pyromanic

Yes Rick, things are better today. A couple of board members came by today, Hooziewhatsit and John (don't know his USMB Handle) , and bought a spare diff I had. And then they hung out a few hours and dug my ditch for the new electric I'll need to get back to work!! Now How cool is that?!! Also getting a few "disaster relief" donations from folks, and I can hardly express how greatful we are. If this keeps up, we'll be able to rebuild an I can get back to work. Rick, I certainly have the hood support, and maybe a grommet. I'll check on the AC line in the morning. I'm too darn beat right now. Spent the morning seperating fryed roofing metal from charred rafters, want to be ready when the giant dumpster comes thursday. Thanks again everybody. You really are making a difference. Sincerely Leland the Clayman, PS: fire sucks. Never thought it would happen to us. Be careful during these dry hot months folks, it doesn't take but second to have your life change permanantly. La Pine, Oregon

Wow guys, I don't know what to say. It's far to easy for a guy to get a pessimistic attitude about human nature when real bad luck strikes. But then folks start coming through with all kinds of help, and then it's realize that by and large, people ARE good. Can't thank you enough for the words of encouragement, the cash and the offers to help. We are applying for a grant and maybe an interest free loan from a Non Profit called CERF. CERF stands "Crafts Emergency Relief Fund". their grants and loans are small, our loss is large, (I know, I know, compared to what?) but holy cow, a bucket is filled with drops!! And the folks saying they wish they were closer so as to lend a hand, thanks a million times, but theres really nothing to be done untill we get some cash on hand for materials. It's gonna take a couple grand at least to get power back to the vincinity of the lost buildings, and that's gotta happen first. The money is trickleing in, so on the good days I have SOME hope we will recover. On the bad days---especially at night-------------- Nope, not gonna start whining. Theres far to much work to do to waste time with that crap. I absolutely look like a negro at the end of each day what with wading through the blackened rubble. Pretty funny looking. Helps my wife to keep her spirits up. Somebody mentioned raku. Yup, thats what I do. To bad I didn't have a bunch of glazed ware hanging around in the kiln shed that burnt, It would have been raku'd in the fire. Might have had some ware to sell then!! We have a huge dumpster coming this thursday or friday, then we can really start getting rid of the mess. Can't wait, I'm sick of looking at this ************. Been tearing usable metal roofing off whats left of trusses, gathering up firebrick out of the ashes, so on and so forth. Lots to do. Better get to it. Thanks again so much for ANY cash donations. That's exactly what we need right now. I do NOT want to have to sell my lifted Soob or my chvy PU to rebuild. my studio/shop. Every penny that comes in will forestall that last resort desperate possibility. So again, THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd do the same for any one of you guys, and that's the truth! Leland Hall, the Clayman

Cause appears to be electrical. Old old electrical. Cobbled to together back in the early 80's. I had made SOME improvements over the years, (I bought the place back in 92), but obviously not enough or the right ones. I honestly thought it was safe, but------ Really, feel free to send a buck. It'll all add up. Pay pal or snail mail. PM for address. This will be rebuilt one buck at a time. So believe me please, one dollar will make a difference. Any body thinks this is some kind a scam, just look at the disgusting pictues. Or ask Hooziewhatsit, he's coming by tonight to help with ditch for power and pick up a rear diff I have for him. Thanks for all the positive thoughts and words too folks, it helps honest it does. Leland the clayman

Any body want to see the carnage? Heres a bunch of pics: http://photobucket.com/albums/a236/pyromanic/ Also, this pains me, It's hard to ask for help, but I need 180 ft. of ditch for a new power supply to whats left of the building. This will be either for if we try to save whats left of the building or rebuild, either way I need power. Any volunteer ditch diggers around central Oregon? I'm outa work untill I get juice. Man, if somebody had a ditch witch, that would be great! Clayman. You may donate to the Before the Wheel fire disaster relief fund at Paypal account: b4thewheel@bendnet.com every cent will make a difference. No dollar is too small. We're really screwed here.

