thedoctor

OK. That's a good list to work on. I think I need to purchase a device to connect to OBDII data port... one that will allow me to clear this code without disconnecting battery. Also one that will allow me to read o2 sensor data. Any recommendations on what device would serve the budget minded amature mechanic?

Mom's 2002 Outback keeps throwing the code p0420. I'm told this means "catalytic converter". History (within the last six months): 2002 Outback, odometer 165,000, purchased from used Subaru sales/repair business. - Engine bearing went out. Highway breakdown within 1000 miles of purchase. - Short block replaced. - Check engine p0420. Shop replaced cat saying maybe the engine failure ruined the cat. - Check engine p0420. Shop says 2002 Outbacks have this problem, not 2001, not 2003. Shop says we could 1) try various fuel additives, 2) replace cat with genuine Subaru part for around $1000, or 3) replace cat with a high performance cat Magnaflow for $500. - Installed Magnaflow - Check engine p0420. Shop says again its just this year for some reason. Options: 1) replace magnaflow with Subaru cat, and receive $500 credit, 2) swap 2002 computer out with a 2001 Outback, since its really the computer that is having the problem, or 3) keep trying different additives. When I mentioned o=o2 sensor, the shop said there's another code for that, so that isn't the problem. So what to do? Is this 2002 Outback cat problem a well known problem? Because I'm not finding a lot of talk about it. How exactly does information about the catalytic converter flow to the computer? How are o2 sensors related? How to get this check engine light to go away so my poor mother can drive in peace?

Now that you mention it, my local vintage Subaru guru has been trying to move me up a decade for quite awhile now. But he says not too far because of "interference" engines that came in the laster 90's. I never had time to research that. All I know is maybe a '96 is better than a '99 for someone like me trying to keep body and Soobie together for at least 400K. Then there's style. Which of the 90's offers the beauty of an '83? That's an actual question. Once I started seeing pizza box edges on fenders, I stopped paying attention. I know the Outbacks are cool looking, but they are way in the future. And when do rain gutters disappear. I like my Quick n Easy roof racks. See photo.

Hey sorry I lost the part number and source. I think I have a bad wheel bearing on the above, although there are only maybe 10,000 miles on the sealed bearings I put in last time. Axle good. Hub ok. Castle nut torqued. Washer not reversed. Weird noise cornering right at speed. Nothing doing tight radius slow in the parking lot. Don't know what else to try, but replace wheel bearings. Looking for recommended best front wheel bearings and seals if needed for 1983 dl EA81 1.8 liter.

What about odometer readings? If you're really going faster than your speedometer says, you must also be going farther than odometer says... yes? Do you guys convert odometer readings for fuel efficiency calculation?

Sold!

Thanks for the replies. I thought it might have been a stupid question, but I see there are some different approaches here.

Thanks for your reply. I did post something over there after thinking about it. I'm looking everywhere. Keep an eye out for me. Appreciate any ideas.

I can fix the bumper... sort of, and I can pull out the front so the radiator sits in there straight again, but where can I find another right front signal lens? I'll attach a photo of the piece(s).

What product gets coated on the outside of the seal where it contacts the aluminum, and what gets coated on the inside of the seal where it contacts the crank shaft.

Eureka. I found the problem... and it's me! But seriously, I decided to have another thorough look see at the entire situation. I just let the engine run and I stood there... and lay there gawking and searching for even one drop of coolant coming from anywhere. Nothing. And then for some unknown reason I reached in and grabbed the accelerator cable and pulled. And bless me soul there was a wee leprechaun peeing out from under me carburetor. I let off the accelerator and the green stream stopped! The coolant bypass hose had a slit in it that would only open up under higher pressure! Now I know y'all knew very well my compression numbers did not tell a tale and my spark plug differences were nil. Y'all were just being polite. I guess we see what we're afraid to see. But I am one happy guy right now.

About 1000 miles ago, I replaced head gaskets and had a valve job on my 1983 dl, ea81. Engine is running great but I have a persistent front oil leak, and a more worrisome coolant disappearance of about 1 qt / 100 miles. No visible external leaks. Compression pre-repair: 1:90, 2:102, 3:38, 4:118 I did find evidence of HG failure on cyl 3. Compression post-repair: 1:165, 2:157, 3:167, 4:160. Something is going on over there on the left side. Plugs 2 and 4 show darker than 1 and 3. See attached photos. Sorry for out of focus, but you can still see the difference when I hold them side-by-side. I did go back and redo the intake manifold gaskets, which made no difference. I would appreciate any suggestions as to my next move.

No expert here, but I've had my share of trouble in the axle/hub department. If the noise comes and goes, I would highly suspect the castle nut/dome washer/cone washer/hub/axle connection. I've already changed axles and wheel bearings only to have "that same damned noise" come back. I was obviously doing something wrong. And I did not have the domed washers on backwards. Both the domed and cone washers need to be in good shape, and new ones give me a nice cozy feeling. I also recently learned to like a little anti-seize compound in there. New hubs are now officially obsolete, so stay on top of this little maintenance item.

I believe I revived this thread because I had a question, which may be too stupid to answer. But here goes again: Can anti-seize compound be used on the cone washer/axle assembly? It's not that I'm worried about trouble getting the cone washer off. I just want to know if the integrity of the connection depends on metal to metal gripping or is it more the dynamic pressure from the compressed split cone? likewise the splines of the axle and how they engage those of the hub. Does that connection depend upon bare clean metal to metal contact? Or does it simply depend upon the axle being pulled through the hub and held in place. But now I see my answer here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90166

Can anti-seize be used on the axle/hub/cone washer assembly?

I sure wish the photos were still showing in this thread. I have many questions about the vacuum system on my 83 dl. It's all messed up. Hate to duplicate this effort. Can anybody see these images?

I used the bar of a chuck key for my drill press, but a punch is good too.

Can Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket be substituted for the Loctite 518? I'm having trouble finding the latter and I need to seal my oil pump as soon as possible.

Just a quick update. Everything still seems ok, but from the looks of it, I might just have a four speed dipstick... yikes.

I would appreciate a little more information. If there is a problem with RockAuto, please reveal. I have an 83 dl FWD and I am looking to replace the front brakes from the rotors out, so to speak, new or rebuilt calipers, rotors etc. If RockAuto is bad... why? And who is the best?

I'd be interested in the bumpers. Let me know.

I just picked up two ball joints from Autozone... same part number FA1269 (for 83 DL) and they look totally different. One is about 1 cm shorter than the other. The longer one doesn't have a Moog label, but it has a detached separate boot and an extra bolt with it. Can someone please explain? Moog K9081 comes with these separate parts. What is the bolt for? And why do I not want a boot that is already securely fastened to the hardware?

I estimate that 2 quarts of tranny oil came out when I drained the old. And that too showed double overfilled on the dip stick. So I sucked out enough of the new to read full on my dip stick... and I am no longer getting oil coming up through the speedometer cable. That could just mean my transmission is only really half full and I still have my seal problem. Unless someone can tell me I'm ok with one quart of synchromesh transmission oil, I'm going to continue to worry a bit. However, I don't mind not having oil dripping on my feet. And shifting is smooth and quiet now, whereas with the old crude in there, I was getting grinding on 2nd and 3rd. Still can't easily downshift into 2nd though.