ron2368

I have a 92 legacy sedan and have both fan fuses(25a) blow. If I slide up to 3/4 full power the fan will not make a sound then sliding it a tiny bit more the fan will run for 1 second then the fuses blow. Is the switch bad? I have a haynes manual but it does not give any info on the switch or how to get to it. If its bad can I replace it easily, does not look easy to get to or is there a way to bypass it for now? 2nd question, my speedo cable is noisy when the car is cold can I lube it?, does not look easy either, any easy fixes? thank you

I did the test at least 3 times, there is no voltage to the fan. I checked the fan resistor per the manual and it was ok. The wiring diagram shows a bl/red wire that goes to the relay from fan. I can follow it up to a large mass of wires where it looks like it turns left. Yes there are two plastic small boxes right next to eachother one has 2 or 3 wires the other has 5 so I guess I will find out when I get the part. The fan wire is fairly thick but the wires to these boxes is much thinner, hope it does not matter.

I have the wrong part, I liked it since it was 8$ , the correct part is 90. Its r6154 , I am going to check the plug pattern before ordering Later that day> plug pattern was wrong so I ordered part from local subie dealer. They used vin to find part so hopefully it solves my issue.

I still cant find the relay, the part I have is 35767 and is a air conditioning relay. I see other boxes under the dash but they are plastic and the one I have looks like it should be out by the engine, though I still cant locate it there.

I have a new relay, I tested the voltage at the fan clip and there was none.

I looked under the dash for the relay and could not find it, is in engine compt? My manual mentions it but does not say where it is.

I now remember that about 2 years ago the fan had a problem where it would not work when the car first started up but after a few bumps it would work fine. For the last year it was ok every day. When I replaced the old fan 2 weeks ago it was totally dead, I plugged the new one in and it ran fine, so I that the old issue is related to the current problem but I cant be sure. I will have a voltmeter tomorrow, do I test the voltage across the plug? Does it vary with the fan settings? Will also test the resistor, it says to test across the contacts, but which ones? I think there were 4 or 5 of them, just pick one and test the others against it? Thank you for your help, I need it!

The motor I got from the parts guy died after a week, so I am looking to do motor #3 now. I think I have something to test voltage will get back when thats done. thank you

No, if the motor is on a fuse wouldnt that regulate any overvoltage. thank you

I have a 92 legacy, two weeks the heater blower died, it had a noise for the last 5 years, Last week I replaced it with a used unit, that I cleaned up and relubed the the shaft bearing area with some grease it ran great for a week. today that motor is now dead. Is there something that could make this motor go bad, the fuses are ok. Before I spend 80 on a retail motor I thought I would ask. or is it bad luck?

No , I dont have a hose, the side can tap they sell does not look like it will work unless I use the refill upside down which I think is bad. I cant find anything locally on CL.

I was looking at a product Freeze 12 but its listed as a substitute or replacement so I guess mixing it is not good. Usually you would buy a can with the fitting/hose and no one sells both anymore and that makes it more confusing.

I dont think I have ever put any in since new, it still works good but it needs a bump cooler. When I look at the round glass on the ac part it has a slightly foamy look not a clear liquid look. I called a shop and they made it sound very complicated and dangerous plus expensive. If anyone has ideas please, I would appreciate. thank you

The piston was frozen, there was no leak or damage I could see. Since I was able to move it back does that mean it will work properly? Or since it froze is it surely conidered broken?

I put new rear pads on my 92 legacy fwd. The driver side piston was frozen, though there was no damage or noted wear to the brake pads and no leaks. I did manage to use some strong leverage and release the piston so I could finish the install. I assume that that wheel has not been braking for a while since the piston was so locked up, but I have not noticed any change in stopping . Is the caliper broke or since it was frozen will it work properly. I asked one person and they said since it froze it has to be replaced. I was looking at the advanced auto website and they sell loaded and semi loaded and some that say nothing about that, which would I need? thank you

I have no idea about the specifics of testing it . I am going to keep running it and treat it with tlc . I dont drive it regularly but when I drove it home I think it runs fine. Sorry I dont know more but thats why I come here. Wish I could do all this kind of work but its not in my future. many thanks.

Thank you all, the car is my daughters college driver about 20 miles rt . The trans is also slipping a bit so my plan is to drive it till it dies. My guy said it could last a year. I will slowly look for a replacement. It will need new tires but thats about it. I purchased it new and it has about 140 k on it so its got good use. As far as the repair its way beyond my ability both physically and mechanically. Just not realistically a weekend job for me .

Took my 92 legacy 2.2 fwd to the shop, it has an erratic idle at times, if I rev it the idle drops almost like it will stall, but it rarely does. The word was that #1 cylinder is at 70% power, probably leakage around the valves. The head job was quoted at $1100 but not recommended. How long can the car last like this? Also is there anything I can do to delay its demise? thank you

I looked, didnt seem easy at all. Will look again.

thanks, I may put a 1/2 inch hole in the shield below the drain so I can get to it fairly easy. I probably would have to take the shield off to remove a hose.

If I have to remove the shield under the radiator I would rather not fool with the hose / clamp. I can feel the drain area and the plug feels like it would unscrew with a flat tip screwdriver does that seem possible? There is only 3 inches down to the plastic shield so it is hard to get at it from the bottom. thank you

I want to change the coolant. Do I have to take that large plastic skirt off under the engine to get to the drain? When I go in from the top I cant see or feel a drain area, there is a round plastic area that hangs down off the bottom corner, is that where the drain is? Is it opened with a screwdriver. Sorry I just dont see any obvious drain and dont want to start taking things apart without checking with the experts here first. Thank you

I did that a a couple of months ago along with cleaning the pcv, but I will give it another check, thank you. I usually spray carb cleaner in and use a small rag to wipe the area so I can see how dirty it is, is that ok?

It is infrequent, mostly after the car is running 1 or 2 minutes. the idle will just drop instantly when the car is brought to a stop, usually the idle recovers and stays fine, rarely it will stall, but will restart afterwards.. I was thinking of doing plugs / wires, it has a new gas filter about a year ago. Just looking for some ideas to approach this. Thank you

I have a car at 60k and I am wondering if I should have a drain and flush rather than just diluting the dirty fluid . Can a garage do it or only a dealer? There are many good ATFs should I only use subaru( car is out of warranty at 60k). How about these 15$ a quart ones like royal purple?