pyromanic

No. Yes, it's a PIA to pull the hub apart, but really, if you want to able to depend on your car, it's the thing to do. Pyro

I PM'd Allied last week with the same question. I will share his response by cutting and pasting since I know we all are wondering. His response is as follows: Im still waiting for the call. But they should be sent out in the next 7-14 days (I never know for sure). I hate to keep people waiting, but they'll be here soon. JM Allied Armament Quote: Originally Posted by pyromanic Hey man, how's it going? Any sighn of those rims yet? I'm gettn exited thinking about tires, so just thought I'd check in. Pyro

Thanks for the reply Miles. Yes, intakes bolt on the same, but does the intake for a man trans flow any better than the intake for a auto trans? I'm doubting it, and thinking that they are identical, but dumb question or not, had to ask. Ok, yes, I had heard that the spfi block will gain compression. So higher compression means some more ponys correct? Just wondering how many, if anybody knows. Thanks again

I bought a kit from the Soob dealer in Bend. (they are generaly cold and unknowledgable Re: older soobs, to me anyway, but then maybe I lool like an ax murderer to them, who knows) It was cheap, but then you don't get much either. The main seal is behind the pully on the shaft. Held in with a clip. Thats where my leak was. I didn't even replace the gasket that comes with the kit for between the resivoir and the pump. You also get a couple of O rings. I think I used one of them. Every has seemd fine for 1000 miles now. Good luck. Pyro

Hi, #1 Is there any difference in the carbed intake manifolds between, say, '86 EA82 auto trans and manual? The reason I ask is that I have done the tranny swap to manual. Should I be looking for an intake from a manual trans engine? #2 If I swap to an EFI block, and keep the webber, how much HP might be gained? Thanks, Pyro

Hey Rick, I know you have enough on your plate, and even specificly requested no comments on rebuild repair and such, but just thought I'd mention, (in case you don't know) that rebuild kits are 25 bucks or less and very simple and quick. They consist of only a gasket a couple of O rings and a seal. Takes about 1/2 hour to do. I carry one now in my kit. For what it's worth or for future reference. Pyro

Thats a good question for which I don't know the answer. So instead, just in case it helps even a little, I pose this rhetorical question. What makes ATF stop leak work? I don't know that either. But I wonder if what ever the conditions are in an Auto Trans that make the stuff work are present in a power steering unit? Does it require some degree of heat? If so, (and remember, I have no idea) does a power steering pump generate enough heat like a tranny? Hmm. I'll shut up now cause I bet this isn't helping. Well I tried. Sort of. Good luck and safe travels Pyro

Ya know, that's a darn good point. Recycling a 20 year old car IS good thing eh? Maybe makes up for some of the "non-green" things we do to them for preformance AND esthetics. Pyro-maybenotsohypocritic-manic

I learned everything I know about Soobs by searching this board. If you have time to do some reading you will discover that getting rid of emmisions control devices and eqipment has, at times, been a hotly debated subject. There is literaly hours of material here. The equipment IS there for a reason. Weather or not the reason is important to you, is up to you. I really don't like to reccomend getting rid of this stuff. I have grandchildren. I do indeed want them to have non-poisenous air to breath when they grow up. With that said, I run a weber, no emmisions control. The engine will run with no vacume lines except brake boost and vacume advance. PCV is a good idea too. And I hear that plugging the fuel tank vent can cause probs. Does it run as well as WITH all those emmisions control systems? That is relative. Everything is. Pyro-hipprocrit-manic All of the above are my opinions only, and worth exactly what you paid for them.

