erikvr

I have already replaced the horn twice. Connector's been sprayed. Any other thoughts?

The horn on my 97 Impreza sedan is driving me crazy. I don't know my head from my wrench with electrical. Hoping for guidance because I am going to (gasp) pay someone to finally fix it. Bought the car and the horn didn't work. The horn has blown twice and when I take it in, they don't see a short but a dead horn. The horn also dies when it is wet out...but always comes back to life when I take it somewhere. I just want an easy fix and am thinking of rewiring everything on that circuit. Is it crazy or is there a better idea?

97 Legacy L 2.2L AT, and when I go over 40mph, the speedometer goes nuts and there's a loud squeal under the hood. Tach is fine. Noise slows down when I slow down, regardless of RPMs. Automatic tranny shifts fine. When I get down to 5mph, the noise stops and doesn't start until I go somewhere over 30. Noise started after I hit a pothole, which may or may not be important. Other detail is the Speedometer, which bounces around for a few minutes and then goes all the way to the right of the gauge and stays there until I slow down to a stop. Any ideas?? Drive belts are new and seem tight enough. Thanks guys.

Just had them done recently. And the real puzzler for me in this equation is that the spedometer goes to the max (120) when the noise happens, although the speed and rpms stay the same. So something is making that thing go whacky.

My wife's car is an 97 Impreza L, 2.2L car. I like it. She hit a pothole yesterday and right after that began a loud intermittant squealing. Not like a bad belt that is high pitched but a bit deeper and meaner, but not deep like an engine grind or growl. So when it comes on and I drive, if I put it into neutral and hit the gas, the noise stays the same. However, when I coast to a stop it also slows down and stops making noise when I come to a stop. Sometimes it takes some time for the noise to come back. Seems like it's under the hood on the driver's side, but of course when the noise dissapears upon stoping, one can't open the hood and figure out where it's coming from.I noticed that when I test drove it today to get clues, that the spedometer went to the max 120, but the tach did not change. I think that rules out the loose alternato bolt?

I have an 89 GL wagon, 1.8 non turbo mpfi. Had an issue where the car conked out on me at wierd times and changed the distributor and fuel injectors and everything was ok. Then a year later same thing and I thought no way, I just changed those so I tried everything else to no avail and the code was showing fuel injector failure, so I changed that and still had problems. So then I changed the distributor and everything worked just fine.....for another year. So the other day is was raining like a banshee, I am on the freeway and the car starts jerking and dying. For sure felt like loss of power and not fuel. I pull over, crank the engine and nothing. 20 minutes later after opening the hood and noticing everything looks normal, the car starts. I drive it a half mile and the same thing happens. Again, 20 minutes later the car starts and dies in a mile. Again, it's jerky, I crank it when it loses power, starts, dies, and I coast it to the side of the road. Yes, I have a new cap. rotor, plugs and wires. All three distributors are from different manufacturers. 1st was OEM. Help before I lose my mind! Oh, the car started the fourth time and took me home three miles with no problems.

It's fuel injected.

Yeah, had that problem already and replaced the distributor last year. Thought along those line and tested for spark with a buddy the other day (was good) and engine started when I rattled the fuel filter in the engine compartment, which I then replaced and thought I fixed the issue. Now the car dies when I am on the road alone, so any tips for testing spark by yourself? Because the car is only dead for five minutes.

I have an 89 GL non-turbo 4WD wagon. I replaced the distributor and wires last year after having a mysterious problem. Now I have another. When driving, my car dies on me....the check engine light goes on and the engine dies. I pull over and after about four minutes I can start the car again. Fuel pump? I have spark, and replaced both the fuel filter under the car and the one in the engine compartment. Am I on the right track> ?

I just test drove an 86 GL-10 Turbo wagon with the push button 4WD. I noticed I could not shift into first gear, but the transmission seems otherwise fine. Once I got home, I wondered if you can only get into first gear if the red 4WD button is pressed? Or is the transmission messed up? \ Any thoughts would be appreciated. And what's up with the digital dashboard? Kinda goofy if you ask me.

Wow. Thought I would show somebody these. I was looking for a loyale on craigslist but had to show someone this deal. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/189266778.html

Does it matter if I replace my fuel injected 89GL with either the nippondenso or the hitachi distributor?? I wouldn't think so. The Hitachi is $130 and the nippondenso is $240. I am pretty sure I have the nipponsenso in there already.

