dogman1955

:DI just did a 1998 2.5dohc 2 weeks ago belt and valve job with perfect results.Even though the Haynes manual which was very helpful gave step by step diagram of the process,i deviated a little from their instructions. I lined up all 4cams double notches on intake at 6 o clock,double notches on exhaust 12 o clock both sides, I lined my belt up on crank-shaft first used a small pair of needle-nosed vice grips to hold the belt on the crank gear then routed the belt over the passenger-side cams came across the bottom side towards the waterpump & tensioner , then around driver-side exhaust and last onto driver-side intake which I turned very slightly by hand counter-clockwise as I slipped the belt on, I had to do the whole process 4 times before I got it lined up perfectly and then I almost forgot to pull the tensioner pin before removing the vice grips from the crank. I was able to do this alone and i'm handicapped & on oxygen. I would recommend taking your time & make sure all the cams are lined up perfectly,even if you have to do it a few extra times. When you are done the 3 lines on the belt should line up with the crankshaft and the cams.Then when you rotate the engine by hand to make sure your not binding up you will need to forget about the 3 lines on the timing belt as they won't line up again for maybe 100 full engine rotations. Your cams should line back up every 2 or 4 times you completely rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.If the cams line back up every 2-4 rotations your installation will be a success. Good luck I hope this is helpful!

I have a 1998 legacy outback that has a moody driver side front power window lift it goes all the way up & down but goes 3 or 4 inches stops I press it again goes 3or 4 inches stops again. Any thoughts on what to be suspicious of switch or motor?

:DThanks for the response, I will double check them with a feeler gauge. I've never dealt with bucket lifters until now all my experience is with diesel semi trucks and American hot rods.

I did ask the guy at the machine shop if they shim them and he said yes, but he kinda acted strange when I asked. They did replace a few valves & I noticed the shims all had sharpie written numbers on them for intake & exhaust.

:)I'm new to Subaru's so I have what may be a dumb ? I took my heads to a machine shop & had them rebuilt. Should I likely or unlikely have to change shims on the bucket lifters? I assume the machine shop should have measured & shimed them? Any and and all opinions are appreciated.

:)I'm doing a valve job on a 1998 legacy ej 25dohc.I'm using Fel-pro head gaskets which have a blue coating on one side , does the blue side contact the head or the block? Should I use Indian head shellac? If I use Indian head should I coat both sides of the gasket? Any and all advice will be treasured.

The BumbleBeast is SWEET!!!Very impressive.

:D Thank you very much for the help Matt. It definitely will solve all of my current Subie issues!!! Dogman

:DHi, I'm a newbie to Subaru's and this web site.Can anyone tell me without being complicated what the the cam caps should be torqued to? My book says 70-90 inch lb,which is about 7.49 ft.lb doesn't sound right to me.I'm doing a head job with engine in car. Also my car has an automatic tranny ,can I turn the crankshaft to line up all the cam sprockets with the tranny in park or does it have to be in neutral? Any and all comments would be appreciated. Thanks, dogman1955