pyromanic

from like six months ago still availiable somewhere? It might have even been longer ago, not sure, but I'm remembering a while back Allied Armament posted a pick of his front tube bumper they were making, and now that got a MIG welder I wanna make my own. But I can only find three pages of "off road" threads now. Where's the older stuff or how might I find those pics if there still around? thanks Pyro

I had the exact same problem with the rear washer on my 85 wagon ever since I got it a couple years ago. Never did figure it out. Kept thinking I'd get around to it eventually. Guess it doesn't matter anymore though as the freakn wiper quit on me last month. I give up. Pyro

Yea, that sounds right to me. Steep angles would maybe wear out the joints too fast also, correct? I'm only lifted 3 inches, so might not be a problem. Truth is, I don't know. But before I'd spend two bill on a new carrier, think I'll look into one piece custom drive line. (unless somebody advises against it that is) PS. I just brought home a wire feed MIG welder!!!!!!!! 90 bucks and a beat up Ruger 10/22 I didn't use anymore! Woohooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's not a Lincoln, but at that price (everything works) I'm happy! Pyro

I don't know why, but when I did my 5sp DR swap from auto and then the lift, I looked at that bearing and said to my self, "bet that's gonna be hard to find if I ever have to replace it." Personally, I don't care to much for the idea of JY bearings, but that's just me. I care less for the idea of $200 bearings though!! Fortunately I don't need one right now, which is surprising to me, as the one I'm running has a couple hundred thou on it. I think when either U joints or carrier bearing bite the dust, I'll just switch to custom one piece drive line. Make sense? Pyro

Thought I'd start a new thread on this to thank GD and let anyone who was following in on how it all came out. I jumped in on a thread regarding timing EA-82's, and reported that I too had been running the vacumume advance hose off the manifold. In my case it was because I mistakenly believed that my Weber had no ported vacume for the advance. General Disorder insisted that I MUST have one, and helped me to identify where it should be. Turned out, the barb, or fitting was missing, but the port was there, I just didn't realize it, or know where to look. The area is so low on the front of the carb, and difficult to access because of the power steering pump, I pulled the carb this morning, cleaned out the recess, and sure enugh, a tiny hole through the carb, just above the throttle plate, just like he had said! I had no idea how a fitting for the hose was supposed to attached, but I came up with a small roll pin the correct diameter, compressed it, stuck it in, and theres the barb for the hose! I was getting ready to reinstall the carb, when it vaguely dawned on me that a year ago, when I got the carb and put in a rebuild kit, that I hadn't quite got the jets right, but it ran, and I had let it go. This morning I couldn't remember for sure, but I thought that way back then, I had discovered that the mains, as the carb had came to me, were 140 prime, and 135 sec. So off with top of the carb. Yup, 135 and 140. So--I phone the local parts house, and lucky me, he had a 140 main. Borrowed the wifes car, ran in to town, got it installed, and started reinstalling the carb. It wasn't long before I got reminded of the jury rigged throttle cable bracket I hacked together when I first did the weber conversion, and that it was falling apart, leaving a bit of slack in the cable, thereby only utilizing maybe 75% of the availiable throttle. So, a new proper bracket needed to made. I was already greasy, so now was the time. Hmmn, where to start. Maybe under the hood of the the EFI parts wagon behind the shop? Why not, have a look. Hmm, that bracket for the throttle body looks to have some potential, needs some custom bending in the vise--------- Yup that's it! A new custom bracket installed. No more slack in the cable! No more electrical tape holding it together. Buttoned everything up, fired it up---------sounds like crap! Oops, forgot to cap off the vacume barb on the manifold that I was using for the advance! Better---- Retimed it, it was off considerably, not sure why. Set it at 10. Adjusted the carb=======went for a drive------WOW!!! It sounds and feels WAY better! I bet I got 10 15 more horses! (well, ok, maybe 4 or 5) Way better throttle response! Smoother, everything! this car is fun again! Had a bit of ping, backed it off to 8, no ping, no loss of power! Sheesh, I can actually burn rubber on pavement now! (not I can afford to, but holy crap, NO MORE GUTLESS WONDER!!!) so, it was a combination of things. Vacume advance off the manifold instead of carb. Slack in throttle cable and crappy loose bracket. and lastly, improperly jetted Weber. I'll never know how much of each issue was contributing to the general poor preformance, but one things for sure. Now I know why weberising lifted EA-82's is so popular. I can finaly turn these 27 inch tires. Thanks USMB and General Disorder! Pyro

And I forgot about that wierd nut behind the backing plate on the rears on 4x4s anyway, which I think is what pre-loads the bearings. But yea, I don't know squat about the two wheel drives, so apples to oranges. My bad. Pyro

Well, ther's no fitting there at all, the the protrusion of the aluminum casting. If start the engine, will I be able to feel vacume with my finger over the port, (if that is it is actually open through to the inside) Pyro PS I guess I have totally hyjacked this thread, and do indeed apolgise. On the other hand, I guess this discussion regards timing, so maybe nobody is too mad, but still------------sorry.

