pyromanic

Ok, I checked ALL the darn fuses, they are all good. So I'm wondering why the fuel guage and the voltmeter would crap out at the same time? What am I missing? I HATE non working gas gauges. Hope it's something simple, but whatever it is, I'm not getting it yet. Anybody? Help? Thanks, Pyro

Thanks Couger. I'll get back in there and check out fuse box more carefully. Hope it's just a fuse. Pyro

I drove my 85 wagon 60 miles yesterday, and everything was fine. Needed to take her on a short errand this morning, and fuel guage says she's full (she's not) and volt meter is pegged down at 8 vlts, which is the bottome of the guage. When my alternator died a few months ago, the tach freaked out. The tach and everything else seems to be working fine, lights are bright, and she started right up, just those two guages seem to be dead. If it's a blown fuse, I didn't find it when I checked the fuses, but maybe I didn't check the right ones. I cleaned the battery terminals, and that didn't help. Where should I be looking to fix these two guages? any tips appreciated Pyro

NOW I think the inbox is fixed. Tried before but it didn't take. This weekend would be fine. Try the inbox for phone # and directions again if you need them, or to confirm your ETA. Yes I have a bumper from an 87. Pyro

Mailbox is now empty. But to answer your question, it was all dusty, had been sitting on a rack for years in a two bit tiny independent one horse parts house here in podunk La Pine. Feller behind the counter said it had been a special order that got abandoned. My good luck. They had a dusty old Weber 32/36 rebuild kit hanging up there too, which I snagged of course. I think I saw one down at S&S Parts (there on sounth 97) in Bend a few months ago too, if I'm right, it's probably still there. But I thought Redline Weber was back in production and these were now totally availiable? Am I wrong about that? Hey, still want that motor? Pyro

I thought I had read somewhere around here that one reason these thermo switches failed rather frequently was that there is NO relay, that the switch takes the whole load. Is that wrong? Certainly they would last longer WITH a relay, than without. Pyro

I want to see some pics of this work. Is that possible? Anybody? Pyro

I see pictures both with and without the expanded metal between the tubes. Do the bumpers come with that or is it extra? Pyro

Bump 1) Don't know, sorry. 2) Yes.

I think Redline sets 'em up like this: Primary idle 50 secondary idle55 main prime140 prime second 135 air pime170 air second160 Thats close anyway. It's buried in the "frequently asked questions" part of the offroad section. Hard to find. Took me hours. But that's what I'm running now in my DGV manual choke. It's working well too. Good luck. Pyro

And wouldn't a skid plate prevent snow drifts from screwing with the belts with no covers? Pyro

Hi, I can't really help, but instead will share some of my limited experience with the Hitache. One of the first things I did when I got my wagon was de-emmission the carb. I wanted to clean up the engine compartment, and also the EGR was hashed anyway so I capped it off. I left nothing but brake booster and vacume advance. It seemed to run fine all summe. But when the cold weather came, I had very erratci idle. It seemed to be searching. I pretty stoopid about carbs. I've since gone to a Weber DGV, and am very happy. (Finding the proper Jetting took some time, but all seems well.) I have no idea what the trouble was with the hitache. Wish I did. Maybe somebody else can comment on that? Good luck, Pyro

If you can stand on your head and get your face right up against the gas pedal, you can shine a light to the right then, and see the rod that goes to the (flapper) thingy. My slider stuck, then something broke, it was'n't the gear on the cable end, but on the rod end. So, went to one of my parts cars, and unfortuneately broke the gear on the cable end trying to get it off, but manged to salvage the part on the rod end. It's wierd little plastic thingy that "clips" onto the rod, and engages the gear on the cable. I know that's a poor discription, but it's what I went through. If I ever have to do it again, I think it will go better. Now if the flapper inside the blower box is hashed for some reason, then your pulling the dash I think maybe? Or did I even understand your question correctly? Well, I tried. I do remember that when the slider stopped working, I searched the archives considerably, and found some (which of course is better than none!) useful info. good luck, and hope this helps in some small way Pyro

These are the things I can thing of that you must make sure are in good shape before an alighnment can be of any use: Leading rod bushings Tie rod ends Wheel bearings Ball joints I get the impression that a lot of folks miss the leading rod bushings. Replacing them can get rid of a bunch of different odd handling problems. Cheap and easy too. And chances are that if YOU havn't replaced them, nobody else has. But my main point is that unless ALL of these components are in good condition, an allighnment is useless. Also brakes. When I started restoring my 85 wagon, one of the first things I did was replace ALL those above mentioned components. Then 4 new axles. Exensive, but this one's a keeper, and now I don't have to worry about any of that stuff for years. Good luck Pyro

