srs_49

I replaced both of mine on an '02 H6 back in the fall. Bought two identical pulleys from the dealer, and put one on the tensioner and one on the front of the engine itself. Only one of the pulleys was bad, but I replaced them both. This was at 104K miles or therebouts.

I had a similar problem with a '74 Datsun 260-Z. It had an ammeter as part of the instrument cluster and, when the car was off, it was showing a bit of a discharge. One of the diodes in the alternator was shorted, which was allowing the battery to drain. The other diodes (it was a 6 diode, 3-phase circuit, if I remember correctly) were OK and would charge up the battery once the engine started.

2002 OBW, H6, no mods. Never got anything over 25 mpg, even on the highway keeping it to 65 mph. Overall, averaging around 23 mpg.

Are you talking about a clear coating - almost like a shellac or hard petroleum jelly? I just put some rotors from Beck Arnley on my BMW and they were coated with some material like I described. I assume it's put on as an anti-corrosion protection.

Not to hijack the thread, but I had a '73 Fiat 128-SL that I managed to keep running for 128,000 or so miles. Yeah, it was pretty crappy in ways, but was still loads of fun to drive. Engine was great. Clutch cable would always break in the middle of downtown rush hours (got it home both times without using the clutch). Had to replace front wheel bearings every 35,000 miles or so. Also, would go like there was no tomorrow in snow, with those skinny 13 inch wheels and tires.

Skip - Are you sure they're SCR's and not just plain diodes? If the latter, then could just wire a diode in series with the spliced connection from the turn signal wire.

I agree with Skip. We liked the improved performance of the H6 compared to the H4 and were willing to pay the penalty in reduced gas mileage. BTW, we have over 106,000 miles on our '02 OBW H6 and are still very pleased with it overall.

Don't know for sure, but my guess would be that it does. As I understand it, one (the only???) of the functions of the knock sensor is to prevent engine damage cause by pre-ignition/detonation that could be brought on by running a lower octane gas than is recommended or by somehow having the timing advanced too much. Unless there is some other mechanism for retarding the spark timing when the engine is cold, these conditions could be present when the engine is cold (if a lower octane gas was used, for instance).

We have a 2002 H6, LLBean Edition. I don't think we've ever gotten more then 25 mpg on the road. May have eeked out 26 once - don't have mileage records with me to be sure.

I would not be so quick to discount the lack of the shield on part of the cabling. How much noise/interference is coupled onto a wire (or set of wires) is highly dependent on the frequency of the noise source. In general, the higher the frequency, the smaller the opening in the shield that is needed to allow coupling. Given the relatively low signal level out of the sensor, it would not take a lot of coupled noise to cause a problem. The fact that these wires were shielded originally means that the engineers at Subaru determined that such shielding was necessary. Due to the cost difference between shielded and unshielded wires (and thair associated connectors), they probably would not have specified a shielded cable if an unshielded one would do. I'm not saying the problem isn't the knock sensor itself. Just be aware that the cabling may be part of the problem too.

I am not a fan of extended warranties, for the simple reason that they are big money makers for the issuers. If the dealer/manufacturer/insurance co. is making upwards of 50% or more on these policies, doesn't that tell you something? That said, if you really want one read the contract first, before handing over any money or signing any paperwork. Look closely at what items are excluded and also what the "deductible" (your out-of-pocket expense) is for any given repair. Also, ask what happens if you have to bring the car back in to fix the same problem again in a short time - do you have to pay another deductible? Good luck!

I used to have to replace the front wheel bearings on my '73 Fiat about every 35,000 miles. They were pressed into the hub. I would take everything apart, take the hubs and the new bearings down to a machine shop and they would press the old ones out and press the new ones in for like $20 a hub. Of course that was 30 years ago so price would probably be higher now;). Point is, don't shy away from trying this just because you don't have a press.

I had a similar problem with our '02 OBW. It went on for 2 years(?) or so. I did what Nipper suggested, and cleaned out the check valve in the booster vacuum hose with parts cleaner (actually, I may have used carb cleaner, not sure). It's been fine ever since. Theory is that a little moisture in the line would freeze the check valve and prevent the vacuum from reaching the brake booster. Cleaning out the hose/valve removed the moisture. I would try the simplest/cheapest fix first. For more details, search this thread for "brakes not working when cold" or some similar terms.

You might want to read through this thread- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81842 BTW, I've had the Goodyear Assurance Triple Treds on for 40,000 miles now and have been happy with them.

Don't know how much room you have in the engine compartment, but it was a real bear doing the plugs in our '02 OBW H6. I used every adapter, extension, spark plug socket, flex joint, etc in my collection to get the job done.

Nipper - I'll have to defer to your experience as to the number of Subies with misaligned windows or bad mechanisms. My experience is limited to the OBW I have now:). However, a well designed current monitoring circuit; one that will work reliably for 10 years or more over a -25 deg C to + 50 deg C temperature range and work with a variety of loads is not a trivial thing to design, and probably will not be cheaper than the limit switch. Though limit switches, being mechanical devices (unless they're optical or some other type on non-contact sensing) do have a lifetime limit, that lifetime can be in excess of 1 million operations for a high quality switch.

You may be right about the current-draw monitor. But, if it were me, I would want a hard limit switch (not that I have that option). Seems like there are too many other things that could cause the motor current to increase such as a mis-aligned window, sticking weather stripping, snow/ice, or just plain aging of the motor or bearings, any of which could cause the window to stop prematurely if was just based on current draw.

I think it's the lower window position limit switch. Either it failed or is knocked out of alignment. BTW, the driver's side windows on my '87 BMW does the same thing. Just waiting for something else to go wrong to make me pull the door panel off:rolleyes:.

Ahhh, right! I knew there was a good reason I didn't use the sealant on the front diff:rolleyes:.

I agree, since I tend to keep my cars a long time. My daily drive is an '87 BMW with around 190,000 miles on it. Will keep this forum informed of how things go.

I just did both my diffs. Didn't use anything on the front drain plug, but used some Permatex Thread Sealant, P/N 59214 on both the drain and fill plugs on the rear. Will let you know in another 100,000 miles which plugs come out easier:).

I would drain a bit just to keep the spill to a minimum when you pull the hose off.

I seem to get a little better than what you reported with our '02 H6 OBW, but not by a lot. We get 23-24 mpg going to the mountains, usually around 75 mph with a Thule luggage carrier on top (which can't be helping gas mileage). Don't think I've ever seen anything over 25 mpg. Usually run mid-grade (89 octane).

I had a similar problem with my '87 BMW (325). If the car was just sitting, things would be fine - no water anyplace in the trunk. If I drove it in the rain, the jack compartment and other pockets would have water in them. I traced it to the trunk lid gasket, which seems to have become compressed over the years (duh!) and wasn't sealing properly. I went to the local big box hardware store and bought some black, tubular self-adhesive weather stripping. Think it cost around $12. I put this around the edge of the trunk lid so it would meet the existing gasket, which was on the car body. I had to adjust the latch as the trunk was too hard to close with both gaskets in place. But, that fixed the leaks.