ron2368

there are 2 that are between the piston and the pad, both clip to the pad. the rusted ones contact the pad, the ones that contact the piston are stainless looking and are ok.

I have a 06 legacy and replaced the pads today. Both inside black shims were rusting, they have a plastic coating over them and it was coming up in the centers. I cleaned them up and put the new pads on, I will have to replace them, should have got new ones with the pads. How urgent is it to replace them??, they dont seem like they will rust away anytime soon. thanks

thank you all, one more thing If I want to rotate tires I would need to have both tires off the ground to make life easy, since I have done it the very hard way already. Where can I place stand, I figure in the rear but where??

I am just being careful years ago I took the bolt out of a caliper on my 92 legacy and lifted it, the pads just fell out on the ground, I guess I put them back ok. Actually this car ( the 06) is gonig to the dealer for leaking rear diff, poor shifting trans and recently burning oil smell at engine ( all I can tell is there are occasional drips on the oil pan). Just happy I have ext warranty:banana:

Is the lock pin the bottom bolt that I remove to lift up the caliper to expose the pads? If I loosen the bleed to release the piston is there possibility of getting air in the line? I have always avoided that bleed valve, scares me. Does my car have any shims? I see one pad has a metal end piece that looks like a clip, I guess I will see where that goes when I take it out.

I have been looking for some info on doing this job myself. Its been many years since I have done this and wanted to know if there are any special things to know. I am ok up to the taking the bottom caliper bolt out. Do the pads just drop out or are they clipped in, any cleaner or lube needed. Is there a simple step by step somewhere? thank you

It was a 2 year old left drive shaft unit that went bad.

I had scraping noise and it was the rear caliper. Thanks about the T stat. I put a new radiator in last summer but was too lazy to relpace the stat, thats why I already have it:rolleyes:

My daughter tells me the temp gauge has not shot up, but I checked the top hose was really hot and the bottom was air temp. Never was replaced. I had got a thermostat last year and it came with a rubber ring, not with the flat gasket I have always seen. If this is the correct gasket , do I need a sealer? thanks

It has a bit over 40k. I am going to give the dealer a try , see how that goes. The dealer has been very quick to do warranty work for any problems. I had a little plastic silver tab on a vent missing, they replaced the whole upper console.

This car has had for a few months now a few noticeable problems , most not very consistent. I have checked the atf and it looks ok, I had it changed about 15k ago. The most frequent thing is if I back up then shift to D it takes a few seconds before I can feel the gear catch. If I take a corner, when I step on the gas I can feel the trans clunk into gear, this happens about 25% of turns. Its under an extd warranty and I am going to bring it into the dealer but I always expect them to say it didnt do a thing when they tested it. Any advice appreciated.

Only side to side motion, I had my wife do it and I looked unfer and it looked like the area where the axle boot met the wheel looked like it had some play, the ball joint was solid.

These are my 2 observations after checking the car today. Car brakes ok. If I get it to 35 mph where the max shake is and shift to neutral it seems to improve( but I am also taking foot off gas). I thought trans but trans usually slips , this trans shifts great. I jacked up each front and the passenger side has definite play when I grab the front and rear of tire and wiggle it. There seems to be a slight outer edge tire tread wear . I am not really sure what it is:confused:

I changed the o2 sensor saturday and drove the car twice , it was fine. I cant tell about the axles and the mounts are orig, but when I rev the engine hard it is stable.

It seems to gradually increase to 25-30 then decrease above that

Tires have 3-4 k on them I checked them and all seemed solid, never had to fill any.

its FWD. AT when I start forward there is a shake in the car, its fairly wavelike and peaks at 25 mph then over 40 goes away as far as I can tell, I was at 60 and didnt notice it. The engine is very smooth , no misses, the trans shifts nicely. It reminds me of my bad axle, but the axle was much less a shake, but I had both front replaced about 7k miles ago. I reved the car and the engine is stable. I looked at the suspension and visually nothing, I shook the tires hard and there is no give at all. any ideas? I have no clue. Only work I have done was put in a new o2 sensor a week ago Only strange thing there is a canister with 2 hoses, its under the battery/washer res. the hose is all greasy, 1 hose goes to the radiator inlet for the trans cooler. Could this be the problem? What is it? thank you

I called the dealer and they want 160 plus tax prepaid, I see much cheaper alternatives online, is this dealer item worth it?

Car has 127k. The wires are relatively new and I did put in a new PCV. The car runs fine. Is the o2 sensor in the engine or just above the converter? If I can replace it myself, will try. Where is the best place to buy a replacement? online or pep boys type store?

I have a 92 fwd AT, I have done the plugs , filter cleaned, checked vac hoses pcv and the mpg is still horrible. Have had this car since new and never got such poor mileage. CEL not on . any ideas? Should I sent to a mechanic to check out?

It is definitely the base of the rank area, the hose and valve are clean. Pep and advanced both want 125. What about the poor mpg could that be an o2 sensor? I may get rid of the car by sept so I want to fix it but keep costs low. thank you

First off the gas mileage is terrible, about 21-22 mpg city for a fwd car is bad. It runs as usual nothing wrong , no cel on. The radiator is leaking, a slow drip only when hot. It is coming from the base, passenger side. I thought it was the drain valve but it is well below that. Can this be fixed or new RAD time?? Should I buy one at pep boys ? Should I replace the thermostat if I have to replace the rad.?? the thermostat was never replaced so its old. Thank you for your assistance.

If I lock the car from the inside lever, I can hardly get the key to turn in the driver door, when the car is unlocked it turns alot better. Usually turning the key in the locked driver door would open all the locks so I am wondering if some electrical part or motor is bad, My haynes manual has no info on this. thank you

When its cold I can hear it make a scraping sound that goes away once the car is very warm. Definitely the speedometer cable , sound is right behind instrument panel. Is there a way to get some lube into it?

I got this car recently and want to change the oil myself but I cant fit under the car. It seems so low I wanted to know if I can drive it up a set of ramps, saw a set at PEP boys? Other than oil and filter , any other tools needed, I looked under it and cant hardly see anything. For the winter should I stick with synthetic? thanks As a side note, even though oil/gas prices have plummeted why is a quart of oil nearly 3 dollars:mad: