rae houghton

Was looking at the two short belts today. The 'newer one' from the parts car was a DAYCO and I noticed that it was actually a shade thinner than the GATES belt from the 'car to be fixed'. I was tempted to leave the old short belt in the car.....take a chance it would last another 50000 km before changing them again. But in the end decided to use the newer belt despite it being thinner. I DO wonder about the strength of these belts....and I wonder about keeping the 2nd used belt as a backup. New belts seem the go....but they are expensive to keep if you don't get a chance to use them....

I have looked over my job before taking out the 'shot' boots and axle of my primary car..... I notice that I probably did not have to undo the sway bar nut. I am pretty sure that the entire wheel assembly with brakes and calipers and all will swing away from the lower arm when the tie rod and ball joint are undone. then take out and install new axle and put ball joint and tie rod back in. If anyone thinks this will not work as planned, I would love to hear / read before I make a 'botch' of it and find myself with time comsuming problems. thanks RAE

note to Bumble beast...got image shack photo onto this reply...but message came up that I was ""not allowed to use this file extension in this community"" whatever that means exactly.

I have been doing the same job as you the last couple of days....and had a 'mother' of a time with the tie rod UNTIL I read about using the hammer on the steering assembly. VEry robust part of car...hit it hard a few times (with the castle nut off)....and POP! then i had even more trouble with the ball joint...finally remembered I had a puller in my garage somewhere, found it....and found a way to squeeze it in from behind the hub area and locked the screw into place. I needed a breaker bar with an extension to turn that screw until it finally popped. I really thought I was going to break something it was such a stress on the ball joint. ....BUT it popped with a BANG! ....noise was so loud it brought the neighbour out to see what was going on ???!!!! Somehow I don't think a hammer would have done the job....and I certainly could NOT have swung it in the space I had. thanks to all those persons who have been helping me out. RAE

thanks...I'll give it a go. As for the axle ...it is out. And I did not have to take off the calipers and brakes. Just undid the tie rod, sway bar, and ball joint. Heck of a time getting the ball joint off, but then found an old puller that I forgot I had, until I saw a picture of it when I looked up tools to remove ball joints. I have accumulated a few tools over the years, but seldom have had need to use them. Now to get the broken booted one off and replace it with the better one. thanks again. Rae

Must be a big demand for converters. I just got a phone call from a guy representing one of those firms that collects them. He will actually come to my house to collect it...as they go up and down the coast to wreckers to collect them. I was offered 40$ by one company...don't know about this one...says it depends. interesting to know.

thanks for your thoughts....

My parts car is a 1994 L- Series wagon.

this thread has me intrigued. Catalytic converters have been around for some time. Is it common for inspectors in all states to check for emissions efficiency? I have a CAT which I shall shortly remove from my parts car. I have been told I can get 40$ for it from one of the local recyclers. But perhaps it is worth keeping in case it should be needed. Of course in an above post by Subaru Fanatic...he suggests they live forever (or as long as the vehicle) so maybe keeping it is not necessary.

thanks...... I was going to keep the shorter belt which isn't broken in the boot of the wagon ...just in case.

so her is what EDRACH writes Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift tool. Remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to)> Pull the DOJ away from the tranny, it should move freely now, but won't quite come off Tug on the wheel hub and pull with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (and wood) You might need to us a smaller tool to pound the spindle out the last inch or so... Now carefully remove the axle from the car. QUESTION...IS THIS POSSIBLE ON THE 1990 - 1994 L-SERIES?

thanks again for trying Bumblebeast....but when the url gets into the dialogue box....that is as far as it gets. dialogue box will not send, will not cancel and will not ""OK"". I have to refresh the page to get rid of it. I have no Adblock.... So don't know what the problem is. But thanks for your patience. ( I also cann;ot sign up for Photobucket...just won't go past the 'create account' POINT. But thanks so...can I change axle without taking callipers off. If Idisengage the lower mounting arm...will that hlepdo it? or is that asking for real trouble? rae

nice thought JesZek. but the JPG is not a url under the picture....just a number like PC030087.JPG it is in the url address differently for example https://imageshack.com/i/p52WzquKj now for another question...in your experience is it the longer timing belt that usually snaps or the shorter one?