What does that mean "wheel bearings went out after i overtightened them"? The pre-load on Soob wheel bearings is engineered into the system right? You can't overtighten them. I did all four of mine right after I bought the car, and was kind of freaked out when discovered that. Or am I wrong? (it happens!!) Pyro

Thanks GD. I see now. Oh, mines a DG____something something who knows what 32/36, manual choke. The round air cleaner plate is just an adapter for a wierd double plenum for twin K&Ns. But I see where the disty port is now, both on yours and on mine. Thing is, mine is blocked off, I can tell. I probed around inside the casting collar where the barb should be, and the probe bottomed out about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. I'll have to pull the carb to find out what's actually down at the bottom of the hole, the steering pump leaves no room to see or really get in there and check it out. At least I know where it's supposed to be now, THANKS!! Oh, and mine doesn't have anything there where y our EGR is. Pyro

Thanks for your time on this. I'd really like to get this right, and for sure I don't understand everything I know. I took a pic, and will try now: Yea, ok, picture worked. See the round collar or opening behind the choke cable? Is that where the ported vacume barb should be? And there to the right is the primary idle jet, correct? Thanks for having a look, and I sure do appreciate your expertise on this, I don't know much, but I'm learning. Pyro

Wel, I'm pretty sure that I see in the casting where the port SHOULD have been. Why theres nothing there beats me. Your right, the hole is not there. But the little "collar" is there, maybe 1/4 inch diameter, and 3/8 deep. Flat in the bottom. this be easy to tap, then I could drill a TINY hole through. I have a drill press, and tiny drill bits. Seems like it could work. Sure wish I knew the exact spec on that hole. It's just a tiny hole right? Pyro

Hey GD, thanks for the response. I looked, and I think you probably mean right next to the jet on the front. There is a jet on front, "right of center" a bit, and just to the left of that is a place a hair "left of center" where there is a casting spot as though for a barb, but it's not drilled through, it's blank, or dead or whatever. It's a raised "collar" so to speak, that if drilled through would exit behind the sleave in the throat (that's a veturi, right? and I think it's removable if you take the top of the carb off), just a bit above the throttle plate. So I guess I got a wierd webber. Bet I could drill it and tap it. But how much difference would that make power wise? Pyro

Well, that brings up something regarding my 85 EA 82 wagon. I'm running a very old Weber, it has no vacume barbs anywhere on it, so I've been running the line for the advance straight off the manifold. I didn't know that was bad. Any way I can drill and tap it for a "ported barb"? Any other options? It runs ok, but more gutless that I expected. I bet it's the advance thats causing the problem. Pyro

It's my studied opinion that if EA-82 owners want meaningful oil pressure readings, the gauge in the dash must be ignored, and a mechanical guage must be installed somewhere, somehow. The guage in the dash is notoriously innaccurate, for a variety of reasons. I came to that conclusion only after reading several years worth of "oil pressure threads" here at USMB. It's not that hard to install a quality mechanical guage, and well worth it, if you love your Soob that is. And oil to an engine is like blood to us. Definately, mechanical over electric, though a new aftermarket electric is far better, I suppose than what these cars come with. Luck, Pyro

Thanks robm, for that great explanation. Any way to wind up with a ported barb on the this antique weber? But you seem to be implying that it very well may be all that important in my case. The hose is considerably longer than it needs to be, I will shorten regardless. I remember being baffled with with what to do with the darn disty advance hose when I was first trying to install the weber, what with NO vacume barbs whatsoever. I take it this is somewhat unusual. And the "ported barb" should be where exactly on the carb? And what makes it "ported"? I mean, is it just a hole in the carb somewhere? Thanks Pyro

No intent to hijack, but this thread got me thinking: My Weber is OLD, no vacume barbs at all. so I ran the disty hose for advance to a barb on the manifold, hoping, just hoping it was ok. It seems to run ok, but my valve rattle a bit too. So no I see sombody saying it's bad to run advance vacume off manifold. I'm pretty ignorant. What's the difference where you get vacume for the disty? Thanks, Pyro

work again? It was wierd. I replaced both headlamp bulbs a while ago, and then a couple of days later, the indicator in the dash for the brights stopped working. I fugure it's just a coinceidence. I know how to get the intsrament cluster out, but that's all I know. I'd love to not have to take the cluster apart. Think it's just a burnt out bulb for the indicator light, or is there more too this? Thanks a million for any tips! Pyro

