Phizinza

... That's what I like. Info I haven't thought of. Thank you very much. Time to get the EJ in and start building that EA ! Cheers,

I just read somewhere that if you adjust them til theres no free play (backlash) on the pinion shaft then take the left one out 1 and a half notches it should have the right backlash. But then how tight do I need the right side done up? Hmm...

I don't want to shave the heads. I want to shave the block. I already have the dual carb model which I think should have 9.5:1 pistons (I don't know for sure because the block is not the original.) I can't see anything getting in the way of shaving the block execpt for piston to valve clearance, hense the question above. I'm not looking for more power for a car. I simply just want to play with this engine to see what I can do with it. 100hp is boring.. I want to see more out of this engine. I guess I'll have to go out and measure things roughly and take a pot guess at it all. Any idea how far the cam pushes the valves down? That should be in the manual. I'll have a look

We'll I'm having the lockable open center diff and a EJ22. But my question was asked just out of interest. I just was interested to know how they compared. And I guess the only answer was "the viscous is better" which is just stating the obvious to me. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to see how my FT4WD works and be happy with that.

Gearbox is still all sealed up.. So I can't do that. Just replacing those seals and I took those caps off. FSM has nothing on the gearbox that is detailed.

There is no easy way to get the locker and viscous in one.. They are completely different units. I can get pics and show you if you want.

I made a socket to fit the stubs, it's a 1" socket that I cut to grooves in and then used a bolt through the roll pin hole. So that's how I can measure the torque on the diff. But how do I make sure the ring gear is aligned up with the pinion properly?

Why would it be only a small amount? I'm not planning on having the original manifold, and isn't that the only thing stopping us shaving the heads or blocks on these engines?

I would go with the R180 or R200 if you plan on RWD only. The standard R160 in the EA82 isn't upto that I don't think. But you never know, maybe it is. Only way to find out is to give it ago or hear from someone who already has.

This is what I am talking about, the FT4WD EA82 trans with the center locking diff (which is open when not locked.) Or are you refering to the PT4WD box where it is 2WD or 4WD and has no center diff?

I need to know how to retorque the front diff roller bearings in a FT4WD box. You know, the ones behind those spoked side caps. I've been searching the net for ages now and I can't find a single thing on it Can anyone help me out?

I gather AWD is better because that's what they all use now. But I was wondering how much better. That's all.

Yep, also fenders are all the same. Hatch and Brat doors are the same, expect the glass, which is quite different.

Bit of a long shot, but. Does anyone know the clearance in between the piston and the valve on a normally running EA81? As in when the piston is coming out pushing out the exhaust how close does it get to the open exhaust valve? Or does anyone know how to figure this out? I'm not that great with math... My idea is to have seperate manifolds for two carbs ontop of each head and to gain compression get the block shaved. This is a cheap and safe way to play with my dual carb heads and try and get cheap power out of an EA81. I relise that I might bend a rod and a valve, but you can always get replacment valves and rods. The point of this... Is to have fun playing with my EA81.

Umm.. Basicly I just want to know how much better on road handeling is with a viscous center diff vs the open center diff. I know that not many poeple have viscous center diffs in there EA series cars, but maybe the ones that have might be able to answer my question?

In other words Viscous vs Open center diff... I really don't know where to put this, but because I'm going to have a FT4WD diff locker box in my car I think I will put it here. I am just interested in how the open center diff compares to the viscous unit in the later models on the road (pavement and dirt.) I know off the road with the diff locked it should be better then the viscous. That's why I'm getting one. But I'm just interested with onroad driving. Cheers,

Although many people say they have heard them break and they are bad in the Fiat X19 world my brother has never heard of a real story of them failing. He hears plenty of "I wouldn't, they are weak" or "they will break" but when it comes down to it there are more stories along the lines "yeah, I use them on my race car, have done for years" I'm not saying they don't or do break. Just saying there are too many stories coming from people who have never used them...

Wow. That's the first time I've heard of that happening. I was just telling my brother that it would be almost impossible to blow an open diff. And that I have never heard of it before. But what do ya know...

I think this has something to do with power. the more power you have the more power you get with less throttle action. This causes the wheels to spin easier, which is exactly what you don't want on a slipery road. I think your friend is right not wanting another Subie, if he can't control one I don't want him in one either... Intelligence in a driver is what makes a huge difference I say. Ofcause it could just be the wider tires the later models have, with not a whole lot more weight.

Don't know where he got them, but their called Desert Rats, and they are made of Speedy Wheels. Well, I asume they are what he has as they look the same.

Could you explain why this is needed? Both my sets of 6 stud wheels on my 6 stud converted hubs have a much bigger center then original and I haven't had a problem.

+1

Haha, I didn't even notice. We told him to use the search..

Reminds me of 'back to the future' that car does..

It's very possible. Will take a fair bit of time. A mate of mine, my brother, and I done the same thing about a year back now. We made ours out of 2" by 2" alloy block and bought the front strut lift blocks (only 2" for legal reasons.) We got a cold cut blade for the circular saw and it cut the alloy very nicely. We also had to measure all the bolts our selves because no one wanted to give that away, which I could understand. I have no idea what the bolts were now, but I'm pretty sure they are all 12x1.25mm thread. We figured half the cost of the lift kit from a seller was just the cost of the bolts. So there isn't a huge saving doing it yourself. Oh, and be prepared to have your car off the road for at least a week..