ron2368

Last time I took off the nut, the outer part of the bearing popped out easily. This time I could not get it out. I even took off the caliper and rotor, but nothing. It seemed dry but did not look like there was anything I could do so I put it all back together. Guess I need to get a manual!

I have a fwd . A while back I had a rear wheel noise and removed the rear bearing in the process of looking for the problem. The nut I removed to get to the bearing was super tight I had to use a bar to loosen it. I thought these nuts should be tight and then backed off a slight bit. Could someone give me an idea on how tight it should be. Also the bearing did not seem very greasy, should these bearings be cleaned and regreased occasionally or just leave it alone? Thanks

Can the sensor be cleaned / reconditioned? Would you only replace it if there was a code ? Thanks

I had a noisy wheel and narrowed it to bearing or brakes, and it was a bad caliper. Brakes worked so I did not notice any pull. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. It was in the shop today and the caliper was bad. Frozen I suppose. I have had this car since new and this is only the second thing that has ever gone bad , 2 summers ago the starter died , so I have been very fortunate. Just need to get it inspected before the muffler rots out.

Here is where I am at. I figured it was the bearing. When I took off the wheel I could hardly turn the rotor , it turned but was not easy. I finally loosened the nut on the bearing and took it off and the slotted washer. Figured that this would release pressure on the bearing and allow me to turn the rotor easier. BUT the rotor is still just as hard to turn. Do I need to remove the caliper to pop out the bearing? Dont think I can get the caliper off its so tight. Should I even bother now??? How can I release pressure in the caliper to see if that frees the rotor?? That appears to be my next step??? Thanks

I was going to look at the bearing. I bent the little tab on the nut but was unable to unscrew it and I tried with other leverage methods and it would not budge! Seemed like it was welded in place. Thought I would get the bearing out and clean or repack more grease.So much for that plan. When I had the caliper off I would spin the wheel and it was not totally smooth but I got no feel of a bad bearing like grinding sounds. Thank you.

I have a legacy 92 fwd. The rear wheel is making a thumping noise and lots of rear end vibration . Its most noticable at 15-20 mph and about 40. As I slow down the rear vibrates . The other day I pulled off the caliper and put it back on and for that day no problem, maybe just a coincidence since I really did not know what I was doing. The rear bars were all stable not loose. I didnt know how to check the strut but it seemed stable . I dont know what it is but my best guesses were strut, brake and bearings. This am I drove to town and back the noise was really bad. When I got home the whole tire rim and lug nuts were very hot to touch. I pulled the wheel off but I do not know what to do. Could someone please help? Thank you much.

I was going to doctor the rust spot and ask my guy if that would be ok. How can I tell what exhausts from later years would work on my car? Is it thru the body type or engine? I have no clue. Thank you

I did not have good luck using polishing compound. What I did was to use a razor blade and with moderate pressure scrape the yellow plastic off the lens. You can see the shavings are yellow. When done I buffed the lens and saw noticable improvement.

I have a 92 fwd legacy with the original exhaust system , I cant believe its lasted so long. Last year at inspection my guy replaced a gasket but thats all its ever had done. Now I notice about one square inch of rust bubbling on the muffler and its up for inspection in 2 months.It is not a hole , nor is it leaking but I dont know if they will fail it for the rust or if the rust will be a hole very soon. I would be appreciative if anyone has recommendations on which way to go if I do the muffler myself. Subaru or a local parts store? thank you.

I did not notice the noise at all today. The day it started was rainy and I had done 30 minutes of driving when it started . Maybe something was stuck. I looked under each wheel and all looked ok. Oil will be done by end of week. Thank you.

I have a 92 legacy fwd. The rear discs were redone within the last year. The last 2 days I hear and feel a loud vibration from the rear when I brake, its like a harmonic boom-boom sound. I remember something similar about 10 yrs ago and the dealer said that something in the brake needed to be greased. I took the wheel off and there was nothing I could see needed work but then I really had little idea of what I was doing. Any help appreciated. Thank you BTW I also have constant valve rattle, its almost funny the car sounds pitiful. I saw the threads on a knock sensor but where is it and how do I know its bad? Is it cheap , I can buy a new one? thanks again

The tank was at 1/4 but I went and filled it just now and the light went off.....I just hope it stays off. Thank you!!!!

