rae houghton

Did you ever get around to doing that job Irgvanman? What caused the most trouble? I have removed a couple of these rack and pinion assemblies from wrecked cars and found the catalytic converter got in the way. Now I am thinking of trading my old one in for one of the two that I took out. But wondering how you tell if the ones I removed are in good condition. Anyone have an idea how to inspect without taking the whole darned gear assembly apart? Any input here from anyone is welcome.

thanks Steptoe...I have found a 2nd hand one.....Just thought getting a new one would be wiser. The 2nd hand one is 1 hour away and costs as much as a new one. ($70) and they expect to get the money to install it too. ... which I cannot do anyway...as it is a lot of driving in a car with no clutch cable haha. But I continue to try. Next will be to find a parts company in UK and ask away. I wonder...what about NZ? Again thanks for your reply.

anyone have a contact in Japan.? You would think that , as British drive on the right, that maybe they have the right product. But I wonder if it is exactly the same. Any ideas on that Steptoe / Bennie / others. What with models having different names everywhere, makes it tricky. (I wonder if they even sold these in Britain)

WELL THANKS eL fREDDO (bENNIE) and Steptoe. Now I have phoned another dealership ...then phoned ANDY and gave number you photographed above (steptoe) and Andy checked the national Subaru dealer network, then Ebay, then Repco, Then Burson's (I'd done Bursons already, but he checked anyway)....and NO LUCK! Unbelieveable.! 2nd hand may be the only answer

Steptoe....if you have time can you give me the name of the dealer who sold you a clutch cable for the L Series. I might need someone who knows how to look at a catalogue (thanks El Freddo) I have had trouble at SuperCheap with finding parts for my car as they often get the L Series mixed up with some other model. as for my EA82 engine....NOT very powerful I have noticed.

El Freddo....interesting about the clutch plate. Anyway I have a spare clutch plate I took out of the car above. (along with its tranny) Unfortunately...no clutch cable.

thanks for that info El Freddo....saves me telephoning California if their cable won't fit a RHD. and yes Steptoe....I will phone ANOTHER Subaru dealer....maybe they have a parts person that is able to find a cable. (although the last guy was very helpful and called me back with his information) El Freddo...so I have a black sheep of the family.???? Why so? Are they a bit different to the others...not the same in North America?

this is the parts list

tried to determine which of the two clutch assemblies was for my car. i have a VIN number that is not USA ...so they wouldn't help me. The parts code is identical but there is a description for two. (different lengths cable) I have a Station Wagon. I am GUESSING that SW means Stationwagon. I have a 4WD and I think I have a GL series. here in Australia they call my vehicle a 1990 Sportswagon but I believe it is the L- series. I am thinking of ordering (thru somebody) from the USA but only if I can dertermine exxactly what cable I need. thanks for any input. Rae

I wonder if this is the product I need? 37211 Cable Assembly-Clutch 37026GA081 Notes: 69- AMT-B & 4WD Fitting Vehicle Options: (3C+S+SW).(GL+GL/B+GL10/B+4WD/B+RX/B) +SW.DL, <90MY>3C.(DL+RS) +S.DL +SW.DL

Steptoe (and others) ....a very good introduction to tricky removal process. I took the seat out. thus I could get my body laid back and looking up at assembly ....partially blocked by steering column shaft. But could see end of clutch cable in place. My hands are smallish....but taking out entire assembly may be the go. thanks for instructions. (my service manual gets a bit complicated sometimes )

In Australia the steering shaft is right between and over the clutch and brake pedal. Tricky tricky. but i like the idea that a plate could be on the inside of the engine compartment and have it removeable. They should do that for all cars....or at least make is so it can be loose and hands can get in from the other side. Must write Subaru

now I know people are pulling my leg. A kick plate?

Thanks El Freddo and Dave T for replies. KICK plate. didn't know thee was on that could be removed. In fact I don't know what a kick plate is except it sounds like it is down by the feet.

When you suggest it is the PP...is that because you think the PP is worn beyond recommended limits. (excuse my ignorance)? I was looking at this thread, because my clutch cable is broken. I need to replace it, and was looking here for information. It is a tricky thing for an ignorant Backyard mechanic to fix. Should I take / undo the whole pedal to replace the cable? or is there another more practical way.? i can barely see under the dash let alone get my hands in there. I am thinking best to remove my seat so I can get a better view and access to the pedal system. Any tidbits of help would be appreciated. Here in Australia a new part is hard to get but I would like a new cable if possible. When I phoned an auto parts chain they said they could only get one custom made for $380. A wrecker I could get a used one for $70. ...(but how worn) A nearby Subaru dealership sent me a parts list for the cable. Said the cable did not come with all the parts, and I had to pin - point which part is broken. Well it is the cable...(broken at the pedal / firewall area.that should be simple enough to purchase.....but not so simple to purchase. subar dealer contacted Subaru , who said they don't have OR MAKE that part anymore anyway, any and all comments welcomed