Speaking of scoops, hear's an trippy one. Looks like he's out of them right now, but he keeps getting more. Think I'll try one on the Pig. I've got three hoods, so if it winds up looking stupid I don't have to keep it. The K&N on my Weber didn't fit under the hood so I cut a hole in one hood yesterday. Already running cooler. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7983749965&category=33646 Pyro

On days I can afford it, I like new stuff. On the off days, I rebuild. Some days are so bad, have to use used. Pyro

That is definately not too high for EA 82 engines. I suspect your engine is ok too. Pyro

My car runs fine without the cannister. Others do it too. Pyro

Thanks for the reply. Ring and pinion are in the rear diff, right? (I don't know, that's why I ask) If so, I changed diffs. No difference. Well, I think it's worse in 4th and 5th gears, but how can I tell if it's gear related or speed related? See what I mean? The more I think about this, the more I think I maybe ought to just try the other trans I have. Seems like I've tried everything else. Pyro

Are there bearings in the axle stubs on each side of the DR 5 speeds that are easily replaced? And if so, can these become worn and "whine"? This is a junk yard tranny of unknown miles and maintenece. I still have some noise. Sounds kind of like tire noise, but I think it isn't. All axles new. All wheel bearings new. Changed drive lines and rear diff. Still some "whining". One might describe this sound as a "pulsating thrumming". The pulsating aspect only occurs at highway speeds. It's pretty annoying. Definatly has a deeper tone than tire whine. I'm stumped. I have another DR 5 sp I could pull out of a donor car if that would be the best aproach. And besides, the one I'm using is a bit notchy, even after trying all flushes and synthetics. Anything else that could be causing this bit of "whining"? Thanks, Pyro

Thanks Miles!! You did agreat job at explaining this. Big brother is not very understanding of my Soob passion. He just can't comprehend why anyone would want to put all this time, money and energy into an old "Jap econobox". Pyro

Ok, thanks to the board and HTI Johnson, I have done the rear disk swap on my lifted 85 wagon. So last week I drove to my brothers on the other side of the mountains. The rear disk conversion was a big improvement. I was showing off my mods, and my bro had a question I couldn't answer. And for what it's worth, big bro is an old hot rod builder from the 60's. He knows way more than me, but not much specificaly about Soobs or Japanese cars in general. He pointed out that stuff under the chassis on the drivers side that all the brake lines go to. Darn, I wish I could find my notes, but lost them. I just can't remember what he said that stuff was called. A "something or other actuator?" It's looks kinda like a master cylinder or valve. His point was, he said, that cars with drum brakes have this thing. Cars with 4 wheel disk do not. He said that when converting to 4 wheel disk, that valve is left out of system, bypassed, or the pads will drag. Premature wear. Does anybody know what I'm talking about? Does he? Thanks, Pyro

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I had the exact same problem untill I put in new leading rod bushings. Those are what the most difference for my car. Cheap and easy. Got em a t NAPA. Maybe 12 bucks a side or something like that. Sway bar bushings made no difference. Pyro

Mine didn't. It never occured to me that the geometry needed to be kept the same. I just cut the ends off of the stock one, and welded up a longer one out of heavier bar stock. So what kind of problems can arise from the new weird geometry? Pyro

Yea, I'm with that. Cooler is better. For me. But what I want to know is can a cooler thermoswitch be obtained?

It DID do fine over the pass. Bend to Albany through Sweet Home, back through Salem, Detroit and such. Never even gave a cough. Ran great. The only grade that slowed me down was Hogg Rock up outa Suttle Lake. Had to shift down for most of that, and run at 45 and 50. Bigger than stock tires don't help with that. Any way I'm pleased. I still wanna try EFI though, just to compare. Oh, and I got like 23 MPG, unadjusted for the bigger tires. Pyro

Hey Xoomer, Can't help ya with your car, I drive a wagon, But I just wanted to say this: Thank you for your service. I mean it. Thanks man. Later, Pyro

Now HTI, you know perfectly well your dumb questions dont hold a candle to my dumb questions. Though I WAS gone a few days. Maybe I need to catch up? I think I got a bunch of REALLY dumb questions worked up on my first road trip in the Hoola. Anyway, welcome Outlaw!! Nice to meetcha! PyrothoughtIwaskingofdumbquestionsmanic

Yea, altitude. I may give this weber a perfect altitude test. I need to do an overnighter in my old hometown, Albany. Whats the elevation there, maybe 400 ft. So from La Pine, over the pass at maybe 7000 or 8000, down to 300 or 400, and back. Heck, could even try to go on to the coast. Wonder if it will even run at sea level!!?LOL. It ran fine in Bend, so that's 1000 ft drop. Havn't been anywhere else yet though. Pyro