thedoctor

You know, a lesser man would be insulted by that tone. Let's just say, this is how I learn. I'm not "afraid to ask questions". I know the veterans "don't bite". But I told you why I am asking. Are you saying nobody disconnects these things like the Air Tubes? Oh. Well those... just cut them off and throw them away. I am asking because the bloody engine is out of the car and now is the time to learn all about what can or should be cut off and thrown away. But thank you to the gentleman who brought up emissions testing. In PA for a 1983 vehicle, emissions testing means a visual inspection and a gas cap pressure test. And guess what has to appear to be there? The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve! As well as the PCV valve. Hmmm I wonder what that is connected to?

Do you mean just let it open to the air? What does it connect to inside the head? Is it the space where the push rods are located? What keeps oil from coming out of this port?

But the right head has the EGR port in it. I need to know whether or not to plug it. I did start another thread on this.

I can't see the images and I really want to know how to make a special tool. Do you suppose I could fashion a connection between a ratchet box wrench and a torque wrench? Perhaps one that would fit through the other end of the wrench.

I just got my heads back from the machine shop and I welded shut the air pipe stubs. That eliminates a whole bunch of tubing up top, which is great. I understand I have to plug some holes to prevent unfiltered air from entering the carb. Is the EGR valve necessary? If not, do I plug the port in the right cylinder head? If the EGR valve can go, what else can also go? Now is the time. Thanks

I need to concentrate on this oil problem now and worry about the heater later. I do believe this is coming up through the speedometer cable. I did not reach up and remove the cable yet. I did remove three 10mm bolts to allow the black box to hang down by the wires and drip a puddle of oil. Oil is also running down the underside of the steering column. It isn't brake fluid. It does smell like gear oil, although the transmission dip stick oil smells stronger I'd say. When I checked the transmission it was overfilled about 2X for some unknown reason. Perhaps this would increase pressure inside the transmission and push oil up the speedometer cable. But is there a blown seal somewhere?

Re: the coolant leak possibly from the heater control valve. Where can I get a replacement or can I replace it with a reach under dash valve of my own? Re: is it brake fluid or is it transmission gear oil? I will investigate that.

First timer here for head gaskets, but it seems to me these two are identical rather than being mirror images L and R Please advise. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9636&d=1335118382 I have to get the car on the road

Could be. It didn't smell like... anything to me, which means it didn't smell like oil actually. Here are some photos. And by the way, if you don't mind. I think I got two left handed head gaskets in my kit. I wouldn't think it is cool to flip one front to back to get it to fit. These gaskets seem to have two very different sides to them. (sorry... I am a head gasket virgin) Have a look. I will post separately as well. Thanks. not sure how to get photos inline. please advise. pps sorry my head gasket pics don't show the bottom of the gasket, but it is not shaped symmetrically to the upper half as seen in this photo.

The engine is out for head gasket repair, clutch, and valve job. History: I had a bad head gasket which I hope was the cause of coolant in my oil (but not the other way around). Prior to that, I had coolant leaking into the driver's cabin, presumably from a bad heater core, but I couldn't swear to that. I did order a new core and will gladly accept advice on the fastest way to replace it. I was just looking at what exactly is under there and viola! drops of oil on the bolts holding up the wiring and or fuse box. This oil was clean. I will try to get photos. What could this mean? OH... forgot to mention I had used STOP LEAK as a stop gag measure to prevent my socks from smelling like antifreeze everyday. There is deposit of the gunk forming like a stalagmite just under the pipes leading to the heater core. The stop leak worked well and in fact gunked up my entire engine block because it was being pumped through the oil system as well as the water system. But these oil drops are clean.

OK... I'm sure I'll be consulting you guys in about a week when I put all this back together in a new way. Thanks. Stay tuned. PS How can I get images inline with my post?

I told the machine shop to cut the pipes and that I would weld them. This allowed them to do what they had to do the valve job. Here are some photos of the finished product, and more importantly the pipes that were cut off. I must say I am a bit nervous about the important looking bits that will no longer connect to wherever they were connected to. I am solely dependent upon the A:A, B:B method of labeling. If this fails, I'll be like Hansel and Gretel after the birds ate the bread crumb trail. Why do these brass valves look like vacuum junctions? I really need a big picture of what I can happily get rid of under the hood... starting with these connections.

