thedoctor

Thanks, but I still don't understand the vin thing. Could you tell from my vehicle identification number? Also, I am considering a weber 32/36 manual choke. I do have a hitachi manifold on my spare engine. I have been running the Carter/Weber. (what do you mean by feedback carb?) Biggest problem is hard starts in cold weather. And I do want good gas mileage. Would you suggest switching or keeping the carb I have?

I've got my ea81 1.8l engine out to replace head gaskets, clutch, valve job, and a few other things. One of the other things is a water pump and possibly an oil pump. Rockauto specifies vin 4 on one of their water pumps. What does that mean? my vin is JF1AM42B8DB410009 is that vin 4 or 5? Also the engine as 250k on it. I'm thinking new oil pump. yes? I do have the oil pump kit, o-rings etc. BUT I can't find a new oil pump. Autozone doesn't have it and RockAuto doesn't either. SO I have a spare engine and the pump on that one "looks" better, but it has the big sensor unit that goes with an oil pressure gauge. Mine has the small one. Can I just plug in the big one or should I swap sensors.

I drive an '83 dl here in Pennsylvania and of course I have already welded new rocker panels on her. These were derived from 4 Astro van rocker panels. Worked very well. My point is that this rust seen on your project car seems very familiar to me. I am surprised such is the case with a California car. Perhaps I should abandon my dream of finding a rust free older generation soobie. Help... I'm sinking into a depression.

Should I take the heads to the machine shop for evaluation? Also, I noticed a lot of stop leak gunk in the block water channels. How can I get that out?

Compression 1: 90 2: 102 3: 38 4: 118 See photos of cylinder 3 headgasket, piston, cyl wall. I see a possible leakage path between the water channel and the cylinder itself. This explains the water in oil but no oil in water, correct? I need advice on how far to break down this engine now that it is on the stand. How does one evaluate? Do the compression numbers say anything about the engine in general? Should I have a valve job or just replace the head gasket and be done with it. The clutch has about 100K on it but it doesn't slip. I am still looking for a Weber DVG 32/38. I don't want to bolt that single barrel back on.

Well, with the help of a friend, I have the engine out and on the bench. Actually I have two engines to work with, engine A just out and engine B from a junk yard. Plan is to check compression on each engine, and then pull the heads. I don't know what to look for other than hopefully see where engine A head gasket is bad. Will post compression findings. How does one check the crank shaft bearings, etc. How do you know how far to go once you start? PS I do want to grab the hitachi intake manifold from engine B and fit it with a Weber 32/36 DGV. I am looking for one, also the adaptor and air clearner etc.

It would have been nice, but my intake manifold gaskets looked pretty good. I didn't take any photos, but there is little reason to think my coolant is leaking into the oil pan by way of the intake manifold. Head gaskets are certainly on the table, but what else is there? Cracked block? Plan is to replace these good gaskets with new ones and torque them down. Make sure she runs and then do a compression check. Or is it now obvious that I should simply replace the head gaskets?

Thank you, Dirk. Incredibly helpful photos. I'll post some of my own soon.

I'm have a Carter-Weber single barrel carb. I bought another engine at the junk yard. It has a hitachi carb and I have been thinking of swapping intake manifolds and getting hold of a Weber carb. If this leak is intake manifold, this might be the time to do it. What do I look for when I open it up? Will a bad gasket be obvious?

ea81 runs strong and stays cool, yet there is a massive leak of coolant into the oil pan somehow. I have to add about a liter every couple hundred miles, and my dip stick shows a couple liters above the mark. White smoke on start up. What are the possibilities besides head gasket? If it were a head gasket, how can the performance be this good? Wouldn't it dog down? Wouldn't it overheat? Starts and runs perfectly. Could it be intake manifold gasket? There is no oil at all in the radiator. The coolant is clear. I will try to pressurize the cylinders and also take compression readings tomorrow. But I can't imagine seeing bubbles in the radiator if there is no oil in the radiator now. To me it seems there is already enough information to make an educated guess. I would like to read some guesses and case studies on this.

I read in another post that it could be the intake manifold that is leaking coolant. What is the best way to diagnose the problem?

