presslab

I used to have a baja bug, it was sweet!! My friend had an old one too, it was so rusted you had to make sure you didn't get your feet between the pan and the body when it opened up on wheel articulation. Hey what are those wheels off of?

Can't make you a header... I just had knee surgery; they drilled holes in my bones, stripped two tendons off my hamstring and made me a new ACL ligament. It's gonna be a while... I bought 6 of these pipes: http://store.racing-solutions.org/1mist180de2r.html I cut 'em up with an angle grinder, welded it up with a cheap MIG, and bamo there it is. Your TD04 might be creeping because of your boost controller... To fix your fuel cut you need bigger injectors (and/or adjustable FPR) and a modded MAF.

It just hooks to the stock O2 sensor. It tells me if the mixture is richer or leaner than stoichiometric (perfect mixture) but not by how much. It tells me a couple things, like if the computer is open or closed loop, and if the mixture ever goes real lean while at full throttle/high RPM.

Make sure it is clean! I stuffed rags in mine and let them soak up the oil for a day so it wouldn't drip down as I was putting it together. I used Loctite 518 (Permatex 51813) but the key is to keep it clean. Use Acetone to clean the surfaces.

I noticed a couple weeks ago a bit more odor when the interior vents were open. More than my little oil leaks. I checked it out and sure enough my header has cracked. (Again.) So I made a new one. It turned out pretty well. A bit more power now, not earth shattering but I think whenever I do the exhaust turbo-back it will have much more power. Boost comes on a little sooner. The top end pulls nicely. I also elongated the rear hole for a TD04 in future. BTW it has been running great too!

My door panel foam is chewed up on the top. I put some new foam on it but it's bright yellow, maybe I should just paint the whole interior bright yellow?

Anyone find spray paint that's close to that stock blue color? Maybe the Fusion Satin Twilight?

Yeah pretty sure that's the one I ordered, but I agree it's best to call them up. They have great service and they'll give you the right part number to order off the web site. I've ordered a bunch from those guys.

Mine was cracked and leaking so I bought a new one here, about a year ago: https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213882&chapter=ANL730&appSectionid=6&groupid=10024&subgroupid=20148&componentid=62287&make=32&model=Wagon&year=1987&catalogid=1 $59 isn't too bad.

Dang, you're right, senseless, no sense at all! And what a bummer too, I think I killed my last brain cell last night with that Fat Tire Ale!

I had the same 'problem' and I replaced my radiator (2 row), thermostat, etc. to no avail! It turns out it wasn't really overheating, it was my temp gauge. When I would turn on the AC, I would turn the interior fan up to '4' to cool things off. This would draw a lot of current which in turn caused a voltage drop in the engine ground cable, and my temp gauge would shoot up. I installed a big ground cable right by the thermostat housing and the temp gauge is rock solid now. I cleaned the original grounds and while they looked ok they still had a ~50mV drop with the fan running. The temp gauge circuit is very sensitive.

I've read both. This company says it is not a problem: http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_faqs_retrofitting.asp#9 I've also read I 'need' to replace half of the components with new ones, flush the system, replace the dryer, etc., and I haven't done any of those things and frankly it's not worth it.

Here is some info on the factory part numbers for belts, courtsey of MilesFox: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/loyale24.jpg http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/loyale25.jpg I too had problems finding the right belt so I just bought the factory one. I vacuumed my R12 A/C system and put in R134a without changing orings or anything. It's been about 4 years now and it still works fine.

Anti-sway bars are made out of spring steel and heat treated. You'll have to get that material from a specialized vendor and heat treat it after you form it. If you use mild steel it will soon crack and fail.

No, I'm saying that it NEVER goes lean, meaning always rich, when the ECU is in open loop, i.e. WOT. The surging problem I was having was the computer trying to run closed loop under boost. The computer just guesses at when there is boost as it doesn't have any connection to manifold pressure. Changing anything in the fuel system will confuse the computer so it can try to close the mixture loop while under boost which is what was causing my surging.

