machineit

Lol, true , thanks for input, working towards a different carb, ????

Yes time for a different carb, ????

Thanks for all the input, going to go with a different carb, this would be ok if I was running methonal and not using it on the street, lol

Yes it's a 2jet 276 cfm, still under construction, I haven't been able to get the response I would like, in the process of making a spacer plate, 2 of them, a 1" and a .75" to see what's best, will see what happens , cheers ????

It works, somehow lol

I found some thru the Subaru dealership for my 85 GL wagon, $45

Aw man sorry to hear that, glad you have another, by the way I have a extra set of bypassing the water out of the intake, if you interested let me know, not looking for money, just to help out ????

I bought one a couple months back off Amazon, seems to be good so far $29"????

Check the water temp selinioid, sounds like that may be giving false reading making it run as if it were cold, good luck

I have a shop manual for 85 to 87 gl, those have many vacume operations, many selinoids, many plug ins. I don't want to spenp $300 on little components to make a emission carb work, I had a Hitachi too.I New off the get go it would be problems, when I bought the car, disassembled, the guy said the carburetor had less than 6 hours use, however most of the components were gonw. My point is, the engine could not be tuned because of things being unhooked, plugged and obvisly not running the way it all was designed to do. I can take some pictures of the manuel to show the components that are required to make the Hitachi carb runable, however they are spendy as you know, yet will never be what you want. A few have told me that the secondary never had worked, most are running around with a one barrel carb. Let me know, I have been dealing with carbs for a minute, right now I have a 2 barrel Rochester on, it was bad at first, after making timing ajustments, a spacer, it seems great.I have a couple carbs, only into each $60 ready to go, if I get in gear and reassemble them, lol, willing to help out.

Dude, I like it !!! PM me if you like. I cant wait to get mine on the road too.

Today I found Subarus I didn't know existed. Many 85 thru 89 models. XT6s even a fatory rally model with a 10 speed. The guy was a plethora of information and he rekindled my Subaru enthusiasm. I had no idea how advanced this car was 30 years ago. Next time I vist, I will ask to get pictures to share.

Probably best to get a Weber, if you a Hitachi, those are far from anything bad, they are worse. Best of luck

I meant to reply to you, still learning how to correspond here, thank you ferp420, hope your weekend is good to you, latter friend ✌

Some good food for thought, I have another set of heads that I started on, shaved .08" off them, New valves, seats and guides, suppose I could write a program to remove some material from the intake and exhaust, port. Wouldn't cost me anything just a little time. Thank you for the input and encouragement. In the meantime I found a 2 barrel Holly from a 79 Jeep 4 cylinder, ordered a rebuild kit too. Just want to drive it at this point, I've had it almost a year and been working on it here and there, however, would be fun to build a high output E 82 for it, if I do my research as you say, I could make it a little screamer, hog wild ????

Well Im learning without haveing spent much money, for the first time, lol. I was trying to use a Rochester 36mm 2 barrel on a 1.8, not going to work. The vacume drop at just a crack is enormous, causing the rotating assembly to lag several seconds. So I am researching the proper CFM. In my search I found a few Carbs that might work, all are Weber designs or manufactured. I hope to find if a Weber 32/36 is tuneable for such a small engine. I've been told that I should have around 130 CFM, 32/36 is around 300, progressive. I found a 32/32 from a Fiat, just hard to get rebuild kit. I should mention the Rochester that I have is 278 CFM non progressive, might be the difference, all at once. Just playing with it and hoping to hear some feed back. Thanks.

Bear with me, still learning how to post pics, ???? I used 3/4" barbed brass fittings coming out of the thermostat and distributer side adapter

I removed .600" from the intake, head mating surface

These all have a .950" thickness, I didn't want to go to much in case air cleaner would hit the hood

The Hitachi carb that I removed had hot water and exhaust heating it, figured I would play with it and see what happens, now it's manuel choke, wish I could afford a Webber. My throttle cable is to short, so thinking on using a brake cable from a motorcycle, lol