Gauge cluster ....This is the same as the instrument cluster I presume? The temperature gauge in a car I looked at is not working. It was suggested that the gauge cluster needed to be changed. But perhaps some other reasons. ' My mechanic , who I use when I can't figure out things myself (and with help from all the minds on this site) says they are a pain in the rump roast. He doesn't like to work on them. Probably doesn't want customers to be angry when they see his bill for such a job. Any suggestions to make life easier? Some other tests before going to such trouble? This car I was looking at with a partner needed a Roadworthy to get on the road. Probably no one would notice that the temp. gauge wasn't working. But , for one's own peace of mind, you need to know if the car was overheating.? Rae

And thanks again DaveT

Right....yes it will also be in the garage here. .... Yes the sun (and the salt air) here is hard on cars. Thanks for your reply Rae

Thanks Bennie, If a person was storing the tranny for later use, what would be the best way to keep it intact , .....should one leave tranny gear oil in place? Cover openings with what plastic bags. stuff a sock in? suggestions. remove gear oil and replace when planning to reuse tranny turn gears manually every so often? thanks

If you have time to post pics, would love to see them. I suppose when a person pulls out a tranny, and puts it back, or replaces it, the seals should always be replaced???? This is a real question to anyone caring to answer.

hey Dave T....Thanks for the thoughts, both for myself and Stallone Panerai and others. At the moment I am taking apart a parts car and want to get to the clutch and transmission safely. Perhaps you could direct me to some instructions, as my mechanics book is so detailed that it sometimes confuses me. I have jacked up the car and placed the differential on support so that I can move the propeller shaft. And have supplorted the engine. I don't have a hoist. And I don't have an engine hoist. So if you could direct me to a forum post (can't seem to get what I want) ....that would help me to get at and replace clutchplate safely, that would be very helpful. Thanks Rae

So excuse my ignorance. is there such a thing as 0w-40? I have an old 1990 Loyale (L-Series) that has been tapping for 5 years....and still runs well. My mechanic, who specializes in Subaru s for the past 40+ years, says this is a common phenomenon and I could possibly try to do something about it, and it may still tap. So I use, as he recommends, 20w-50. My engine still taps, and I worry about it , but it still keeps running. I live in Queensland Australia, and temperatures above 30 celsius are common. In fact 30+ every day of January this year. So 20w-40 or 5w - 40 would all be better you are suggesting Carfreak85.

may I ask...on the radiator there are TWO fans. Is one supposed to 'kick-in' at a certain temp. I noticed my main fan is on immediately, whilst the second on is not on. I am NO expert on how cars work. There used to be an airconditioning radiator in front of the existiing radiator. But it didn't work, and the normal radiator was not cooling the engine. So I took it out (air con) and now the flow of air is fine to the radiator. But the second fan. It's purpose.? For the first time in several years the engine is overheating and water is being lost in the rad and the rad overflow. I can see no leaks . And am non-plussed. So checking this out I noticed the second fan not turning and thought I would ask the forum what it is I don't know. Thanks in advance. Rae

Very interesting Dave T. Very. Thanks for that tip.

thanks Dave T for your reply. Yes I saw that product on the shelf, and wondered if that would be useful, but , as the person behind the counter could not see how any product could work as a vacuum leak would suck in the product, he obviously did not know how to use the product to visually inspect for a vacuum leak. Well, I have to admit ignorance, because that thought had also occurred to me. How to use any product to "SEE" where the leak is (if there is one) If you or anyone can point out how to use it for this procedure I will no doubt feel pretty dumb.....but every time I work on my car I feel rather dumb. Yes I learn each time, but never feel very confident. So , without showing any more ignorance....giving some instructions here would be very welcome. Thanks again for your interest and your reply. ( On an aside) I see that Jezek is home in the Honduras again. I wonder how many US members he may have visited while in USA. I have checked on that adapter he mention for bolting Weber to manifold. Another 80$ if purchased in Australia....and then there is the replacement filter for the Weber. Boy would I like to get this carby working properly without putting out all that cash. (I am a pensioner....and not on a very good wicket unfortunately....the Aussie gov't here for every dollar you make over 40$ per week, they reduce your pension 50cts on each dollar (make 140$ and you lose 50$ off your pension). tough to make ends meet here. So finding a cheap solution is very helpful.