ScoobySchmitty

Sounds like it. The only weird thing is that you say it drops after it goes under 9-10 mph under the setting. Mine acts just like yours (91 Legacy, MT), but I have never had that dropping problem. You might want to check the system out.

Nice :-D PS, it was modded a bit, better wires & plugs, cold air intake, different exhaust. so, 180-190 sounds close.

Is it auto or manual? keep an eye on the trans if it's manual, the early legacy's had weak bearings in the trans (had to replace two on my old 90)

Send the pics to Subaru, with a single note: NOW it's the Baja!

Testament of the EJ22's ability: My buddy and I did a little drag off a stop light last night. He has a 95 BMW 325is, and I have the Jackrabbit (see sig). Off the line, run up to 6200 in first, clutch, 2nd, and drop, and she TAKES OFF to the moon again! back up to 6200, clutch, 3rd, and stop (speed limit 45 in a HEAVILY patrolled area. Just doing this we could have been in deep you-know-what). Not only did the Jackrabbit keep pace, she stayed ahead of the Bimmer, an I-6 w/ 180-190 horses! I'm so proud I did notice my buddy shifted to 3rd REALLY early (probably around 4000), but I'm still proud that my baby held her ground against that bavarian plushmobile

A clicking usually means a bad starter solonoid. Anyone know if you can replace these on Soob starters, or do you need to get a whole new starter???

A friend of mine showed me this months issue of Sport Compact Car Magazine (March), and it has details on doing an EJ20T swap into any new gen Soob. You might want to try and find that mag, my buddy found it at Barnes & Nobles. Good Luck on the swap!

What's funny is that I inadvertently tried your method. I used the key that works to make my copy. What is screwy is that the original works better than the copy! Weird, guess I should have gone to a different place. In any case, I'll try the lube up, and if that doesn't work, then... I live with it until I get $$ flow again. College money vacuum services suck. Literally.:boohoo:

It feels like the tumbler. I have a spare key in my wallet, and when I have to use it, it does the same thing. My regular key just started doing this now too. It's not as bad, but you can tell the lock is binding, it's not the linkage. Anyway, I'll see if I have any graphite in the garage. I should be able to get in, now that my Dad's finished fixing the rear diff in his 96 dodge

The lock on my driver's side door has been binding lately. I'm worried I might have to replace it, and I really don't want to have to do that. I'd like to try some lubricant, but I am avoiding WD-40, graphite is messy, and I don't know how well silicone would stay in the lock. Any other ideas, or maybe opinions on why any of the above three lubes might work? Thanks!

Why there would be any difference in the fit is beyond me. Then again, stranger things have happened w/ auto manufacturers. How intact is your old bumper? I would get the new one you want, and compare the two for mount positions and fits. They can't be horribly different. Hope this helps out.

Do you have A/C? It might be your compressor's clutch, maybe went snafooey? Have you looked in the bay, checked to see if anything is loose?

As far as I can tell, it appears it is fairly easy to work on. I have had to pull the tranny only so far, and that wasn't hard, just time consuming. As far as the engine itself, it seems pretty simple, and similar in design to other pancake engines, besides the OHC system.

I would LOVE to see someone do a EJ20T swap in from a WRX. THAT would really be awsome. All the HP gains, without too much work (assuming the wiring harness is not too bass-ackwards)

I believe all the EJ series motors will bolt up to the transmissions subaru puts out, but don't quote me on that (like I did you )

Was the Forester ever left in the "tender care" of a 15 min oil change shop? Some moron might have drained the diff to replace the oil, but forgot to FILL it again!

Oh Oh Oh! Does it involve a cutting torch and a blatant disregard for starting fires in tall grass??? Actually, I would like to hear how you cured the "redneck rattle".

Wires, plugs...And the IAC valve. The idling problem can be caused by that, and 2.2's are chronic when it comes to that part.

I know how to fix it... Get a 5 speed

Uhm, sparkplugs, right? I used some Bosch platinum 2's in my old 90 I had, didn't notice too much of a difference. Then again, I didn't replace the wires, either.

Uhm...yeah, I think so. I don't think there's anything you can do to "fix" a cat. (Yes, I know, BIG setup for a joke, please leave it alone you looneys) You could always go to some muffler shops nearby and see what it would cost to replace it. I know replacing my own cat would be a B***H to do, it's pretty rusty. (Damn one liners). Anyway, before I type out anymore pun fodder, that's my take on it. Good Luck!

Just my $.02, I would replace all that looks fairly worn in the assembly. If it looks in good shape, then I would leave it. I have no idea about the idler pulleys, so I won't say anything about them (Josh, help here???). As far as the seals, I'm not sure how hard it would be to replace them. The most I've done to my 91 is replace the clutch fork, and clutch assembly while I was at it. My rule of thumb is that if it is a pain in the caboose to get to a part, replace it and any other worn parts while you are at it.

With snow on the road, I constantly fishtail out of every turn It's fun and I get some practice on counter-steering control. Just remember: DON'T clutch in the middle of the slide. You stop sliding

I can't believe someone actually made a site for that old old chemical joke! That's just about as bad as aircraft mechanics sending the new guy out for "jet wash" :brolleye:

Awww....lucky stiff (rimshot)