Thank you Thank you and Thank YOU.

Thanks. Hey since I have your attention. I think I just posted a question about the pipes coming off the heads, but I didn't see it show up yet. Heads are at machine shop. I could not get the pipes off and neither can they. Sorry for temporary ignorance about what they are for. They are about 1 inch in diameter and they are about to be busted I fear. Do I need them or are they environmental add ons. Recommendation PLEASE.

My heads have been sitting at the machine shop for a week:banghead: I could not get the pipes off the heads as they were rusted fast. The machine shop couldn't either and NOBODY CALLED ME. What did they think I would just forget about them? Anyway... what are those pipes for? Are they vacuum or are they environmental? Can I do without them? I have to tell the machine shop how to proceed. They think they might bust something and then what? EA81 1.8

I bought a spare engine for $50 and used the one on that. Yeah, I think they are in business. Pretty sure it was Subaru, lol.

Yes, I have a fantasy about driving my rust bucket out of the rust belt, dropping the engine into a rust free wagon and driving back home.

Ha! I'm still driving my '83 DL. I have put about 130,000 miles on it since I last posted to this thread. Maybe I have found my ideal. My main problem is staying ahead of the rust here in PA. I've already welded new rockers (made from Astro van rockers) and did a major floor board replacement. Also serious frame rot behind rear wheels both sides... repaired. But there is always more. Also fabricated lower parts of rear fenders etc. Fun stuff.

OK thanks. I think I will remain patient and put the carter/weber back on when I put the engine back in the car next week. In the meantime I will search for a used Weber 32/36 DGV to rebuild. What do you know about getting rid of environmental controls. I have run across threads that mention this as though it were a routine modification. EGR gone, etc. I like the idea of a really simple machine, which is why I would go for the manual choke.

Thanks, but I still don't understand the vin thing. Could you tell from my vehicle identification number? Also, I am considering a weber 32/36 manual choke. I do have a hitachi manifold on my spare engine. I have been running the Carter/Weber. (what do you mean by feedback carb?) Biggest problem is hard starts in cold weather. And I do want good gas mileage. Would you suggest switching or keeping the carb I have?

I've got my ea81 1.8l engine out to replace head gaskets, clutch, valve job, and a few other things. One of the other things is a water pump and possibly an oil pump. Rockauto specifies vin 4 on one of their water pumps. What does that mean? my vin is JF1AM42B8DB410009 is that vin 4 or 5? Also the engine as 250k on it. I'm thinking new oil pump. yes? I do have the oil pump kit, o-rings etc. BUT I can't find a new oil pump. Autozone doesn't have it and RockAuto doesn't either. SO I have a spare engine and the pump on that one "looks" better, but it has the big sensor unit that goes with an oil pressure gauge. Mine has the small one. Can I just plug in the big one or should I swap sensors.

I drive an '83 dl here in Pennsylvania and of course I have already welded new rocker panels on her. These were derived from 4 Astro van rocker panels. Worked very well. My point is that this rust seen on your project car seems very familiar to me. I am surprised such is the case with a California car. Perhaps I should abandon my dream of finding a rust free older generation soobie. Help... I'm sinking into a depression.

Should I take the heads to the machine shop for evaluation? Also, I noticed a lot of stop leak gunk in the block water channels. How can I get that out?

Compression 1: 90 2: 102 3: 38 4: 118 See photos of cylinder 3 headgasket, piston, cyl wall. I see a possible leakage path between the water channel and the cylinder itself. This explains the water in oil but no oil in water, correct? I need advice on how far to break down this engine now that it is on the stand. How does one evaluate? Do the compression numbers say anything about the engine in general? Should I have a valve job or just replace the head gasket and be done with it. The clutch has about 100K on it but it doesn't slip. I am still looking for a Weber DVG 32/38. I don't want to bolt that single barrel back on.

Well, with the help of a friend, I have the engine out and on the bench. Actually I have two engines to work with, engine A just out and engine B from a junk yard. Plan is to check compression on each engine, and then pull the heads. I don't know what to look for other than hopefully see where engine A head gasket is bad. Will post compression findings. How does one check the crank shaft bearings, etc. How do you know how far to go once you start? PS I do want to grab the hitachi intake manifold from engine B and fit it with a Weber 32/36 DGV. I am looking for one, also the adaptor and air clearner etc.