ScoobySchmitty

Now that I think about it, you're right. Dealer shops use rate books, so I'll get charged big time. I'll call around tomorrow and see who would do it (correctly, that is.)

Long time, no see to those who might remember me... Anyway, my 91 is running well as usual. Since I last posted I installed a new muffler and she sounds just great! Now my front bearing is REALLY begging for attention, so I am going to replace it. It seems to me I am not only going to need the bearing, but the inner and outer seals as well. It looks like I'm going to spend around $60 for the whole shebang. Does anyone have any tips/tricks to doing this? I do know I need to take the knuckle to an auto shop to have the old one pressed out, and the new one pressed in. Would a Subaru dealership do this for me for a small fee??? ScoobySchmitty

Just FYI, I know snotrocket put a EJ22 in the bug. I don't know how he fit in in there though, so maybe he'll catch this post

Hell, you could go find an EJ20T out of a WRX and drop that in. I'm still looking for that blasted magazine that had the article on how to do that (Sport Compact Car) but no place around here sells it! YEAAARRRGGBLE!!!!

I second this. Any time I have had a stuck bolt, I just take a torch to it for a few min, then try again. In between these "heat treatments", add a little bit of the penetrating oil. The heat will draw it into the threads (in your case splines), and help to loosen it. Just don't do the oil & heat at the same time. The resulting fireball can do serious damage to your eyebrows

No, that happens at the dealership when you purchase the car

Ok, sounds good. my only question is whether or not you have the wiring diagram for the scoob? Instead of purchasing the wiring harness, I simply cut (!) the connector for the OEM radio, and simply matched up the wires, based on the wiring diagram for the JVC, and the wiring diagram for the OEM radio. It works great From what I have learned, it seems that most all radios have a common ground, and it is universally the black wire. The little dashes on the yellow wire should mean "yellow/black". Are you sure it is not one of the speaker wires?? Check out the wiring again, hopefully it's just a simple mixup. Good Luck!

Oh yeah?!?!?!? My MOTHER has FORGOTTEN more about TRANSMISSIONS & GEAR OIL than you could EVER learn! er...oops....sorry, wrong thread :o

What's the sticker price? I would think that you should get a fair percentage of the sticker price off, considering it is less than new. At least 10-15%, or 20% if you can manage it Good Luck!

Thanks for the reply, I'm looking into getting new plugs/wires for Jackrabbit. I said "th'ell with this" and just put in the Subaru filter I bought. I asked that because the nut at autozone was bragging how his Chevy's fuel filter costs about as much as a beer and mine as much as an entree at the local tie-n-jacket beistro. Oh well, it works anyway

I have a couple of questions about the fuel and ignition systems on the Legacy: How much did you shell out for those Magnacore plug wires? What denotes a good plug wire (resistance, etc?) Just bought a new fuel filter for the Legacy, but it looks like I could just put any old filter in there. Did you use a different filter??? Thanks for the reply in advance!

I would have hated to be the dealer on this one Oh well, S**t hapens, you just have to deal with it. From what I've seen on this board, it sounds like a good run of the mill Forester. ferret was right, if it is automatic, it puts 90% to the front, 10% to the rear, and will shift power to the gripping wheels when a wheel slips. The 5 speed is 50/50 all the time (why I like it in my Legacy), and as far as driving, I would say it's the best mix of front wheel drive stability and rear wheel drive predictability. In any case, hope you get it for a deal! I would work that dealer on the check engine light, see if you can have him drop a couple hundred, 1k maybe? Good Luck!

I installed a JVC in my car not too long ago, but I didn't have this problem. Maybe, you got the accessory and regular power wires swapped? See if it works in the ACC position, and if it does, that might be the problem. I'll look up the wire colors for the stereo when I get home. Good Luck!

I haven't had a chance to check the MAF, but I think I'll just make a list of things to look at, and that will be #1. I'm also thinking check the plugs, wire condition, 02 sensor, etc.

I was getting around 27-28 mpg all around driving for the longest time, and pretty happy with it. Lately, I noticed just the slightest drop in performance (though I still kept pace w/ my buddy's BMW), and about 24-25 mpg mileage. When you drive about 100 miles a day, that gas can add up, especially with climbing prices! All I did was change the oil (5w30 for REALLY cold weather...) including an oil additive, XR-1 or something like that. I also washed and re-oiled my cone filter. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Assuming it is stock, I would go to a dealership, and have a tech look at it. Maybe they can order a mag for you if it is indeed stock. The other idea might be to check 1stsubaruparts.com. They have a lot of OEM parts for low prices. I'll check around and see if I can find anything on Cal Cel. Cheers!

If you lived any closer than LA I would ask about the rear hatch condition. I would assume it's rust free

I swear I once got (hope you are sitting) 34 mpg on a trip to Ohio. The trick? I was following my grandparents as they towed a 5th wheel; IE, 55 all the way, and VEERRRRRYYYY SLLLLOOOWWW STARTS!!! I damn near lost my mind! Oh wait, that happened a while ago...

R U sure it's not a bad wheel bearing? I mistook a wheel bearing problem for rubbing brakes before. Does the noise increase and decrease, depending on which direction you turn the wheel (left = louder, right = quieter/gone, and vice versa)? If this is the case, another quick check you can do is to raise the beast on jackstands, and try and wobble the wheel you think the noise is coming from. There should be NO wobble,(that's a weird phrase), and if there is, chances are you have a bad wheel bearing. Hope this helps out!

I'd pick up the Legacy 5 spd w/sunroof. I would LOVE a sunroof in the Jackrabbit

I assume I just put it on the brake pad?

Ok, bought these brakes about 1k miles ago, and I was very happy with them. No warp-pulse, very smooth, and QUIET! Now, suddenly, these suckers are screaming like banshees, but only at certain (moving) braking strengths. They will squeak anywhere from barely engaged to hard braking, and they never squeak in the same spot!!! Anyone have any ideas, especially ones that don't require $$? I'm a bit short on cash right now...

Weird that a 2.2L would go crappy, especially after only 260k miles They are really good engines. I have worked on this one, and GM's venerable 3800 series, and while a good engine, it's a bit of a pain to work on. This one I LIKE. Hope you find something better. For the price you are stating, you can probably find something like a 95-96 legacy or outback. But the fact still stands, STICK with the 2.2L. There are far far more good 2.2L's out there than there are bad ones. Good luck!

:slobber: :slobber: That is EXACTLY what I want to do to the Jackrabbit. drop an EJ20T in, better clutch, lightweight flywheel, turbo timer, and awaaayyy I go! I'd hide the intercooler, put on a set of Legacy GT 18 spoke wheels, and leave the trunklid rusty. The absolute ULTIMATE sleeper! I can only IMAGINE the look on the face of some poor schmo who just had his backside handed to him by a rusty old Subaru :D

Howdy Beeblebrox the 4th I think you'll find anywhere between 40-50 for steel wheels the norm @ junkyards, while some places like tirerack.com will package deal them with snow tires. My suggestion: shop around. PS, say "Hi" to Ford for me