thedoctor

Thanks for the good information. I found that metal tag so I know it is a C-W. I sure won't soak that carb. If the fuel system cleaner(s) don't fix my cold start problem, I'll be in the market for a Hitachi carb with intake manifold. I can at least get a rebuild kit for that.

How can I tell what carb I have for sure. I am going by the linkage connecting on the driver's side = Carter-Weber, but I make some stupid mistakes. I need to know for sure. Also if it is a Carter-Weber, I need to do all possible cleanings because rebuild is not an option. Would you recommend soaking it in something? Or is MMO or some similar system cleaner just as good.

I have two fuel filters. One in the back next to the fuel pump, and one under the hood (that one has a third line coming straight out the top). A few weeks ago I was having power loss that was greatly improved by replacing the rear filter. The front one is relatively new also. The carb rebuild kit turns out to be expensive $200 plus from the factory. The Advance folks were talking about a Hitachi kit. I can't lay out that kind of money with knowing what the problem is. If I found a used Hitachi and manifold, that would fit my car right? Then later I could upgrade to a Weber. $31 for a fuel pump is different. There must be an answer to why this sucker starts warm but not cold. I will do a cold compression test and see what that says. I will put on a new fuel pump and another new filter. But I am not getting that Ah Hah! feeling at all.

I have my cylinder numbers correct so 1:165, 2:145, 3:190, 4:185... but I don't know how to interpret these numbers. I heard anything over 130 was good on an engine with 166K miles, but what about the difference between the cylinders? Is it significant. Does fuel pump pressure have anything to do with start up?

This is an 83 dl EA81 166K no start in cold, new plugs have black deposit. Started with ether a couple days. This morning that didn't work. In the warm shop... started right up. Compression test in order 1,2,3,4: 165, 145, 190, 185. I need some help on what to do next. It has a Carter-Weber that I can get a rebuild kit for (from Advanced Auto Parts). I have no experience with that, but life is for learning. Everything but wires have been replaced on the ignition side. Wires were new 18 months ago.

Thank you. You guys are great. I... I think I feel a Soob addiction comin on.

What does DGEV stand for? And what does 32/36 refer to? Sorry for the basic questions, but this is where I am at. What is the advantage of the Hitachi over the Carter Weber, and of the Weber over the Hitachi? My main goal is to have reliable transportation, not necessarily high performance.

I may be needing to replace my stock Carter-Weber on my 83 dl 1.8. I have read a little about various Weber carbs that are out there. What am I looking for ideally? Should I plan on moving to a manual choke? Can I put a used Hitashi on this car? Would I want to? Please share your experience. I am planning to take a walk around a big U Pull it tomorrow.

I need tips on how to do a compression test correctly. I saw a tester at Sears with 14 mm thread for about $25. Is that a good tester or is there another kind I should get. Obviously this is the first time I've done this. Any tips, cautions? I have an 83 EA81 166 K, won't cold start, loosing coolant, sometimes seems like it's not running on all cylinders.

I recently was advised to check for spark by using a timing light. I had a no start in cold. I hooked up the light as usual and had someone crank the engine - no start - no light. I thought no spark. So I pulled the plug and grounded it - got spark. So did I get the wrong idea about using the timing light to check for spark? Was there not enough current to run both the light and crank the engine at the same time?

I checked the choke pull-off while someone was cranking the engine and I verified that the plate opened a little. I also checked to be sure a stream of gas got pumped into the carb when the throttle cable is pulled. BTW the secondary fuel filter was dead empty. Then I sprayed some ether into the carb and the engine started right up. I poured some dry gas in the gas tank. Could this have all been bad gas? I have been using regular with ethanol, usually from a Hess station. What would be recommended?

Yes it must be a Carter-Weber because this car has not been modified as far as I can tell. I will double check the choke functioning tomorrow morning. Would a choke pull-off problem only occur when it is really cold. I guess if it was warm, the choke wouldn't come on in the first place, is that it?

My current secondary fuel filter is transparant. I can see that it is full of fuel, but it is empty sometimes. The car has already started in the shop even when that filter is empty. I then watch it fill up. Is it supposed to hold at full? It has that third tube coming out the top. Re the carb: I can look down the barrel and pull the throttle cable and see a good stream of gas shoot out. How can I tell if it is an injecta-carb or a mechical pump. Would an injecta-carb have something that sounds like a wristwatch on steroids and amphetamines?

