thedoctor

Thanks one and all. Very helpful.

I have an 83 dl daily driver. Looking for recommendations on new tires. Stock size: 155SR13. Knowing that stock is not always best... what size tire is best for economy vs performance? I'm looking for the physics answer. For example, will a larger tire give me better economy on the highway, but ruin my clutch in stop and go driving? Please help me think this through. And please share thoughts about best brands for durability, etc. Thanks

A friend was following me home and told me my left rear wheel seemed to be angled in. I looked at the tread on that tire and the outside edge is wearing much more than the rest of the tire. What could be the cause of this and how do I fix it?

About the carb, I hope it isn't a Carter/Weber. I have one and got a quote from the factory on a rebuild kit: $210, not for a rebuilt carb, for the kit. So far I'm keeping it alive with Seafoam and chevron techron every now and then. Ether is handy for real cold mornings.

The varying shaft size gives me some hope. First thing in the morning, I will double check. It is possible that the inner joint has in and out play that I had not taken into consideration.

I just pulled my left axle. Bad CVJ. I have a rebuilt axle which seems to be about an inch longer than the old one and with a bit thinner shaft. The joints themselves look the same. I am assuming the parts store gave me the wrong part. Am I correct in thinking these should be identical? This is probably a stupid question, but that's how I learn.

I definitely have an O2 sensor because I replaced it trying to get my ECS light to go off. Other than that, torxx, you're right that I need to get familiar with my car. I learn a little more every day (some more than others). It will take me a few days to digest the info in this thread.

Where can I find the special socket(s) to torque the head bolts on an EA81. I am also in the market for the valve adjusting tool. Are they available here? Are they really needed or are there common work-arounds?

OK, let me re-word the question. Not that I would disconnect anything illegally, but for academic reasons only, what extra equipment would be on an 83 dl, which, if removed, would simplify the operation of the vehicle? O2 sensor? Certainly the catalytic converter (mine is new so I'm really not going to remove it) Someone on this message board told me to disconnect my "computer crap" behing the steering column. I didn't, but I'd like to know if it is needed. Any thoughts?

Would anyone out there say Hitachi over Weber? I can live with my Carter-Weber for a while yet. Is the consensus that, as long as I am going to be swapping intake manifolds, it would be better to get a Weber rather than to rebuild the Hitachi?

What's this? This is the first anti-weber talk I've heard. Of course I am totally wet behind the ears. Is there widespread agreement about this? I was advised quite strongly to get rid of my undersized Carter-Weber and get a Weber. My whole reason for beginning this search was a no start condition. The last thing I want is a hard starting carb.

I'm in PA with an 83 dl. We have emissions testing: the gas cap - that's it. In the mean time I am looking to simplify this EA81 to the maximum extent possible. I would love to disconnect every possible device that does not contribute to either efficiency or performance, with the emphasis on the former. What can I get rid of and exactly how? Right now I have a Carter-Weber carb, but I just bought a spare engine with the Hitachi. I am looking for a Weber carb to use with the Hitachi intake manifold.

Where IS the wheel page? I Wheely want to see it.

Come on you guys. A friend of mine is telling me these radiators are somehow different even though they look identical. He doesn't know soobs though. He got this idea somewhere that radiators off of A/C cars are double or something. My dl with ac radiator has two fans, other than that it looks the same.

Will a radiator out of an 84 GL no A/C work in an 83 DL with A/C? Aside from the two fans I mean. Is there any internal differences about the radiator with A/C?

Just an update on my incredibly frustrating:banghead: no start in cold weather. I was faced with a carb rebuild on a Carter-Weber --who would even want to do that-- so I tried Chevron Techron Concentrate -- and so far I've had immediate starts, that surging at cruising speed is gone, and the dieseling stopped. I'm ready for some single digit nights now. Thanks for the great information.

Just an update on my incredibly frustrating:banghead: no start in cold weather. I was faced with a carb rebuild on a Carter-Weber --who would even want to do that-- so I tried Chevron Techron Concentrate -- and so far I've had immediate starts, that surging at cruising speed is gone, and the dieseling stopped. I'm ready for some single digit nights now. Thanks for the great information. PS I do have another engine lined up, EA81 with 116K on it. It has a Hitachi carb. I'm still thinking of picking it up to play with (I can get it for $50 -80, depending on the deal) What do you think?

I found an EA81 in an 84 4WD wagon. There is a number on the block EA81 41267 I am wondering if this will fit in my 83 dl which is a 1.8 liter. Can you tell from the number what size this engine is?

Is there a good web site that handles MSD, Magnecor, Accell?

Thanks for the good information. I found that metal tag so I know it is a C-W. I sure won't soak that carb. If the fuel system cleaner(s) don't fix my cold start problem, I'll be in the market for a Hitachi carb with intake manifold. I can at least get a rebuild kit for that.

How can I tell what carb I have for sure. I am going by the linkage connecting on the driver's side = Carter-Weber, but I make some stupid mistakes. I need to know for sure. Also if it is a Carter-Weber, I need to do all possible cleanings because rebuild is not an option. Would you recommend soaking it in something? Or is MMO or some similar system cleaner just as good.

I have two fuel filters. One in the back next to the fuel pump, and one under the hood (that one has a third line coming straight out the top). A few weeks ago I was having power loss that was greatly improved by replacing the rear filter. The front one is relatively new also. The carb rebuild kit turns out to be expensive $200 plus from the factory. The Advance folks were talking about a Hitachi kit. I can't lay out that kind of money with knowing what the problem is. If I found a used Hitachi and manifold, that would fit my car right? Then later I could upgrade to a Weber. $31 for a fuel pump is different. There must be an answer to why this sucker starts warm but not cold. I will do a cold compression test and see what that says. I will put on a new fuel pump and another new filter. But I am not getting that Ah Hah! feeling at all.

I have my cylinder numbers correct so 1:165, 2:145, 3:190, 4:185... but I don't know how to interpret these numbers. I heard anything over 130 was good on an engine with 166K miles, but what about the difference between the cylinders? Is it significant. Does fuel pump pressure have anything to do with start up?

This is an 83 dl EA81 166K no start in cold, new plugs have black deposit. Started with ether a couple days. This morning that didn't work. In the warm shop... started right up. Compression test in order 1,2,3,4: 165, 145, 190, 185. I need some help on what to do next. It has a Carter-Weber that I can get a rebuild kit for (from Advanced Auto Parts). I have no experience with that, but life is for learning. Everything but wires have been replaced on the ignition side. Wires were new 18 months ago.

Thank you. You guys are great. I... I think I feel a Soob addiction comin on.