Got the pin out no problem with a long bullet nail with a 5mm head. Have marked the stub with a paint spot to be sure it goes back where it should. Was looking at my mechanics workbook. (would be better to have a book that isn't so complicated like a Gregory's.... My book is for real mechanics and shows how to recondition parts. As such it assumes I know how to remove things and what and where they are located. it refers to a stabilizer rod...I assume that is a sway bar???

Hello Dinky, looking at the URL address I have https://imageshack.com/ eye /p53WzquKj. I just wrote slash "eye" because both my computer keeps turning the "letter eye into an El (l) because it thinks the letter eye refers to a person (me). so it should read imageshack.com with the letter EYE not an l

Dave T ...you wrote you "primed the oil pump with a drill before putting in timing belts" what does that mean.....primed with a drill? As for ticking...my Subaru I have had for 6 years. It has been ticking for six years. On and off....sometimes very loud. I would like to get rid of that sound. People actually look at my car if it is stationary and ticking...it is so noticeable. My other parts car (before I took some parts out) also ticked. I was told by a subuaru mechanic that this is a characteristic that is common in the older subarus....and I shouldn't worry about it. But my wife and I do, despite the placating verbal offer of advice.

anybody know about catalytic converter buyers in Queensland , Australia? Or Australia period?

Will send 'snapshot' of what I see on "imageshack" Bumble beast if you send me your email address . then you will know what I see. and where the jpg. picture fits into the scheme of things. my email address is raelph4@gmail.com I use this address for when I might get spam...then , if that happens I just delete the address and make a new one.

Actually Bumblebeast....the jpg. does not show up in the http address box...but under the picture. But if you send me an email address that you don't mind me having, I can send you a snapshot ot what I see on the computer screen, with address in upper left corner. rae

I will take some pics. ...and give the web link... Meantime. yes there is a big box with (must be) catalytic converter as they are required in Australia. And that heat shield may keep my cling wrap from melting too. talking to someone else today. he says put the pit facing up. knock it down and out. when finished , knock it down and in...to complete the job. I thought the hole as tapered and that was why some one said the pin had to be knocked out one hole and put back in , going back up the same hole...which is why I have ben confused. if I can knock it straight down and out. ...then knock it back in straight down and in....then that makes things easier.

a person can use the same pin again???? Or is a new one required...Aare they easy to buy. Now I just talked to someone and they said for the 1990 l - series that a 5mm punch is needed. I was surprised....but maybe the 1990 model is different to the 80's models.... The concave section I could see with a small torch did seem big...but the pin inside didn't seem to fill the space I was looking at.... I would prefer your idea Dave and use a nail cut off as a punch...but if it is 5mm....that is not going to happen.

dave -T Passenger side USA or passenger side Australia? Driver's side (here in Australia ) is where the exhaust problem lies. .... and the side I need to change. Huge contraption under there...wide and flat..... Colchester...where is that? Some cities are located in various countries....like Edmonton , Australia, and Moscow, USA

thanks Dave T....the nail idea is worth looking into. I suppose that the older model GL series didn't have all the exhaust stuff in the way like my 1990 and 1994 cars? That stuff really seems to be a pain. I can see driving out the pin.....but when it come to putting it back.....HOW TO DRIVE THE PIN UP from the underside with the wide exhaust metal in the way.??? PS Jus tlooked at the mighty Bumblebeast restoration thread....nice pictures.

TRIED AGAIN TO POST A PIC....BUT FAILED....GOING TO cv JOINT THREAD NOW TO ASK ANOTHER QUESTION.

Someone suggested somewhere to use 'cling wrap or saran wrap" to keep the grease in a broken boot. I have tried that...first putting in some new molybideum grease and then wrapping with wrap. Worked pretty good so far...but I do worry that the wrap will melt as it is close to the exhaust assembly.