pianodirt

Thanks again, I really appreciate it. I did use a cheap plastic washbin under the working brake, which was helpful for catching things and dripping brake fluid. Unfortunately, I somehow missed printing your instructions out (I had some other ones), but I did most of it the way you described. A couple things I did different and was wondering if I messed something up and/or should re-do something. Brakes are working great, BTW. After installing the new caliper and reattaching the brake line/banjo bolt, I didn't open the bleed valve with a piece of vinyl tubing like you suggested. I just removed the hose clamp from the brake line after re-attaching. What I did do, once I replaced the caliper on the opposite side, was to bleed the system RF>LR>LF>RR diagonal sequence, using a piece of tubing in a jar of brake fluid. I was unable to turkey baster the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder (I would have needed a syringe), so I just put new fluid in and kept it topped up after each brake bleed. It never did run clear after 6-7 pumps on each brake, but it ran more clear than the first fluid that came out did (and no bubbles), so I called it good. From your instructions, I didn't do this quite right and it's possible I may have introduced dirt or air into the ABS system? If so, would flushing the brake lines again using your tubing-looped-up-2-inches method fix that? I was watching the fluid and there was very little bubbles and there was such little back flush that I think it was pointless to have the tubing in a jar with brake fluid (to eliminate air getting sucked into the system). I know you didn't suggest doing it that way and I got those instructions from a couple different youtube videos on brakes. Also a tip I learned I think also on youtube. I don't know if this is common or specific to Subarus: To remove a stuck rotor, place a 12mm bolt (I used one from under the hood of the car) in one of the two holes on either side of the axle nut and wrench it in, it will pop off a stuck rotor. We still had to do some hammering/prying to get each rotor off, but the 12mm bolt trick really helped it get started. My helper friend said if the brakes are feeling mushy in a few days, we may need to bleed the system again. Just on the way home, the brakes seem to be now working great, there is better stopping power and brakes feel firmer, which is what I would expect. One pad was down to the metal backing plate and actually fell out of the old caliper when I removed it. Also on the way home I was going a bit fast on some snow and the ABS kicked in when I braked, so that seems to be working well.

One more question before the game starts... Two of you suggested using anti-seize on the caliper slide pins. It's probably a moot point for this brake job (because I am replacing the calipers), but I have read others claim to use nothing but silcone grease for the pins. Has to do with the rubber bushings that can be corroded with other greases, petroluem and synthetic alike. I take it, none of you have had problems as such using anti-seize for the pins? I got a bottle of the Permatex stuff that upnorthguy recommended, which is a petroluem/synthetic blend. If I can have a bottle of goop good for more than one thing, all the better, IMO. Can't find the silicone grease online for less thant $25/bottle.

Wow, you guys are all great...very helpful. Keith, you're the first to suggest the ABS tip of threading up the vinyl tubing a couple inches while bleeding. Thanks. From what I can tell (another rookie question) is if I only replace the calipers/rotors/pads on the rear of the car, then do I have to bleed all four brakes (in proper sequence)? From what I've read, this is a yes. The budget is tight right now and I was hoping to not have to buy another set of jack stands, because I was hoping to bleed the back brakes first and then the front (moving the jack stands back to front), but because of the diagonal sequence required, I'll have to have all four points jacked up. I'll probably just end up getting another set of stands, nonetheless. I will probably just skip the gravity bleed method, because never having done this before, I don't know the signs of knowing whether or not I got any air in the system. I will bleed normal and perhaps next time will try a gravity bleed. We're getting loaded Raybestos calipers (about $79 ea) and Raybestos rotors (about $25/ea). Seems like a reasonable price for our needs and seems to be a reputable brand. I bought some Raybestos semi-metallic/ceramic combo pads for $47 (probably better pads than what are in the loaded calipers) but I am going to return those and just do the whole thing. I've copied your notes down (along with upnorthguy's and 1982gl4's) to print out and refer to while I do this. Thanks again.

Again, very helpful. I've viewed several you tube videos on brakes and while I am gleaming some basics, it seems every guy has a slightly different preference for some things, or calling different parts the same thing. Took me a while to figure out that "rotor" and "disc" are the same thing. One guy called shims as very thin metal plates on the back side of the pads, the side facing the caliper. Another guy (an actual mechanic) called the shims as small irregular thin metal bracket things that go between the caliper and the ends of the pads. Sounds like you refer to shims as the same latter definition.

I just watched a ton of youtube videos on brakes and feel confident enough to take it all apart and see for myself what is really going on. The tech didn't say the pad was gone, he just said it was metal on metal. We had taken the car to a (more trusted) tire/brake shop Spring of 2014 and they said the pads had 40% wear left. Haven't driven the car much in the last 9 months, so I find it hard to believe it's truly metal on metal already. I also see that the shop we took it to the other day massively inflates their prices...$220 for rotors and loaded calipers from the parts store vs $325 (labor was extra) for the tire shop...exact same part numbers. I can understand shops needing to inflate prices a bit...but 67% seems a bit much to me. When you say "...as long as the piston goes back...", what does this mean? Do you mean to make sure they will go back as in when you compress them (I think the Forester has dual pistons) before putting it all back together? Or do you mean go back as in the caliper isn't seized to the disc? Thanks again!

