yegoshin

you are right, it needs to be connecting ether a ground to the ECU or a +5V, my guess would be a ground. but basically the reed switch just interupts the circuit displaying a square ware between 0 and 5 when the car is moving.

where in Australia are you again? my mom is going next weekend and could possible bring you an extra speedo with the sensor and all. are you interested? She is traveling to Melbourne

if the wiring from the 2002 imp harness is different from the earlier age one then it will not work. Your best best as said before is to take a manifold/ECU/wiring off a pre imob impreza

I don't have the manual in front of me but this I know. If you measure the resistance with a MM it will fluctuate between 0 and some number. The quicker you drive the higher fluctuation frequency you will see. Thus I belive that the sensor wires need to be connected like this: A -> ECU B -> ground OR 5volts depending on what the ECU wants.

well its a D/R non turbo (the regular axles from my brat fit and as far as I know its not modified). I tried ohm metering it while shifting but still can't seem to get anywhere. I really would like to wire it in with the rest of my harness instead of later on top of it.

Ok since we are ALL on this here topic. could someone please tell me what is the pinout on the 2 connectors (a white one with 6 wires and a black one with 2 wires) from the EA82 transmission? Pretty please with sugar on top? Oh and I have seen http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1164047204042305049ntcJbF I need to know which wire is which because silly me put the tranny in and cant see the sensors.

they *should*, I doubt that the temp sensor is drawing much current but just double check if you can. Put an ammeter between the gage and the sensor to check the current. Multiply the current by current by the resistor value and you should get the Power that resistor needs to dessipate. That value should be stated on the RadioShack resistors.

this is what you want to do:

Ok here we go: To make the EJ temp sensor work almost in the EA guage you need to do the following: hook up a 275 Ohm resistor with one lead going to Ground and the other lead going to the wire from the Temp sender to the guage. This will do the following to your Temp Scale: (you can view there "excell" file here http://dima.brandtshaft.com/Subaru/SubaruTemp.htm) A little EE here for those that are interested: R_total=1 / ( (1/R_temp_sender) + (1/R_extra_resistor)) so when we plug in the 2 EJ temp sender values and the value of the extra resistor we get the values that the gauge would be reading. Looking at the graph those values make a line that almost perfectly matches the EA temp sender line. I belive this will work but haven't tried it yet. If someone does try let me know. This is the way I am going to go with my swap as its much EASIER then tapping the engine or welding something into the rad/hose.

Yes I am aware of that, you have 2 options there. The red part of your statement is actually partly incorrect I belive. 1) design an actual circuit that will make those 2 graph lines match 2) Live with it and know that your guage will actually be MORE sencetive on the HOT side and LESS on the cold site. EDIT: I have now applied the resistance formula and it seems that the graphs will line up practically perfectly see below

EASY. To lower a resistance all you have to do is wire in a second resistor in PARALLEL (mean that the second resistor has leads going to temp gauge wire and ground). This will drop the overall resistance in as seen by the guage. formula for calculating it is here: http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm I am too lazy to calculate right now, maybe in a bit if you ask nicely

Don't use a turbo 5 speed unless you want to mess around with axle splines. They are different then your 86 brat's (23 and 25 but search to confirm). You will need to modify the mounts off your 4 Speed and put them onto the 5 speed. Also the driveshaft will ether have to get elongated or you need a 2 piece one from the 5 speed car. You also need all the shifter linkages from teh donor car.

care to mention those 10 wires here? I am just trying to see if I got my harness right. So far I got: Radiator Relay VSS Fuel Pump Power to Fuel Pump/Main Relay Neutral Position Switch Check Engine Light Starter Wire to the ECU Ignition Wire to the ECU Test Mode Connector(? technically already on the donor by itself) Tach Signal anything I am leaving out?

So I decided to start a blog if you will pretaining to my convertion. I can post pictures of most things just ask away. I am a the point of wiring this thing up so, if anyone out there has an FSM Wiring diagram for an '85 BRAT (or anything close to it) I would be eternaly greatfull to you. Here is a picture of my current wiring harness (not including the EJ one yet): I am going to take apart the harness and trash all the stuff I don't need. I know some people would call it exessive. I understand but I would like this to be a clean install. I would like to achive a state where all the wiper/lights/etc are kind of thier own separate harness and if in the future I want to drop in another EJ engine all I would have to do it put the old EJ wires out and drop the new wires in.

BTW just tested the EA guage cluster its DOES have a 2 wire connector coming out which is a reed switch! Thus I will be wiring the VSS to that connector! I am pretty excited that worked out.

Perhaps you have a picture of such arrangement? Maybe I can even go to the junkyard and pick up the tray and weld it in or something.

So I have a few quick questions here, hopefully someone can help me out: 1) Here is a picture of the engine bay: In the upper right hand corner there are 2 vacum switches/solenoids, am I correct to assume that those are not needed and that they can safely be removed? 2) Does ANYONE have a digital version of the FSM-Wiring diagrams that would work (read be close enough) to a '85 BRAT? Pretty please with sugar on top? I have the Haynes manual but it doesnt tell which wire goes thorugh which connector and its really annoying. 3) I am trying to figure out the Intake/Battery issue in the EA81. As you know they both want the same space. Some people modified the intake pipe, others have relocated the battery. I am wondering if there is an easy way to put the battery on the driver side here:

hang in there mate! I am going through the same "problems". Like many said previously there are only a few things you need, many you don't. I will post a picture of what I have so far. Take it with a grain of salt because I haven't put it in the car to see if it works or not but here it is (picture is HUGE 4MB didn't want to lose detail) http://dima.brandtshaft.com/Subaru/IMG_9448.JPG

ok I put some numbers in the second pictures now (hit F5 to reload if its doesnt change for you). I figure this 1 is the vapor hose 2 is the fuel supply hose 3 is the fuel return hose is that right?

Ok so I am trying to figure out the fuel line routing and am a bit lost. Here are a couple of pictures of what I am talking about: and So in the 1st picture on the right side of the intake manifold there are 3 pipes that need to be hooked up. I understand that 1 of them is (from the carcoal canister thats not in the picture but would be in the lower left corner) the vapor pipe that goes to the fuel tank and that is in the second picture that black hose just above the brake fluid reservoir cap. But I am a bit lost as to how hook up the other 2 pipes. One of them is the fuel line from the pump the other seems to be going back to the tank and should have a pressure regulator hooked up is the fuel filter looking thingy in the second picture the pressure regulator? I am lost so if someone could spell it out for me that would be great!

hmmm..... I can take a photo, brb. EDIT: It doesnt fit

I just made this work, I seems there are several different shifter linkages/mount to the tranny etc... I just mixed and matched, it now looks like it will clear everything. Going to drill the rear mount later tonight and torque everything up. I still need to go find a welder to use for the 4WD linkage extention.

I am putting one into a Brat as we speak. I have seem to run into some issues: 1) 4WD shifter lever needs to be elongated because otherwise the lever will not sit flat when in 2WD mode. 2) I am about to go check this again but my shifting linkage seems to only shift into 1st 3rd and 5th. The other gears it hits itself. BTW there was a picture somewhere here where all the connectors went to but I seem to have lost it so if anyone finds it and posts it here again it would be sweet!

now that you have asked, that kinda how the antilag system works on the new prodrive p2.

Anyone try the reverse? You know cutting and adding enough to say add another set of wheels and make it a 6X6?