Me too! I wanna do this. Is there a write up somewhere? Can't find as many writeups as I used too, but then too I seem to be getting dumber as time passes. Pyro

Here's what I think about that, and first let me tell ya I'm far from being an expert. In fact I didn't know squat about carbs when I started trying to get my used Weber to work on my lifted wagon. If you buy a new one from a supplier that provides the carb jetted for your engine, then your in good shape, and have a base to begin tuning. I'm getting the impression that ther's not much farther to go from there. Probably won't have to change much, if anything. Maybe just some adjustments. On the other hand, if you pick up a used one from a different rig, then you have no idea where your at. Or where to start. This was my case anyway. What really took the most time for me, was trying to find out what jet's were SUPPOSED to be in there. Once I found that information on the board here (I had to dig, it took a while), then tore the carb down, and replaced the jets with what I was told Redline puts in for our Soobs, every thing started to work much better. There's a huge amount of information over on the "Off road" section. Good luck and have fun. Pyro

Yea, now that I finally figured out the jetting, I love my Weber!! Regarding the FI conversion, I read the manual, and decided I'm too stoopid to handle the electronics. Pyro

Well, I finally got brave enough to start studying on my used weber. (I have little experience with working on carbs) Took it off the shelf and tore it down. Installed the rebuild kit. While I was at it, I checked out all the jets, to see what was in there. On my wagon, it started hard, stumbled on acceleration, and so on. It had run, but not well. (though when I first put it on, a few months ago, it had so much more low end torque, that I got exited. But after driving it a few days, I realized I had much to learn, and tuning to do, but no time, so put the de-emissioned Hitache back on. Which sucked too.) The guy I got the weber from had never run it, and was told it had been on a VW baha type rig. Here's what I found when I tore it down: Primary idle 55 Secondary idle 50 Main prime 140 Secondary prime 135 Air prime 160 Air secondary 165 I found specs for what Redline puts in them for our Soobs, so shot for that. My local parts store had most of what I wanted. Now it has: Primary idle 50 secondary idle55 main prime140 prime second 135 air pime170 air second160 I had to order a main 140 from carbs unlimited, though I don't know what to expect when installed, and I'm reluctant to pull the top off again, it's running so great now. and things are much much improved. No stumble whatsoever. Pulls great in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. 4th is still a little doggy, but improved. I'm lifted with 27s so 5th is about useless anyway. Idles smooth. I'm happy camper. Now to burn up a tank of gas, and check mileage. Oh, and it's a manual choke, and at 18 degrees this morning, after pumping the gas at full choke, she started immediatly. I don't know much, but I'm learning!! Now then, what about these plenums? http://shop.knfilters.com/KNShop/Product.aspx?pid=85-8927 Jeeze, they look nice, but at 180 bucks or something, definatly not worth it! I'd like to find a used one! (ROFL!) Fat chance eh? Like a snowball in, well, you know. Anyways, I couldn't have pulled off getting this car running the way she is without this board and and all the great info here. Thanks guys. Pyro

Idle hunting Hitache's are a ***************. How'd ya make out on this? I took my antique DGV Weber off for the winter and am back to a "idle hunting Hitache", so I'm curious if this problem got fixed?

I found this old post and was wondering if anybody knows what happened with this "new" carb?

I like the grill. Made one just like it. It's fire engine red. Wagon is silver. Rear bumper is spar varnished 8" hollow pine log. Black AA wheels Pyro

I bought a steering pump rebuild kit from my Soob dealer a year or so ago. It was like 20 bucks or something. Have no idea part #. The kit included gasket between res and pump, which I didn't need or use. Pyro

Figgured this one could use a bump. Oh, and tranny changes aint so bad. Go for it. The AT's suck. (opinion) Don't know about yer miliage. 19's not so good though. Pyro

We've heard a few reports from those who have had no luck with their weber's in cold weather. Some are going to EFI. I'd like to find out how many folks have a webber and it's NOT hard to start their Soobs in cold weather. which weber? Which choke? Thanks, Pyro

I consider the pin wrench socket an extravence and frivolity. A stout brass punch or drift works fine for me. (I have the pin socket, and didn't care for it). Pyro