My '83 dl is hanging in as my daily driver and I love it at 275,000 miles. Runs cool, has good power, but has now started loosing coolant into the oil. I automatically think head gasket, but I am puzzled as to why the performance is still so good. Please get me started on how to diagnose. Thanks.

Tire man says corrosion of my steel wheels creating a bad seal. I'd like to solve this. I'd like to buy four steel wheels that would fit my tires 155R13. Narrow tires compared to the GL I think... but please educate me if I'm wrong. I do need to be careful what wheels to buy, right? I want to buy plain old steel rims for my car and have them painted Toreador Red like my car... and then just use the little center hub cap. But first I need to find the right wheels. PLease let me now if anyone you know has wheels they don't know what to do with. Thanks

Thanks... I'll check the motor mounts and plan on getting this pipe welded. I appreciate y'alls help.

I called a local Subaru man... for 30 years he's been selling used Soobies. He's nearby in Marietta, PA and he's helped me out lots of times. BUT he says he could get a $50,000 fine for selling me a used Y-pipe because of the catalytic converter. Is this true everywhere?

My '83 DL daily driver developed an exhaust leak on the right side. The y-pipe flange, is cracked about half way around. I am trying to repair it for PA state inspection. Runs really bad with the leak... cyl 1 and 3 spark plugs get fouled real quick. Where can I find a replacement y pipe?

I like water pump. I just recently went through this on my 83. I always have some oil leaks I can live with... but they were worse because of the overheating... And I did have a "marble" phase in the development of the problem. I'm glad you're taking it in because the marble phase is followed immediately by the "marbles in the meat grinder" phase. But at least I knew what it was for sure. (You should plan to have one gallon of water for every three miles if you want to push it this far.)

Wanted: hub or spindle depending on what you call it... the part that bolts to the rotor. I have one that is badly worn. Anybody have one? 1983 dl 1.8L front wheel drive.

Got Hitachi manifold, need Weber. Preferably one that is rebuildable out of a bone yard. I have not been able to find one yet. My question is, when I get my Weber, will I be hooking any vacuum lines to it? Or can they all be plugged up?

Hi everyone. Well I successfully pulled my EA81, installed new clutch and seals. No more oil leaks! No more slipping! Unfortunately in the process I busted the right vacuum solenoid switch. That was a $100 mistake. Here's the question: What does this thing do anyway? I need a primer on vacuum hoses. I am thinking about replacing my Carter-Weber with a Weber. If I do that, will I need any of these vacuum lines? I had to up the idle and advance the timing in order to keep the engine running with the vac lines plugged after pulling the broken vac solenoid. I ordered the part, but before paying I would appreciate advice. Daily driver dl it is, no racing and I lean towards economy. Thanks

OK, so not very interesting... I agree. I just wanted a little hand holding. Nothing wrong with that, right? Anyway, I can tell you it is OK to tap the release bearing holder out of the release bearing on an EA81 using the appropriate socket. Likewise it worked fine to tap the new release bearing back on. I am learning a lot from pulling this engine. Maybe I will be able to start answering some questions instead of only ever asking them.

Since ruining a pilot bearing earlier today, I am reluctant to pound on anything for awhile but.... my release bearing appears to be pressed on to my release bearing holder EA81 FWD. I will try pushing it off with a wheel puller but any advice? Has anyone had one stuck? Should I be able to tap the new one on? I do want to replace the thing since I have the engine out. (I am having some fun though. Replaced rear and front seals, clutch, will set valves, and do valve cover gaskets. Looking forward to no leaks and no clutch slipping! )

Thank you. I found the problem. When the machine shop resurfaced my flywheel there was a slight bur around the edge of the center hole. This caught up my pilot bearing and started me down the wrong path. I cleaned that up with an abrasive wheel on a drill press and the new pilot bearing went in with just a few taps. Now I'm having problems with the release bearing. See new possible new post if my search for answers doesn't show up anything. Moral of story: A pretty flywheel can still have a bur in its hole.

How do I get the pilot bearing into the flywheel. I should have had it pressed in at the machine shop I guess, but the old one practically fell out. I just ruined one trying to hammer it in. Now I have just the old one, which I am reluctant to use. Any tricks on how to get it in there? torch? vise? I have to get this thing on the road by Monday.

Thanks, Red. "Small is beautiful" as EF Schumacher said. I'll keep my smaller clutch.