You might get lucky and find that a lot of that oil could be stopped from just snugging up the oil pan bolts. They come loose sometimes. Pyro

"Someday the Outbacks and Forresters will filter down to the bottom feeders, and all will be good again... John " I just want to live long enough for "Baha's" to start turning up on the used market for 4, 5, or 6 hundred bucks, and in junkyards for cheap parts. Like EA's are now. Pyro

He he! Ya, I thought of the cab, but too noisy, and might suffocate. I was kinda suprised at how much noisier the Weber was than the Hicrappy. It really sucks. (which is good, right?) At first I thought a double plenum on top of a weber was overkill, but then I remembered how a long time ago I was fooling around with trying to make a snorkel for the weber with an intake off a SPFI on top of the carb, and it was too restrictive. Made a flat bog spot at med RPM. And the K&N single plenum job doesn't look to have a neck on it any larger than the tube of the SPFI intake, I thought, well, to make sure it gets enough air, why not two tubes to two filters? And fat silcone hose comes in all kinds of cool colors for the cool factor, not that chrome will getcha home, but come on,, what's wrong with the set up looking fun? It's IS a toy after all. (in spite of the fact that it's my dayley driver, since the chev P.U. sucks gas like a V-8. (Oh, wait a minute, it IS a V-8) My expanded metal grill is cherry red, gonna paint my front and rear calipers blue, not sure on mustache bar and rear yet. Probably blue. Car is silver. I'm thinking the snorkel hoses might oughta be canary yellow, and mount the filters up on the roof rack. Pyro

So I just ordered one of these: http://shop.knfilters.com/KNShop/Product.aspx?pid=85-8927 but from Summit, ($20.00 cheaper). Now I need to decide what to do with the two filters. Silicone hose to where ever I mount them? Where on this lifted wagon is the least dusty air availiable? It's a half a mile of super dusty road to my house from blacktop, and I run a lot of forest service roads too. For all I know, (which aint much) the least dusty place for the filters is under hood? I don't really do much in the way of puddle jumping, dust is my main concern. What do guys think, up on the roof or stay under the hood? It's a Weberised 85 wagon, PK lifted. Pyro

I don't think it's possible to hook any of those connectors up wrong. Each one is unique to itself as far as I can tell. It stopped though, just from wiggling the soldiered ends at the switch. so that may give me grief downt he road. But it's all good for now, gauges all work with the original cluster reinstalled. Guess Couger was right, just reconnecting the plugs. Don't know why I thought I could use a cluster from a 5 sp chasis in a auto chasis. Thought I had read about guys doing it. But it don't work, not with out modification anyhow. The harness is different, (of course) Thanks for the help guys. Pyro

Well impatient me, I didn't wait for an answer on my "plug and play" question on the instrament cluster auto vs. 5sp. Found out that of the two big connectors on top of the cluster, the right hand one is different. Only found this out after having everything pretty much back together. So, got the old one just about back in, thought I'd see what was gonna work and what wasn't, and how is this, the fuel and volt gauges both work again. But--------the heater fan is now running on high continuously, regardless of the switch being on or off. WTF have done? I'd like to have that other cluster in there, but I guess it's no go. Have no idea about the heater. If I can't figure it out, I'll put it all back together, and pull the fuses to the heater, which is no fix at all, but at least I could drive it. Pyro

6:30 A.M. Sunday morning, coffee, thinking I'll pull the cluster loose today, and it just came to me that I've been wanting to make some changes to this PK lifted wagon anyhow. It's my dayly driver, and I love her with a passion. She came to me with a longblock with only 12000 miles but also with a used up auto trans. First thing I did was swapped a 5 sp dual range into her. The instrament cluster is original for the auto. But I DO have an 87 5 sp. DR parts wagon here on the property. Dash is already out, cluster for that 5sp is in the shop somewhere. I'm thinking maybe this is the to make the swap? These clusters are plug and play right? I installed new Silverstar headlight bulbs a couple of months ago, and for no apparent reason, the highbeam indicator light in the dash quit on me the next day. So this old instrament cluster has really been deteriorating of late. But I'm pretty intimidated by electric stuff. Dumb as a post, and I know it. I'm scared I'll get in over my head and then have to try to bribe Hooziewatsit to come down and help me put it all back together! Hoozie, ya gotcher ears on? Got any time to come to La Pine and bail me out if I screw this up? Need any parts, both of those EA 82's are still sitting here. I'm going to go look for that other cluster. Lets see, which pile of crap might it be buried under----------- Didn't I see that multimeter last winter when I was looking for something or other------------------- (picture Soob knuckles and axles and ecu's and harneses flying out the bay doors!) Pyro

I suck at electronics. I do know how to remove the cluster, but then how do I identify these specific pins? Bet I'm in over my head. I do have a multimeter somewhere around here. I think. Pyro