pyromanic

That's good to know, thanks for that. The only reason I worry is from reading a few or a couple of posts from others that complain about webers and winter.

Hey, you got your AA wheels or are you just thinking ahead? Did you get in on the "group buy"? Edit: I checked the old Group Buy list, and see that yes, you did group buy. Those should be here soon, yes? Can't wait. Well, I can of course, but it's hard. I'm thinking 'bout tires too, but for my lifted wagon. Pyro

Thanks for the replys gents. Well, I would not consider hireing a local shop to do the build, yes at $60 to $100 and hour. Not when a CCR longblock is so complete and runs around $1100. And they have such a strong reputation. I was just wanting to understand how much one might save doing most of the work oneself. I really am leaning toward the CCR option. Being kinda old and slow and crippled, and then factoring my time, CCR looks good. On the other hand, the sense of satisfaction of doing it oneself plus the knowledge gained (that is if I was successful) would be ommited if I do a CCR. I just wish I knew how much time or miles or reliability I have left on this engine, what with the crank walk. It worries me. Much to consider Again, thanks guys, Pyromanic

Yes, La Pine. Common bumper sticker around here is availiable at hardware store and elsewhere: "La Pine Oregon, Life on the Edge" Nobody knows on the "edge" of what. Civilization? Sanity? Oh well. I've got one on my truck. Pyro

Yea, it was crazy luck. Probably one in a million. Bear in mind this is a little discount parts house in a little podunk town with only two parts houses. (NAPA across the hiway from the discount joint) Like I said, somebody ordered these items a while ago, then changed their mind. Both items were pretty dusty. The other crazy luck was that this used weber was internaly in great condition, and made my car run like a raped ape. It was running pretty rich at first, but using Redlines tuning instructions, I think (hope) I've resolved that. Low end was encreased very significantly. But much like some others experience, top was not, untill------ I kept fooling around with my jury rigged linkage, and found that I was not utilizing that last 1/4 of the throttle at the carb. Had to make some adjustments under the accelerator pedal. (very haywire, almost embarresing, but it worked) Now that I'm utilizing the entire range of the carb, top end is much increased as well. At this point, I couldn't be happier. Miliage appears, so far, to be about the same, or slightly worse. However, I'm quite concerned about cold weather when it arrives. My manual choke instalation seems to be fine and trouble free, but it's summer. I'm looking into aquiring Redline Part #99010.301 [universal intake adapter, weber DGV series]., thinking that this would enable me to adapt a stock Soob airbox (or something) to it, and then use a preheat tube down to the punched out cat heatshield. But that Redline part is probably going to hard or impssible to find. Just thinking. Pyro

OK, so I need a new motor. (still runs, but knocks because of crank walk) I've been running carb. I have in my hands a complete EFI harness, intake stuff and computor. (well, not in hands, but still in a donor) Might do the swap someday if I ever learn enough to try it, or get the appropriate help. (I simply do not have the knowledge to do that at this time) So what happens if I install a EFI motor, and put my weber on it? (or for that matter go back to the Hitache) The EFI block has better compression right? Does this equate to more horses? Bad idea? Much to learn Pyro

if I decide to rebuild a spare EFI EA82 block I have sitting around? I have freshly built heads from a Carbed motor, can I just use those? I've taken far too much time away from my business to completly freshen the suspension of my driver, but I need a motor. So---1100 bucks for a CCR longblock, one day to install,--------- Or how much dough build it myself? (and obviously a lot more time, i'm no proffesional mechanic nor a guru,-- I work slow) Thanks, Pyro

Really, the old timers (I will be one soon, or maybe I'm in denial?) used to use to run deisel or kerosene all the time as an engine flush. The key words in the above quote is probably "a few seconds". Take heed if you try it. "A few seconds". Still, I'm convinced there are safer ways. I don't mean safer in regards to explosions, just safer for your crank bearings. Also bear in mind that most if not all commercial engine flush treatments are "diesel like" or "kerosene like" products. This is pretty much indisputable. But don't they tell you to "add to" the oil in the crankcase? That's why they run some amount of miles, or an entire oil change duration, as aposed to "a few seconds", like the old times did with straight deisel or kerosene. Probably (I think) the best or at least the cheapest engine flush is add some ATF to crank case oil, but his has probably already been mentioned. But my problem seems to be that somebody did a complete re-seal and head job, and never touched the bottom end. (this is speculation) Hence great oil pressure, no leaks, runs strong, great compression, but it knocks. Crank walk. Very frustrating, as I was told by seller it had a new engine. Turns out not. Mostly new, but------how long will it run? It's a crap shoot.

