ron2368

Thanks. I have rear discs and when I have had this noise once before it was handbrake pads. Dont know if it is the same now, sounds the same.

It is a FWD model. Loud scraping noise only making right hand turns around a corner ( not curves), not consistently. Its the rear driver side wheel. I have taken off the tire and the caliper and brake pads are fine. I am thinking it may be the emergency brake area. The emerg brake works ok. I remember this noise in 1994 same wheel, the dealer said it needed grease/ lube. thats all I can remember.

Plugs in the last 9 months , wires -I cant remember that far back.

My 92 legacy would always start right up but lately it will not catch on the first try. Second try always works. I was thinking a new fuel filter first off, but wanted to ask for other ideas. About a month ago I added some injector cleaner, which did not hekp. thank you

What is the oem plug for this car? Since they call for a 30k change is it a platinum or a standard plug. I was going to pull one but I figure I may as well have its replacement ready to go in. Ngk shows an iridium on their site, they dont even show platinum as oem, what is best to buy as a replacement?

I purchased a used legacy and my mechanic gave me a quote of $150 to replace the plugs. First off, at 30k do I need to do this, what kind of plugs are in this car? How long should they last? If I do this, do I need special tools or is there a trick to doing it? It looks like a tight job at the least, there must be an easy way to do this( at least I hope there is). thank you Another ?. The brake fluid looks ok, can I just replace the fluid in the resorvoir or does it need a full drain?

The salesman was complaining they were only going to make $300 so he said they would not include a full 30k service job with the car. Tomorrow I will need to know what service was done , that I will get matching tires, and need some assurance on future repairs , will see if I can get the 5/75k extended warranty at a substantial discount instead of the 1280 they quoted me. Thanks for the advice hopefully now I have a plan, will it work?????

The coopers are brand new so I am assuming they wrer the replacements for the yokohamas, maybe both fronts were worn, I am sure no one at the dealer knows. But the new coopers are really new and still have the rubber edging in spots so look to have had very little use. But this still gives me concerns about the car. There still would be 3 years and 30k left on the powertrain warranty, would this be enough if there were any issues caused by the tires? I have a deposit and am due to pu the car tomorrow at 4pm. I want to call early and tell my concern, I obviously need new matching tires but some assurance that I am protected in case there is damage or for them to check the areas and tell me for sure there is no problem( if I can trust that?).

I am buying an 06 legacy and went to give it a second look this am. They said it has new tires but here is what I found. It has what look to be 2 brand new Cooper tires, they are diagonal on the car, not both on fr or rear. There are two yokohama but they look to be about 70%. I am going to call tomorrow saying I want 4 of the same tires, if they say it does not matter to the AWD are they right. I need a soild argument for 4 new tires. Any ideas? thank you

I am going to pass on it since the basic powertrain will cover. The salesman said that since I got such a good price they would not be doing the 30k service for me. I read the thread on the 30 k and say thats fine with me I would rather handle it myself, I have a great mechanic and he can complete whatever I cant do myself. Would the extended warranty be a good buy at 800 dollars? I know they would never agree to this bu may give it a try. Will Subaru offer me a warranty trade up/ purchase at some point?

This am I signed to buy a 06 legacy with 28k miles from a Subaru dealer.. It still has the b to b and powertrain standard warranties, though only 7k left on the bumper to bumper. I was offered these dealer warranties they are: 60mo/75k for 1280 or a 60mo/100k for 1660. I was told they would start at purchase so it would be for example 60mo /103k ( the 28 plus 75k). The mileage sounds great but this car is only going to be getting about 10k year max, so basing a warranty decision on the mileage seems wrong since in 5 years I may only add 50 k miles taking the car to 79k miles. That would still lie within the range of the orignal powertrain warranty. but not the bumper to bumper. I would like any opinions if it is worth it to buy an extended in my case or just go with the base. Thank you.

Thank you for all the suggestions. Now I am really not sure if I should do it. Can putting new pads on my current setup be any worst than what I have now? The new pads would wear to whatever form the rotors wear pattern was?

Rotors? I did not want to get involved with those. How do I know if the rotors need to be replaced.? I thought I could get away with just the pads.

I want to replace the front pads on my 99 forester but have never done this and am a bit nervous. Is there a grade of pad I would be better with? Any information site that could help get me started or provide a few important pointers? thank you

MY CEL works and goes off when I start the car. There is no at temp lite( manual says only AWD models). Trans fluid is good looking and full, flushed about 35k ago. Drove it today. There is no lockup in any individual gears, the rpm tops out and with the throttle steady on fairly level road it never drops. I remember getting lockup in the 50 -55 range, always noticed it before. My wife has been using it since summer for mostly city driving so I just have not had the opportunity to notice what it does. Other than this the trans shifts fine . I do not know where to start with this. Thank you.

My trans fluid is fine good level and color. I have a 25 mile drive home, the car is well warmed and still will not go into OD. Is there some type of switch or vaccum connection that controls this function?:-\

I have a 91 legacy fwd with AT. The trans seems to be shifting fine but I have noticed that over 50 mph my rpms are high and it rarely will go into overdrive. The trans fluid is full but I do not know what else to look for.Could you give me any suggestions to fix this problem? thank you

I was looking at the new base impreza and wonder what are the actual mpg that some may be getting? My older legacy is a 1.8 and barely gets 30 hiway which is not good. I am really in the market for a hi mpg car so maybe subarus should be passed up?

Thank you for info about the steering. Back to mufflers, how can I find out which year/ models would fit my car? Is it the engine type? I saw an old thread about Flowmaster but if it has to be modified to fit I do not want to do that.

I will call a few parts places but since this muffler lasted 13 years I am inclined to get an authentic part. Going to check junkyards out too. How would I know if a used part would fit my car? Is there a year range or body type I need to look for? Whats an MRT? Another ? I just got a cv boot replaced and the mech said the boots on the steering are cracked. I looked from up top and could not see anything so, is an under the car job? Are they easy or hard to replace? thanks

There is a rust hole for the last 3 years and its growing. Still orig muffler system . Is it better to buy from the dealer$$ or get an aftermarket one? Any suggestions on the best way to go? thank you

I went for inspection and the CEL was on . Mechanic said it was the antiknock so he replaced it for 150$. The CEL came back on 4 days later when I filled the gas tank. He wants to read the codes again but should I allow any repairs? Is it possible to keep getting codes for related problems and never really fixing it?

Both my sube's and another Honda all have the CEL go off when I fill the gas tank. At some point as the gas gets lower they light up. On a 99 Forester where do these codes some from, do you need a special reader?

You may think I am a total lunatic, but there was nothing wrong with the bearing in the first place( at least before I worked on it). While exploring for another problem , I just thought the bearing looked dry. Well I should have watched TV instead of doing something useful. Guess at the least I need to retighten it.

Thats alot, right? almost like a head bolt. Though the little crimp lined up at the same place, I don't think I got anywhere close to those numbers. Should I give another try and really lean on it? Thank you!