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Everything posted by outback_97
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Mtsmiths: My gas gauge is not accurate (reads too low always), but my trip odo always gets reset... and it says I have over 3/4 tank. Agreed on the top 1/2 of the tank idea. Grew up in rural northern MN... you don't want to run out of gas there in the winter... probably like Whitefish, MT But I suppose it wouldn't hurt to run some Isopropanol through the tank, although I stick to good quality gas as a rule. The SeaFoam intrigues me, I've read about that here, might be worth a try. Just had the oil changed very recently. The only other thing I can think of is: The last time the car had been started before this incident, it was only run very briefly to move it in the driveway (by my wife) and wouldn't have gotten warmed up at all. Still don't see how that would have caused it, as although I try to avoid doing this (starting the car just to move it 20 yards) we've had to do it before as we have a single lane driveway. Steve
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Summary: Car required way more cranking to start, had quite loud tapping sound which eventually went away. Hello, just wanted to run this past the folks here. My '97 Legacy OB (4EAT) didn't want to start this morning, crank crank crank crank crank crank... nothing. Tried that again, nothing. Third try with all accessories shut off.. crank crank.. finally turned over and sputtered to life, running very rough at first, I gave it some gas, and eventually the idle smoothed out after warming up a bit. What was weird was that after it finally started, there was a pronounced knocking or loud ticking sound, much louder than I've ever heard. It's always had a slight tick when cold, primarily under load, that I assume is "piston slap", which disappears as it warms up. But this was a lot louder, my wife even heard it inside the house (through an open window) 'cause she noticed I was having trouble starting the car. Once car was warmed up, it drove fine, idled fine, etc. Started it a few hours later, and it started right up as it always has. Any reason why the hard start would cause an acute severe case of the piston slap? I'm assuming the hard start may indicate a problem with the starter or solenoid, we'll keep an eye on that. No CEL's. Car had sat for 4 days, nothing unusual. New battery. No previous problem resembling this, seems to work fine now, moderate temperatures (low 50's), normal humidity, no other odd things I can think of to comment on. Steve
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Just did this on my lunch break. The only thing I would add to what has already been said is that after you remove the grill, remove the three screws (two on top, on on the side) you need to pull the headlight assembly straight towards you (towards the front of the car). Don't try to move it sideways or swing it outward. I had to pull pretty hard (enough to rock the car forward a bit), then it popped out. I bought two bulbs 'cause if I didn't I knew the other side's bulb would burn out within 10 miles FWIW the procedure is also described in the manual, although not everyone has one of those available. Steve
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No, that's not necessary, I was just impressed by the price, sounds like a good deal. Any trouble with insurance coverage? Second to the Nasioc idea, there is so much info there on WRX's it's just silly. And yes you will get people knocking the automatics there too Everyone has an opinion I guess. Steve (2 4EAT subies in my driveway)
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Yes, this thread is (was?) really old. But I wanted to clarify for the next person that does a search like I just did, so they have correct information. I have a '97 Legacy OB and my left front turn signal bulb just stopped working. In my Haynes manual it shows the turn signal assembly separate from the headlight assembly, and that you just pull the turn signal assembly and replace the bulb. Wrong. It's all one piece on my car. So, 1997 Legacy Outbacks (or at least mine) have one assembly for the headlight and turn signal. You gotta pull the whole thing to replace the turn signal. Based on my car, it wasn't until '98 that they made the change to a two piece assembly. Unless it was a running change in the '97 MY? Steve
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I don't think it would fit. 3.3 = SVX engine 3.0 = new 6 cyl. You're thinking of the 3.0 in the second gen outbacks (third gen legacies)... that one *might* fit, but I don't think the SVX engine would fit... too big. There's a guy on Nasioc that has a 3.0 in a mid 90's Impreza... they actually have a lot of stuff written up on that install, and it took a whole lotta work. Barely fit in there. Here's the FAQ about the swap, interesting stuff: http://linaracing.com/impreza-h6-conversion-faq.cfm Steve
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http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html Some links and a summary of the differences between the Phase 1 and Phase 2 HG issues. Everything I have read on the issue, and specific advice from a SOA rep. suggests that the "stop-leak" stuff won't help you, sorry. Internal leak vs. external weeping coolant. Steve
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I'll bet a Phase 1 headgasket that sregor13 was concerned about seeing only two wheels on the ground in tow, which is a big problem on AWD subies. Not a problem on your FWD one though, so that's my guess at the "what?" Zeky: Thanks for the well documented follow up, it's nice to have resolution and lots of threads just kinda trail off. Steve
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http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html This link may have information helpful to you. If it happened to me, I'd probably get the HG's fixed, as The Dude mentioned, although it seems that many people that have had this done at the dealership have paid >1200. I'd most likely have the work done at an indy shop that had done them before. Steve
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You have to remove the door panel, there's no removeable grill. Check this out: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61&& Hopefully that helps... it shows you how to install the tweeter kit, but also covers removing the door panel to get at the wiring. Steve edit: d'oh... you have to register to view the link above. Of course scoobymods.com is an excellent site, you should check it out. OK, here's the procedure for an Impreza... it's similar, except for the door handle http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/mods/
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37 Nasioc should be able to help you out. You could also try the conversions area on Nasioc: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=87 Make sure you figure out the engine model code first before you post there... it's definitely not an EJ20DET (that sounds like a Nissanaru crossbreed) and Nasioc is not as forgiving to n00bs. You could just say it's a JDM EJ20T (I think that's correct to say). Lots of good technical info there, and the search function will get you some good info, mixed with some noise of course. Steve
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Geogolf: Did you post this on nasioc asking about steam coming from your car? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739346 Do you think your headgaskets might be leaking? As mentioned by others, the stop-leak stuff won't help much on an internal leak, on the other hand the internal HG leak which sometimes affects Phase 1 2.5l's usually doesn't cause steam. There's some links to headgasket information here: http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html Steve
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Called the local Uhaul and they have hitches (which they can order in) for $130, so again about the same price... but no shipping fee. Plus, the wiring is a little cheaper too... $17 as opposed to $35 or so. I don't want to go cheap on a part that could be dangerous if it fails, but I would think the Uhaul product would be decent, maybe even made by one of the other manufacturers already listed. I asked which company makes the hitches for them... the kid at the store said Uhaul does, in Arizona. That seems unlikely, but maybe they do make their own. Steve
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http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?category=hitch&year=1997&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&t1=&h=e&style=Outback+Wagon&ob= Any comments from experienced board members who have towed re: which of these two hitches shown via the link (Draw-Tite vs. Hidden Hitch) is better, and why? Any difference at all? They are very similar in price and design just looking at the small photos, but the Draw-Tite looks a bit beefier, it's hard to tell. If I can't find a good deal on a used hitch for my OB (I posted in the classifieds here, plus Nasioc, plus SLC craigslist) then I think I'll just get a new one from the place linked above. Thanks for any info or feedback you might have regarding these hitches or the vendor. Steve edit: I called etrailer re: the yellow stars next to the name of the mfg on their website search results, that's just the popularity of the product. So apparently they've sold more of the Draw-Tite.