Folks have been flushing the internal combustion engines crankcase with diesl for ever. I don't believe anybod has ever been blown up. Never heard of one case. However, I don't do it. I think you gotta be way quick with this harsh treatment. Can destroy bearings very quickly, so I'm told and sounds logical to me. Think thers safer less harsh ways. But explosions? Don't think so. Pyro

And yes, I found the torque spec for the ring nut in my chilton's. Thanks guys for the help. Also, I found mine through a link provided by someone in some post. If you search for it you should be able to find it. It was some online specialty tool company. Also read a post a few days ago about how to make one from a GI pin tool. Just had to grind off the extra tabs. I now have one side done, new wheel bearings, new axles. Tell the truth, that pin tool doesnt provide a great deal of purchase. I see that Chilton's just recomends using a punch or chisel. Pin tool worked pretty good to get the nut out, but really couldn't get enough torque on the darn thing to re-tighten it to spec. Used a big brass punch and MFH. (medium xxxxxx hammer) Question: After examining the entire rear bearing setup, and seeing that the ringnut is torqed so high, I'm thinking that it not a pre-loaded bearing assembly. Yet it's a Timken syle tapered bearing set up. I guess I don't get it. Just hope I got it right. Think so. Oh, and I'll be keeping the tool, just in case. Pyro

Sorry for the confusion, couldn't remember, it's a "ring nut" yes. I too have disk. We both have ring nuts behind the rear bearings. Pyro

What? Are we talking about the same thing? I thought that the nut behind the drum put a "pre-load" on the bearings. Are you talking about the axle nut? I'm not. Or am I just confused about what that back nut that uses the "pin socket tool" does. Pyro

I bought the pin tool a couple of months ago, and just ordered the rear bearings. When I get the berings in, what's the torque spec on that wierd back nut that you use the pin tool on and stake? ('85 GL wagon) Thanks

Yes. AND I have great oil pressure and compression. Pyro

When I started working on this car, it steered like a tractor in a newly plowed field. So I first installed new tires and non-warped rotors. Then I found a bent rim on the front. Swapped it for straight. Then tie rod ends, sway arm bushings new wheel bearings and ball joints. Low miliage strutts and shocks. Then an allighnment. Steering was just a touch vague, but only at hiway speed. SAlso had too much annoying torque steering and acel and decel. Even on downshifts. Crap, whats left? Leading rod bushings. Apparently original. Replaced them this AM with OEM. Steering feels as new now. Woopie!!!! Twas a long time comin. And guess what. I learned how to do all here on the board. Thanks. Pyro.

Hmm. I don't really know what the heck I got. I have great compression. Zero oil leaks. Excellent oil pressure. And crank walk. (crank can be moved back to front a few thousandths) And I do indeed have a knock. It disapears at operating temp. This was supposed to be a new engine. And except for the knock, it seems like it is. A puzzle indeed. Why the heck would somebody do a rebuild and re-install a worn or defective thrust bearing? Oh well, it runs fine, so far. Pyro

I got two Soobs with water droplets (condensation?) inside one headlight. I aquired them during winter snowy season, so didn't worry. I figured when hot weather came it would just disapear. Nope. no cracks either. How to get rid of it? At least bulbs are holding so far. Pyro

Thanks Rick, yea those magnetic ones are super handy. Used to have a couple back when------ I'm actually suprised they were working down to -30!! Never been anywhere it got that cold for more than one or two nites a year. And there cheap too!! I like the idea or something that circulates the water through the block. Then the whole engine is warm. Just seems better that only warm oil, which I think what you get with the magnetic ones. But minus 30------whew! I'm too old for that crap anyhow! Pyro

Yea, I've heard that those are probably the best, as compared to splicing into the heater hose. Where in the block do they screw in? Pyro

So I have now got this Weber running pretty good. Thers still some linkage work to do to take full advantage of WOT, but I'm getting happier every mile. Also need to find a higher quality choke cable, this cheapy I found is kinda sticky. Speaking of chokes, I am concerned about the coming winter and cold weather. Figure I should educate myself regarding block heaters. We live around 6000 ft elevation, and I expect cold starting problems once the snow comes. So whats the "ultimate block heater" setup? Pyro

So with conventional engines, say a small block Chevy, worn main bearings will result in low oil pressure. (amongst other things) What I would like to know is with these Soobs (EA 82) external oil pump, can an engine have worn mains and still show good oil pressure? In other words, is good to excellent oil pressure indicative of main bearing wear/lack of wear? Thanks Pyro

Well then, I guess that proves that yours was TOD. Oil pumps don't fix bearing, crank, or piston skirt noise. (I have been told that piston slap is nearly no-existant in these engines) Maybe a good question is how to tell the difference. One way has already been mentioned, listen with a screwdriver or mechanics stethascope to track it down. I'd just hate to see somebody spend the dough on a new oil pump trying address a bearing problem. Pyro

If you can find another fuel pump to install inline, why not just replace the one in the rear with the new one? Or am I missing something. Just seems like it would be easier. Good luck Regards, Pyro

You could get tied up for days reading all the questions and answers about ticking/clacking/knocking. What folks here cal TOD is lifter noise. Hope thats what you got. If not, could be anything from rod knock, crank walk, to piston slap or even mains. I say if it goes away when it's warmed up, ride it till it dies. And if every week it's getting a little louder, start preparing for a new engine or a major rebuild. Good luck and have fun! Regards Pyromanic

Poppycock and boulderdash. And as the Britts say, "rubbish". Of course that's just my opinion. Pyro