New boost gauge now; the old boost gauge was bad! OOOPS! I was pushing more boost than I thought. Poor wittle engine. I'm now running 11 PSI boost on 91 octane R+M/2 gas. The narrow band O2 never goes lean under WOT, no surging (not even a hint) after the addition of the O2 relay. No CEL codes. Starts great, runs great, feels great, I'm gonna leave the engine alone now! Next up, paddle shifters. PS: A note about the MAF sensor. The ECU uses the MAF to do fuel cut, as a lot of you know. However the ECU has a long-term-fuel-trim to adjust for MAF errors. It is quite possible to "lean out" the MAF and allow the ECU to adjust it's long-term-fuel-trim to compensate. This will still give the correct mixture, but the fuel cut will be at a higher air flow. The ECU only has a certain range of adjustment though, but this explains why fuel cut is achieved at different boost levels on different cars.

Check these out: http://www.tcugo.com/products.html http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=91327&page=1 http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/download/tcu/Master%20Manual%20rev2.1.pdf

Sounds like it really is totally fail-safe! Nono, sell the 4EAT to me, I actually quite like mine.

These are my thoughts based on what I read. The overrunning clutch is for engine braking. If SS-3 fails Subaru says there will always be engine braking but does not mention any other bad effects, so for paddle shifter I think the overrunning clutch should always be engaged. I have seen aftermarket controllers simply control line pressure DS-A using throttle position. For lock up DS-B I have also seen aftermarket controllers create a "5 speed" where "5th" gear is 4th with the torque converter locked up. Otherwise the torque converter is not locked. When locking up DS-B should be modulated for a smooth transition. For PC they have soundcard oscilloscope software, maybe this is good enough for your needs, and not sure if Mac has that option. I'm using a HP 54600B I picked up for $75.

Alrighty, a little progress has been made. The relay on the O2 sensor works good, as soon as it clicks on the car goes open loop, and when it goes off the car goes closed loop quickly. No codes either. This should solve the surging once and for all. :cool: I adjusted the stock boost switch to come on at 2 PSI. There's a little plastic cap over the adjuster, just drill it out and back the adjuster all the way out. This is what triggers the relay. The high RPM / boost hesitation is being caused by the timing being pulled but I haven't found the definite root cause yet. I desensitised the stock knock sensor by adding a 470k resistor in series with it; my engine has 150k miles and is a bit noisier than new. I don't hear any detonation with it like this and I'll check the plugs for oil specks after a bit of driving. I also put in some BPR8ES plugs, let's hope they don't foul out quickly. According to some web site, based on how my BPR6ES plugs were looking they were running too hot. Something about the location of the brown band on the ground electrode. http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/how-to-read-plugs.html I'm not sure of my boost gauge now as when I turn the boost circuit off it is showing about 5 PSI yet before the intercooler install it was showing 7 PSI. I even hooked up the gauge to the wastegate and it still showed 5 PSI. So quite possibly I am boosting more than 10 PSI. For now I have turned the boost down to 8 PSI and it is running good.

I have the EJ22 in my 2wd westy. Totally pleased with it. If you want 'extra' power, go with the 6. However I run mine up mountain passes in 3rd at 5000 RPM, 60 MPH, no prob. Worst mileage was WOT all the way down I-5 to L.A. 14 MPG, 85 MPH, 15 MPH headwind.

I used a back biased hall sensor from Newark.com, PN GS101202. All you need is some piece of rotating metal to pick up on. I think the stock EJ22 is 4 pulses per tire revolution. I used the 6 bolt heads on my Vanagon CV joint. You could pick up off something on the driveshaft.

Your gauge is probably off. With the engine idling, turn on your headlights, interior fan, etc. Measure the voltage of your engine ground near the temp sender vs the chassis ground. Anything more than 10mV or so will cause the gauge to read higher than it really is. I had that problem, when I'd turn on the interior fan the engine would instantly "overheat". I checked and cleaned the original ground and it seemed ok and didn't fix it, but then I added a big heavy ground at the thermostat and the problem is gone.

That looks pretty handy! There are some other kits from them I'd like to get my hands on but the shipping from your far away land is a little too much for me. :-\ If you run into any troubles feel free to send me a PM.

Yesterday I replaced the cap, rotor, and wires. It's perhaps better but still not as it should be. It still loses power at high RPM when boosting more than around 10 PSI. I advanced the timing to 25 BTDC and it made a little more power all over but the high RPM problem was still there. I put it back to 20 BTDC. I think the next step is to get my WBO2 sensor working. It is not going lean based on my narrow band O2 but I don't know how rich it is. Maybe it is too rich?