erikvr

I was replacing my PCV Valve on myu 85 and noticed that the tiny hose just to the right (pass side) of it is broken. It goes from the engine (manifold?) to a T-connector where it meets up with other hoses. I am going to replace it but was wondering what it is

My rear window is not shooting out fluid even though the rear resevoir is full and I can hear the little pump making its noise. Not sure what the issue could be, and if it is the pump, where is it located?

I drove mine with a bad CV for another 15,00 miles until the clunking got REAL bad.

Here's what I used. I only put a little in (to go from low to high on the dipstick). http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=22 I don't think this is dextron compatible. Does this small amount mean I need to change the reservior. If so, what's the easiest way to empty it.

Does it matter what kind of power steering fluid I use on my 89GL? I don't think so but put some higher end type in and then noticed that the cap said to use something like ATF Decron. I just put some of that other stuff in.......

I have a coolant leak just underneath the carb of my 85GL right above the pcv valve. It looks like it is coming from the small golden metal tubes running from left to right...is that right? I have so many hoses down there it is hard to figure out where they originate. Advice would be appreciated on these suckers.

Ok, so I did what I should have done in the first place and I took out the spare tire and found the leak. Right under the PCV Valve is a tiny golden metal hose (there are two) and it is leaking from there? What the heck am I looking at........... I thought heater hoses were rubber and thumb sized.

I still have the original engine on my 85 without any rebuild. See below for current miles. These guys here with 300k plus miles have all those nips and tucks like Elizabeth Taylor.

I have a major coolant leak. And I am not sure where it is from. No, it's not the hoses, nor is it the radiator itself. I refilled my near empty tank and looked under the car and saw..........the leak is hitting the floor from behind the oil pan? Is this a water pump problem (which was replaced not long ago by a shop) or something else. When I say major coolant leak, it leaks about 8oz in 8 seconds. Thanks guys

they crack down the middle. Little crack but enough to leak like a son of a gun. Today, I got home in time to see a bucket of steam under the hood. Haven't examined it yet as it is dark outside, but those hoses are new.

In the past six months, I have gone through 2 radiators on my 85 GL. Make that 3 radiators as of today. Any ideas what is up??? The fan seems to work fine, which is the only other problem I can think of that would cause this problem.

He's right. Any moron (including me) can change seals and timing belts with that book. Hell, I even suck at sports and I can do it.

Overheating is a big issue on these cars. And so are the oil leaks! Best bet to control temp is to swap out the thermostat with an OEM thermostat. They keep the car running *as cool as possible*.

Miles fox website is moved to http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/ I wrote him and the first site he used went bye-bye

Well, we have the same 85 car models, so............. One of those baby-faced engines with 100k? I dunno...but my 265k engine gets 26mpg still, and that's with one so-so valve. I just went to the Aaron's website and saw that they have 90 day warranties on the engines! Oh yeah!! Before you go, test out your vacuum motor inside your air cleaner housing (you know, suck on the hose to see if that white flap comes up). Mine was broken and by replacing it I went from 18 to 26mpg overnight. And been there for a year. And how do you replace it. Not by calling the dealership and forking out a hundred bucks! Aarons should have and entire air cleaner housing with a working vacuum motor for $20. So while you're there to get an engine, pick one up if you need. Keep your old housing to salvage the temp sensor (if it is working,,,,but you need a working engine to test it!) Aarons auto wrecking OWNER: tom Keyes 10432 15th Ave SW Seattle WA 98146 www.aaronsauto.com 800-541-7271

I know then you start to blow smoke out the back to check and clean the pcv valve. Anything else get plugged up that needs to be cleaned out to fix the problem.

then there's the seal to seal the seals

Call Aarons auto wrecking in Seattle. All Subie junkyard.

Well, these engines are prone to leaking and that is why people here swear by replacing them each and every time you have to do the work to get to the timing belts. Nothing is a bigger pisser than having them leak and you have to get into change the seal. As for their logic...??? Just hope you don't get a leak there in the next 60k miles 'cause you'll have to go back in. And we're talking about the cam "O" rings (not cam seal!) and the front crank seal (the cam seal is in a differnt area and should only be done if it is leaking). And think about what the mechanic is saying...if he changes those seals and makes them like new, it will cause..........a problem???? huh??? Those seals will cost you a few bucks each, minor labor, and are worth changing. As for the trannie question, I'll leave that to others. But I would say that if I were you (and had a backup car) I would just drive that puppy until the timing belts go. Then tow it to the shop. What if you have another year of life or more in those belts? They can surprise you! Plus you can save your cash to figure out the tranny question. Could be easy (I had a honda that had the same issue and it was the little governor causing the proble...cheap!!!). But I don't have an AT subaru, just 5 speeds so don't ask me. And really get that book I talked about in my prior post. That hippie guy who wrote the 60s bible on do it yourself VW wagon repair wrote this one before he died. If you can start a car, he will teach you how to do your repairs, one step at a time. It's like a big brother there teaching you tips............

If you are going to change the timing belts, do yourself a favor while you (or mechanic) are in there and get the related things done. This way you only pay for the major labor to get there only once. OIL SEALS: Have the mechanic change the front oil seal and the two cam O rings. They are right there and this only takes a little time. These cars are famous for leaking oil, so change these seals every time you change your belts. It's cheap, easy and you are there anyway. TIMING BELTS: People on this site swear that the timing belts you get from the dealership can last up to 100k miles (versus under 50-60k for OEM). ALSO, fyi....the nice thing about subies is that you can drive your car until you break a timing belt with no worries. It doesn't ruin the engine, just leaves you stranded. WATER PUMP: As a preventative measure, I would also pony up $50 plus a tad bit of labor for a new (not rebuilt) water pump. If you get near the 100k miles out of those factory belts, your water pump will no doubt fail before then and you will be paying all that labor all over again.

Any ideas on ways to get that EA82 out without any hoist. Can two people lift it out just fine or are there any tricks?

The out of print How to Keep your Subaru Alive book has a nice step by step engine removal process, with handy tips on how to keep all of those hoses and bolts nice and organized. The book only goes to 1988, but is good for all EA82s. Try a search on Amazon. I had to pay some big bucks for mine, but man.......it is the best repair book out there. Tons of tips, tricks and illustrations.

Hmmmmmmmm, don't the rocker arms keep the rockers in place? I think I am missing something..............So, where would I put the grease? And last but not least, any tips on making that goopy gasket tight the first time? Thanks for the help!

I have some leaky gaskets on my ea82. The oil pan gasket and the valve cover gasket was easy. I have a leak from another gasket that I hope is not the head gasket, but you tell me. Under the car on the passenger side looking up at the engine I see the valve cover gasket leak. Then the next gasket over (left of the valve cover gasket looking up) is leaking too.

Ok, so I took both cars (GL Wagons) down the street and my good car took the bumps in the road stiffly...I felt them but everything seemed normal. My car in question with those new struts/shocks hit these bumps in pavement and I bounced up and down much more, and even when I drove on a less bump ridden paved road, I felt like the car was still bouncing up and down as I am driving. Does that help??