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an American translating to the metric too. Lets see....a Kilometer is about the same as a mile isn't it Bob? OK we'll change at 100,000 miles... It has been said that the only Americans to make a successful conversion to the metric system are its drug dealers.

bit different and I guess there are no Aussies here today. No one wants to give you wrong advice.

We will have mandatory oil change periods. Not that there's anything wrong with that.....

that I am used to it. Anytime it is cold it slaps till warm. A bit more than 100,000 miles now, much less irritation than head gaskets or the chattering clutch it came with.

problem. What do you mean by panel filter? On the HVAC?

but a head gasket is likely if they fail to cure it. It would be nice if it was a thermostat, cracked radiator, hose, cap, or something else like air. The Subaru goop is for phase 2s and won't help you at all.

We do require an emission warranty but I think cam belts are free. A lot of cars here require 60,000 mile cam belt changes. Who can fathom the logic of Subaru? Cold conditions of Canada were my best guess, but that's all it is, a guess.

I am also a bit purplexed that the cold of the US does not seem to be noticed by several manufactuers that give different specs for Canada. Certainly we rival the cold of a Canadian winter and how different is Alaska? I think it would be wiser to publish specs like that that are more like oil specs. Just put a temp range and specify service levels for that temp. It makes me wonder what Subaru's timeing belt spec is for Russia.

weather may be enough for anything. After growing up in Maine I can respect what cold can do to equipment. I have broken a one inch shaft clutch pedal off a backhoe in the cold.

and I bought it because I could pay for it without financeing it. I have been fixing it up for the last year. It is a pretty good car now, much better than when I bought it. The real payoff with a car is the time you get without payments. Not to mention that insurance and license is really cheap the older it gets. If I had you car I would keep it for a few more years and if I was worried about it add an additional extended warranty. If you are earning tons of money go ahead and trade.

I sure liked the idea of the locktight quick metal too if it is available. But anything that takes up the excess space and can take the heat, pressure, and vibration will work.

I can think of several places I might have used that over the years had I known about it. If he used locktite red on the crank and pulley also it might take the actual spinning load. One thing that might be interesting to measure is if the spinning has damaged the surface that locks the pulley. IE on some cranks the pulley sits against a lip. If that lip is too short the bolt can tighten but not actually put any pressure on the pulley so that the key is all that keeps it from turning. On other cars I have tightened the pulley and been able to rock it with my hand because of this. Needless to say I added a washer. I can't think what the Subaru piece looks like at the moment.

You did the right thing and its on them.

I have bought comes with directions and hot line and email help. In the act of installing two amps, a Blaupunkt head, and 14 speakers in my BMW roadster I used both types of help before I was done. I don't like to hook up expensive electronics wrong.

state motto is add more salt, the tool of choice was frequently the hot wrench. After I got here in Ca I was frequently assigned to be the guy with the torch due to my experience with corrosion. You can get out 30 year old salty exhaust studs by cherrying them with a torch and useing care. So I would say no to that. Heat can often save something that a tanker full of penetrating oil cannot. By the way once you get that rusty bolt out put a new one in. Or in this case new sensor

are good that you will need a new clutch disc, throwout and pilot bearing. Pretty good chance you can get by with the flywheel if it was like mine. I had to pay for all of that and the oil seperator myself at about 89,000 if I remember.

but the reason I did not was the seal. If the seal goes on first it could be tricky. If I recall the seal surface is on the pulley on a Subaru but I don't have one here to look at. Welding it is a pretty final step while getting an oversize key from the hardware store and getting out your file allows for more error. Cleaning the excess weld off with a grinder would be a pain too. On old British motorcycles we used to make offset keys to get the crank timing precise, and you can make a lot of keys to get something just right at little cost.

spot weld it. I had this issue on my Mercedes after it spun from the last mechanic not tightening it fully. I had metal transfered from the pulley to the crank. and some spots on the crank a bit low. Don't try this at home kids but I fixed it by pulling the radiator, shroud, fan, etc, and running the engine to turn the crank for short periods. I started by applying a file to the crank to round it roughly, then smoothed it with emery paper till I brought it into specs measured with a micrometer. I had to make a custom key twice as wide as stock on the crank side, and narrowed to stock size on the damper side. Then I cleaned the entire area with ether and applied red locktite. I torqued thing down to specs with a new bolt. I sold the car about 30,000 miles and a couple of years later and it still seemd fine.

for what I have seen in Kiwi for a car like yours. I hope someone is more help. I have a brother in law in Queenstown that might be of some help but that is a bit far away for you.

and I used after market Aussie pads on the front and Subaru on the rear. I sprayed the rear of the pad with anti squeak and used brake lube also. No squeaks so far. I used an old bungie cord to hold up the caliper. Pretty easy.

this unless someone has done it before and you can get all the specs. I have done a number of head swaps, mostly Chevy and Ford, and even when you have a pretty good idea of results unexpected things crop up.

Before I reinstall any thing electrical I like to get a good connection, especially (shudder) in a car that runs in an environment with road salt.

since SUVs are popular with Americans both cars I tested the other day were in SUV form.

Make sure you have a wrench that fits exactly. Back in PA you have salt so it may be more of a struggle.

that you should have supplied up front. I am sure you did not think of it till now but did your fuel mileage drop after the accident or was it always poor?