I have had two wierd situations with my 89 GL 4WD Wagon that my mechanic doesn't understand. Guys, any help diagnosing would be appreciated! Beased on a prior posting, I went to a junkyard and replaced the ignitor and coil but have the SAME PROBLEM. Here's what it is: My car stranded me on the highway the other day. The engine died, I started it and it ran for 3 minutes, died again not to be started again. I could crank the engine and the battery was just fine (so I could play music waiting for the tow-truck). Dropped it off at the mechanics and the next day he started it fine. He ran the car for three hours and all seemed fine. I drove it around town, 3-5 miles at a time no problem. But today I get on the freeway and drive 25 miles. I got out of the car at the bank and when I returned the car wouldn't start. I tried it for an hour, got towed and when I arrived into the shop 45 minutes later on the towtruck, my mechanic started the car up just fine. What is going on with this car?? Ideas?? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What does the ignitor look like? Neither my "how to keep your soobie alive" nor the haynes manual actually have something called the "ignitor". Is it actually mounted to the coil itself or is it something that leads to the coil? And thanks for the local parts tip (you live in texas and know the tacoma,wa subaru parts deals....?!?)

I am going to my local soobie junkyard to pick up a replacement breakerless distributor. Sounds like the easiest thing to do! Thanks! I am not sure if I have a hitachi or nippondenso distributor (my cap on this 89 GL is extra "spikey" compared to the one on my 85). I figure 88 and later I could use either type, right.... Does it really matter which breakerless one I replace it with? Logic says "no", but you know what sometimes happens when logic and subarus meet............

Thanks all. Seems like consensus is the ignitor. If that is the case and if in 89 GLs it is under the distributor, does that mean I can find it in any EA82 89 and later BUT NOT before 89?? And yes, my 89 is fuel injected.

I have had two wierd situations with my 89 GL 4WD Wagon that my mechanic doesn't understand. Guys, any help diagnosing would be appreciated! My car stranded me on the highway the other day. The engine died, I started it and it ran for 3 minutes, died again not to be started again. I could crank the engine and the battery was just fine (so I could play music waiting for the tow-truck). Dropped it off at the mechanics and the next day he started it fine. He ran the car for three hours and all seemed fine. I drove it around town, 3-5 miles at a time no problem. But today I get on the freeway and drive 25 miles. I got out of the car at the bank and when I returned the car wouldn't start. I tried it for an hour, got towed and when I arrived into the shop 45 minutes later on the towtruck, my mechanic started the car up just fine. What is going on with this car?? Ideas?? Oxygen sensor, fuel pump going out? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got off the highway today and my 85 GL Wagon continued to rev real high even with my foot off the gas, like 5000RPM. I am guessing it's some cable from the gas pedal...... to the carb ??

How difficult is it to replace a tape deck or CD player? I would like to swap the tape deck in one EA82 with the CD player in another. The CD player has a pre-out. The tape deck does not. Both have those plastic after market covers surrounding the deck face. Is it a few easy wires? Thanks.

Thank you all so much! It was an easy fix

My 85 has a wierd problem. I have no idea how this is happening but all of my heater is blowing into the cab in one manner only...through the vents on the dash. If I push defrost, no go...even though I can hear the button click and see that defrost is selected no air is going to the windshield. If I push heat, nothing goes to the floor. It is all coming out as if the bilevel option were selected. What could be the problem?? I had torn my dash apart on my 85 some time back and didn't quite get all the connections right as the empty light hasn't worked, but that wasn't worth me pulling the dash apart. Now this was in the summer...have I used the heater since then??....I don't think so. But somehow I don't think that this is an electrical issue, is it?

I am assuming that Soobies have metric hoses because the ASE ones I get at my local auto parts stores are ASE and are a little off. If I am right about this metric hose thing, does anyone have advice where to get some hose online or in the NW?

Thanks. I had it bookmarked to this spot on USMB, where if you follow the link to the marketplace, it is bad. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/buystuff.html

I jammed a tree in my car a few years back and tore the head liner up on my grey 85GL wagon. I was looking for the "marketplace" but it looks like it is gone. Anyone have one....email my account. thanks. And what happened to the usmb marketplace? Ruined by bad kids...?

you can get one on sale at harborfreight.com for $149.00. Wait for the sale. Otherwise you pay $200.