I am leaving for a trip in a few days and the check engine light comes on yesterday( soild, no blink). I took the little plastic filter off thats in the emission line and shot some carb cleaner thru it and the light went away for a day, today its back on. Checked and cleaned the gas cap no change. I really dont know what to do. I took some of the hoses in the diagram off and made sure they were clean,cleaned the pcv valve and checked the small electrical connections that are on the side wall passenger side area. The diagram shows a cannister but I cant find one. Can I still go on vacation with this light on? The car runs fine , have not noticed any changes. Anyone have some ideas on what to try, I have done everything that I can/ what seems obvious to me to check but it has not helped. Thank you to anyone who helps.

I have a 92 legacy and the foam area where I sit is deformed. After sitting on it for 14 years my butt has worn it out:( . Is it an easy job to take out the seat and replace the foam or whatever is there so that I can get some support?? Has anyone done this? Thank you

I checked the gear oil again and it was normal. What I did was replace thise short hoses with 2 longer ones and then ran the hoses into a plastic bottle that I secured in the engine compartment. The car has been used for a week, mostly short drives and the plastic bottle has no sign of ATF. The only thing I can see is that the front hose that is right next to the front edge of the trans housing has a sign that some ATF may have been in it. Maybe that vent takes pressure off the front trans seal, anyone know?

I checked the gear box( the smaller dipstick on the opposite side from the atf stick) and the oil level was ok and there did not seem to be any contamination with ATF. So I still have no clue. I do not know any trans shops and so I will probably make an appointment at the Subaru dealer to get it checked.

I have a 99 with auto transmission. The problem I am having is that trans fluid is coming out of the two top vent hoses. Of course the catalytic converter is right below and so it always has a faint smell of burning oil. I never see any drips on the garage floor, the side of the trans below the hoses has oil on it. In the two weeks since I filled it there is no noticable loss of fluid but I can tell there is some loss just by the continued smell. ATF is not discolored and in great shape. About 2 months ago after a 65mph drive in 95 degree weather there was a large loss of fluid and alot of smoke but since then no similar problems. The fluid and filter was changed a year ago when I purchased the car. Should I go to a trans shop( I am afraid to do that) or try a dealer? Anyone have advice...or a similar problem?? What would be a best next step? thank you

I dont know how similar the 01 drum type are to the 99, for that matter I dont know much about the 99 ones either. I have read a source that says to turn the drums and another that does not unless there is noticable scoring. Are special tools needed or can I do the springs with a pair of channel locks and a screwdriver? Since there is a screw type expander do you need to bleed the rear if you dont mess with the cylinder? Plus since its ABS is that another concern if you do need to bleed them. Anyone with some hints?

I have a 99 with rear drums . The pads are worn and need to be replaced. I have done some work on brakes many years ago but none for the last 10, so I am apprehensive about doing this work myself. Are there any special things to watch out for? Should I do it myself or just send it to my repair man.

I have a 92 and have had a problem about 5 times now in the last month. While driving the engine starts to shake, only way I can describe it was on older cars when the choke got stuck. It happens most times after the car was run and sat off for 30 plus minutes. Then about 5 minutes into driving it would start. If I would go to neutral it did not help and revving the car did not seem to help much, then it would go away. I figured water in gas or dirty injectors so I put some STP cleaner in the gas. Any other ideas for me to try? Thanks

Sorry, no floods not even any heavy rain. The atf was low about a pint. I dont know much more about this problem. Maybe I can get longer hoses and run them into some receptacle so I can see if or how much fluid I am losing.:cornfuzz:

Since the change I have checked the atf and it always was at the proper line. When I looked at the area after the smoking incident I could see a trail of oil residue from below the vents down to the trans area above the converter so I am sure that was the cause. There were 2 drips of trans fluid in the garage below that area also. When I drove home that night( return trip) there was no smoking, also the area under the car is always clean, never any drips, so I am assuming that this never happened before.

I have a 99 Forester, after a 30 minute highway drive with the a/c on I see lots of smoke from the engine compartment . To shorten the story I am very sure it came from 2 little vent hoses on top of the auto transmission . The catalytic converter is just below so it was burning the atf = lots of smoke. I did not notice any shifting problems during the drive. I had the fluid and filter replaced 9 months ago and have not added any atf during that time so it can't be overfilled. Any ideas, other than this time I have never noticed it before. Thank you for any assistance.