This sound is like a real fast wrist watch and of course louder than a wrist watch. The engine cranks over vigorously. I definitely have spark, but thank you for the suggestion about the timing light... i will use that to double check. The choke does activate in cold temperatures. The metal plate will be open, then I step on the gas and I go look ... and it is closed. The car can sit for two hours in single digit temps and start right up. But let it sit overnight and it won't fire up. An older thread suggested ether spray followed by dry gas. Any cautions about using ether?

OK. Does the ticking mean the computer crap has gone bad? Could that have anything to do with my no start in cold weather? Is there a diagram somewhere to show just how to disconnect it.

No start in cold weather. Rapid ticking noise from carb area with ignition switch on. What is that? Is it a problem? Background info: rebuilt dist., new cap, rotor, plugs, timing, fuel filters. Starts when warm. Runs well.

83 dl 1.8 I am having a no start in cold condition (10 degrees) new plugs, rebuilt dist, new cap and rotor, new fuel filter, gas to the carb OK, timing OK. With the ignition on, there is a rapid clicking sound coming from the vicinity of the carb. Does anyone know what that is? This is a Weber carb. I don't know what to do next. I will try using a hair dryer to heat up the carb / air cleaner. If it starts I will add dry gas. I have not checked the vacuum hoses yet. What else? And could that clicking noise have anything to do with my problem?

I checked my "How to keep your subaru alive" and I don't think I have a condensor, because I don't have points. I have a pick-up coil. I do not think my problem is in the ignition system. My current thought is debris in the 21 year old gas tank. Would that not produce an intermittent problem? I am planning on putting hose in there and pumping out some gas into a glass jar and looking at it. If I see debris I'll need some ideas. Can I take the tank off and wash it out. Are there clean replacements available? I thought I read about someone getting one from this group.

Where is the condensor on this car?

I recently changed the fuel filter under the hood. Mine has three lines going into it. Two horizontal and one coming out the top. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? Re: clarification- yes it can be the same drive. Yesterday, I thought I was going to have to call a tow truck. After I filled up, I added some dry gas, it was horrible for the next half hour - only got about a mile. Then I drove 30 miles with no problem. Today, I drove 60 miles with no problem other than a kind of surging when I'm cruising say 40 mph in third gear. If I accelerate out of that it's OK. Sorry I don't have better information. I am a beginner.

I am getting a power loss mild to severe most noticable on hills, but not always. When it is running well I can accelerate strongly on a hill or otherwise. Most recently happened right after a gas fill up. Exhaust system was new 18 months ago. Rebuilt distributor last week to cure no-start. The poser loss problem preceeded that. Looking in carb with engine off - there is a strong stream of gas upon pulling accel cable. Choke seems to work. No obvious vacuum leaks. I'm wondering about crude in the gas tank vs catalytic converter (except that is pretty new). Turning off or slowing down and then back on sometimes helps. Please share ideas.

I'm curious about how much progress is too much. I have had an 83 dl for a year and a half and I'm impressed. Impressed enough that I want to look for the ideal of the older generation. I recently was quoted $300 to replace a bad pick-up coil that equates to a few bucks for a set of points on an older car. What is the consensus? What year and model would be the ideal?

I have an 83 dl. Radiator fan works, but have to hot wire it. Local Subaru dealer wants $45 for a new sensor, the one that goes into the radiator near the drain plug on the passenger side. Is there another alternative?

I'm new and I'm here because I need to be with people who can think. I just spent the past three days dealing with "mechanics" at my local Subaru dealership. I had my 1983 DL 1.8 towed there with a no-start problem. These guys had nothing to plug their computer into. They said there is nobody working here who was around when these kind of cars were on the road! Excuse me, I thought I was bringing my car to THE source of knowledge about Soobies. I finally got them to think a little outside the box and actually test a few things. After they replaced the coil and the new coil still didn't generate spark, they hit upon the pick up coil as possibly the problem. They did work with me and let me procure my own rebuilt distributor. I'm back on the road, but I will definintely be avoiding the dealership. (I think they all secretly enjoyed the thinking though... at one point four of the mechanics were "donating their time" trying to figure out this ancient machine. So that's my hello to the community.