positive crankcase ventilation when stripping these motors of excess stuff? I just ran one big hose direct from (new) PCV valve to drivers side valve cover and installed small filtered breather on passenger side valve cover. It seemed logical, but I know I don't know much, and am concerned about long term detrimental consequences with this "invention". Thanks, Pyro Never mind. Stupid me, I didn't search before I asked. Sorry. Search yielded good results. Looks like what I'm doing, though perhaps not "best", will work.

Hey Roobaflu, did you find the cause of this, get it straightened out? Just wondering. Pyro

I parked all afternoon. Wanted to run to the store this eve. It's back. So much to learn. Pyro

Well,well,well. Guess what. I get to eat the ultimate humble pie. It's full of crow too. (I mean even more-so than before!) Did a down and dirty, wham bam oil pump instalation today. (didn't take any belts off, just locked the tensioner on drivers side up, slipped that belt out of the way, pulled the pump, stuck in the new one, made sure cam to crank relationship stayed the same) And guess what? Well most of you already know what. Silence. Blessed silence. Hail Mother and pass the gravey holy cow. Yoose all correct, my bad. Skeptical showme dude, that be me. I will never, perhaps, understand how the heck a collapsed lifter winds up being the noisiest down at the bottom of the oil pump. But apparently it is so. And furthermore, in spite of the the recent reading I did here at USMB, some thread, ancient or otherwise, where some feller allieviated the dreaded TOD with a pump reseal or some such, and then went on to proclaim a distinct increase in low in torque, only to whohawed and told "not possible", .....................well, I have it too! Increased low end torque that is. (as measured by the seat of me pants. I'd swear to it. Not a great lot mind you, but it's there. My theory has something to do with colapsed lifter, that cylender not preforming correctly, somehting vague and unscientific like that. And the noise comeing from the oilpump? Somebody said something about an echo chamber effect, so who knows. Or maybe it was the pump itself clacking along like the gates of hell in some evil hurricane. I DONT KNOW. And right now, I'm just happy. And humbled. Thank you Ladies and Gents. And you others too. Thank you. And again, please, please, forgive my ever-so skeptical nature. As I have previously stated, I have ancestors from MO. And indeed,.......I have been shown. Silence. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Pyro

100% appropriate. Your right, and I was wrong. With the attitude I mean. And I apologize for that. Your are also right of course about the HLA's being where you say they are. Geeze, I'm getting grumpier and grumpier the more I work out in the snow. Sorry. I need to just read and study and stay away from the keyboard when I'm like that. The noise when listened for with a mechanics stethascope APPEARS to be coming from the oil pump. But I know how decieveing that might be. New oil pump was ordered yesterday and will be here today at noon. IknowIknow, might only need a gasket. I might have to change my user -name to "overkill". Some of you probably think it should be "jerk" or "wongleflute" or--well, you get it. But I'm gonna change that. Youll see. Any way, the most important thing I have to say to all of you, (and I'm gonna capitalize this so it looks like yelling, cause I really, REALLY want all of you that have helped me here with this project to understand that I mean it from the bottom of my grizzeled old black heart!) THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP! YOU ARE ALL GREAT, THIS IS A GREAT PLACE, AND I COULDN'T HAVE GOTTEN THIS FAR WITHOUT YOU! There are literaly hundreds of years of accumulated knowledge here. I don't intend to screw up the privelage of tapping into that with my grumpy attitude. If you guys knew me personally, you would understand why the attitude gets out of hand sometimes, but to start explaining would be whining, so I'll shut the heck up now, and just say thanks again. I'm gonna have one of the coolest (old) Soobs in Central Oregon, (that I know of anyway) and it's thanks to you guys. Pyro