Yes, all tools but kilns are salvagable. It's the loss of the building that is gonna be the problem....... don't know

Yup, when my shop and pottery studio burnt yesterday after noon, I almost did not save the lifted pig and my 98 chevy 3/4 ton. I was washing dishes when my neihgbor was all of a sudden pounding on my door and screeming. Ran out and saw the flames. Moved the truck first, then the soob, they were parked right next to the shop. Then, believe it or not I was able to run in an grab all the firearms out of the safe. Then I couldn't get back in. It's not a total loss. Lost the north wall, a little of the roof, two lean twos and the kiln shed with both kilns. Major major smoke damage, and lots of melted equipment in the main studio. All my fishing gear too and other stuff I don't even know what. However all my mechanics tools are in the South end and unharmed. Power tools, welding stuff are all fine. But I think the building will be condemed by the county. Hope not, it's not insured and I can't afford to rebuild. The good new, obviously, is nobody is injured or dead, my home is intact, and I still have transportation. Still, I'm a potter, and out of business for the time being. Thanks for the shoulder guys. I kinda needed that. Pyro. ************, I'm gonna change my handle.

Oh Oh. More steering parts I havn't heard of. What are these "inner ball joints on the steering rack"? When I rebuilt my fron end I got new every thing but those. Where and what are they? Thanks, Pyro

I'm pretty sure all automotive wheel bearings are STEEL. No brass, bronze nothing like that. Steel. If you don't believe me put a magnate on them. Let us know if I'm wrong. Pyro

Oh yea, mine sat for five years before I got her and loved her back to life. She had only 12000 miles on a new engine (but a shot tranny). It took FOREVER for the lifters to quiet down. And that even after several flushes and MMO. MMO can take time to get the job done. Pyro

I was told by my dad back in '69 that a Timken tapered bearing has a life span that is indefinate , providing the are never over heated, run dry, pre-load is maintained correctly, never contamanated with water dirt, so on and so forth. Don't know if this is true. I do know that I seen lots of old Chevy trucks and such with original bearings still working just fine. It's all about maintainence. Of course the ball bearing setups in the front of our Soobs are a different can of worms. Impossible (as far as I can see) to inspect them properly. I consider this a good argument for replacement when the age/miles of the unit is unknown. The grease zirk (nipple) question is a good one. We do it with our boat trailer hubs. Drill and tap a hole in the hub and anstall a zirk. Only thing is that you have to install the inner seal backwards, so that when you pump grease into the hub, it passes on through and squeezes out the backside. Makes a mess, but with a boat trailer, it doesn't matter. If you just intall a zirk and put the seals in normaly, when you pump grease in, you'll blow out the seal. Guess you could do it with a Soob. If you try it let know how it works out? Pyro

Well sure there is, worn synchros. At least that's my understanding of "popping out of gear" sydrome.

My85 wagon has power steering but no AC. The Weber I'm using now has manual choke. It fit with no troubles. I read somewhere around here that for electric choke webers the steering res can be dented in a bit to make the carb fit, don't know about this my self, just thought I'd mention it. Pyro

In my 50 years of living I have yet to see a power window setup that does not cause grief. this is why when I found a donor car with cranks I gutted my failed power window doors and installed cranks in '85 wagon. I understand that this is probably not an option for you, just saying is all. I hate power windows. For example, I bought a 1998 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup 2003, with 6000 miles. Power windows started failing before 10,000 miles. (And GM wonders why their bonds are now junk?) Anyway, power windows suck. We can build a space station but------------- Pyro

I just went out looking for a dead cat to take to up Bent (Oregon) and didn't find one. But thers dead squirrels on the roads here in La Pine all the time, guess that would work!! So anyway, yea, ya can't swing a dead squirrel up in Bend without hitting a bunch of Soobs. Lots and lots of em. Old and new. Don't see too many EA 81's, but a few. Quite a few here in La Pine too, but this don't count as a town. Don't know if anybody else got a lifted one like me in these parts yet. funny thing about that, most folks don't notice mines lifted. But a couple of kids passed me downtown the other day, and yelled out window "GET A HUMMER!" Hehehe. Had to smile. Pyro

Oops, hadn't thought of that. Good point. Pyro

It just took a while for your lifters to pump up? No worries? Pyro

For what it's worth, (not much) that cover thingy you speak of is a "grease slinger". Pyro

Sir, I find your comment about "showing your gun" to criminals quite revealing about you lack of training. I too am liscenced to carry. I train annualy, costs me around a hundred bucks. I keep up on current law regarding lawful use of lethal force in my state. I suggest you do the same. I have NEVER drawn my weapon defensively, and hope like hell I never have to. IF I am ever forced to draw my weapon, somebody is likely to die. (could be me, who knows, cause it'll only happen in a life threatening situation) I would NEVER EVER draw my weapon in an attempt to intimidate or scare anyone. I mean no offense to you, only to suggest that perhaps you might become better informed on proper use of lethal tools. MANY states have laws that protect the criminals to point that is rediculous. Laws that pretty much prohibit us from protecting ourselves from the badguys. In states like (or whereever) that it's our job to find out what will land us in prison and what wont. Good luck and take care. Pyro

My Haynes manual said that it would be "slightly" easier to remove the arms for the job. I didn't. After doing the job, I agree with Haynes. "Slightly". Not worth it in my opinion. Don't forget that there are two different styles of bearings used in these rigs. Doesn't seem to matter which ones are in there, or which ones go back in. But if a feller didn't know about that quirk, it could get real confusing. Also, if you wind up with the "two bearings in a sleave" style, remove the new bearings from the sleave, clean the "preservative lube" out, and repack well with the grease of your choice. And there is a plastic "keeper" involved that you throw away, IF I remember correctly, which I often do not. Pyro PS, My webber is getting funky on cold mornings, am reconsidering SPFI swap. Aint that a pisser?

Hey Dave, how ya doing? I think yer old mehcanic friend might have been talking about dropping the mustache bar to get the axles out, which is really easy, fast and works like a champ for getting the rear axles out. Remember I was doing rear bearings the day you guys came out for the trans? Nevertheless, I'm going to defer advice on that to those who have more experience with the rear bearing setup. But I suspect some play like you describe is normal when the castle nut is off. Not sure though. Don't listen to me, I could be wrong. I will say this however. At the very least, they (rear bearings) should probably be removed, cleaned and examined for pits, discoloration or any other defects. It it was my car, I'd bite the bullet and put in new ones if I didn't know the age/miles of the old ones. Forunately, unlike the front ball bearings, they are of the Timken tapered style, and CAN be checked out once you get the old grease out. The trick is going to be getting the old ones out. I bet there IS a trick, I just didn't know it. Driving the old races and spacer out was kind of a PIA, but I got it done, and everthing seems fine. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Quote Just got this car for a friend and have the rear drums off to check the brakes. Start pulling on the axle stub, and what the heck? The tip moves almost 3/16"s up-down/left-right as well as in/out. All of the other wheels are fine - no movement at all. finally get the rear axle out, start taking off of the control arm bolts, when I notice if I push an inner ring 'thingy' back into the hub, the up/down movement stops, but the in/out slop is still there. I checked the other side, and it doesn't move at all, although the axle is still on that side. When I put the outer hub back on it, all movement stopped. So, my question is, are these bearing toast? maybe toast? replace them while it's easy? don't worry about it? This is for a friend who wants a reliable replacement for a Hyundai she used to have. second question: How the heck do you guys get the rear axle out so easily? I had to undo the top of the strut, then push down on the hub to get enough slack to barely get one end off? My mechanic from a few years ago said I would have to drop the rear diff to get them off. thanks, -Dave

Not that this really has anything to do with this guys problem, but it reminds me of a day back in 91 when I blew off the bottom of a the oil pressure sennding unit. Just driving down the road minding my own business. (this was a mid 80's Soob) Talk about rapid loss of pressure! Bearings sounded like the hubs of hell all of a sudden. Pulled over instantly. New sender. No probs. funny what can happen. Pyro

Yes, timing belt covers are stoopid. Burn them. On the other hand, the are fun to nail to a tree and shoot with a 45. This has been the best use of mine I have found. Pyro

Huh? Well it never occured to me that I could stick a carb on the SPFI manfold. I just assumed (duh, not to smat huh?) that the throttle body would be a differnt bolt pattern and such. Or would I need a custom adapter? Shxt, I'm gonna go look at this right now. Flows better why? Ill go look. Thanks, Pyro

Thanks Miles and Northwet. I really figured the intakes were the same. But I know how much I don't know. Now I know. So, maybe aprox 5% eh. Mmmm. Ok, 5% of what? I mean, now I'm wondering what the Horsepower of a weberised EA82. (assuming proper tuning, which is dubious in my case) 5% doesn't sound bad. And that SPFI motor is just sitting there in the other donor.

Should we tell her about using the starter to get sometimes stubborn crank pully bolt loose? I've only done belts once, so I don't feel like I should be the one to try to desribe that little trick, cause I don't want to responsible for any damage or injury. I'm pretty new to wrenching Soobs. But I had to use that trick. (which I found here at the USMB) It worked like a charm, but I was a little nervous. Scared I'd screw something up. No problem though. Now getting it bock on tight, that was kind of hard. Dont really remember exactly how I did that. Pyro