A couple more questions: For brake pads, do they all come with shims? If not, do I need to buy shims? Or if not using shims, would one use anti-sieze on the back side of the pads instead? Or does either of those not matter all that much?

LOL, thanks for the e-brake tip, I sure do appreciate learning from your experience! I've had a few of those. So if the bleeder screws are likely to break off, how does one bleed the brakes? We do have some salt around here, but I don't think it's as bad as you get. I'm in a small town in Eastern WA, not Seattle like my profile says (need to change that). The tips on tools required is really helpful. I can't tell you how many various home/auto repairs that should've taken 15 minutes turned into 2 day quests because I didn't have the right tool and either broke something or made multiple trips for the right tools!

Thank you! This is very helpful. Thanks to "suberdave" on this forum, I found a PDF version of "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive". Granted, that book is for 1988 and older Soobs. In the brake section, he writes about needing a 36mm (I mistakenly wrote 19mm before) to remove the axle nut. It sounds like that removing an axle nut isn't necessary on a relatively more modern Soob? We have two parts stores in our small town. Napa and Federated. Napa tends to be rather expensive for parts (paid almost $200 for a new battery for my diesel Jetta last year) and the battery I just bought from Federated for the Forester is significantly smaller than the one that it replaced. I've never heard of Federated stores before, and while their prices are low, I wonder if they're just super cheap in quality. The quote (for Federated branded) brakes was $79/ea per loaded caliper and $25/ea per rotor. Having never bought brake parts before, I don't know what's relative, but looking online, I see rotors that go for three times that amount. Haven't received a quote yet from Napa. Another thought...I've never bought auto parts online that had a core deposit. The idea of having to ship back parts and wait for them to process the refund doesn't appeal to me at first. I suppose if the price was right, then it might be worth it. One site said it could take up to 30 days for the refund to happen, after the mfr had okayed the core return. What has your experience been with online parts retailers and core deposit refunds?

Hello USMB! I have been long gone from this forum. I was active 2003-2006 when I had an '87 GL hatchback. One of the great suggestions I got from here was the book, "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive", the one with the Star Trek theme. I loved that book. It taught me some basics how automobiles work as well as great detailed repair/maintenence instructions. Written for a real person, not like the Hayne's manuals. I don't think I still have it, though. I used the book one time to attempt replace my brake pads (I had never done this before) and when I got to be able to see the pads, they were plenty good, so I skipped it. I did a forum search before posting and did find a couple of good tips (such as a sequence to flushing the brake lines), but not something as basic as what I'm writing about. I've never replaced brakes before on any car and am looking for some direction. Any great detailed instructions (especially specific to Subaru) available online on how to replace brakes? Or would the "Keep Your Subaru Alive" still be relevant to a 2001 Forester, if I can get my hands on a copy again? I have a friend who is going to help me with the brake job (teach me how to do it), but I would like to learn as much about it as I can before hand. As far as I understand, replacing brakes is fairly universal from vehicle to vehicle, but would love to know if there are any things specific to a 2001 Forester I should know. We took the Forester to a tire place (the big one named LS) and they said it needed the rear calipers and rotors in addition to pads. They wanted almost $500 to do so, which is not uncommon to my past experience, but I'd like to learn how to do it myself, as well as save a few $$. Went to a parts store and they suggested "loaded" calipers, that already have the pads mounted on them. A few other questions: * Any pro/con of the loaded calipers vs. unloaded? * Do rotors, calipers and pads need to be matched by manufacturer/brand? Or is it okay to mix and match based upon price? * The array of differently priced rotors, calipers and pads was dizzying on one online retailer. Are there any general suggestions for these parts...as in, "cheaper rotors are just as good as the expensive ones, but don't skimp on calipers or pads"? * If I am replacing rotors, calipers and pads, will I need to bleed the brake lines? It seems this is one of the more complicated things to do, which I'm willing to learn, but if I don't have to do it, that would be great. Brakes are not mushy presently. * Special tools required? I have some basic tools and I think I still have that 17mm or 19mm socket that was required to get the wheel hub off of my '87 GL. Thanks for your patience with these rookie questions and I thank you in advance of anything you can point me to. pd

Wow, thanks EmmCeeBee, great site, thanks!

Hey, I would take you up on those instructions if you want to mail them. I'm looking to do my first belt job and need all the help I can get. My address: Jason Rumohr 4426 147th Pl NE #A-11 Bellevue, WA 98007

Yup, run new wiring to the speakers. Easiest install for the head unit is to go to a car stereo store or crutchfield.com and buy a stereo wiring harness for your car, about $20. Saves the major headache of rewiring and gives you the option to reinstall/upgrade whatever stereo you want without a whole new rewire. Better yet, return your stereo (unless you got it free) and just buy from Crutchfield. They give you all the wire harness adaptors and speaker wire adaptors for undoing the common ground as well as detailed diagrams and info specific to your model of car. They give you all this extra stuff free, easily $30-$40 worth of stuff, not to mention the instructions you can't get anywhere else. I don't work for them, just a very happy customer 3x now.

Uhhh...okay, another rookie question here... Am i fine to just touch the disty body? If I accidentally touch the coil or plug wires, will i get a big jolt, seeing how I got that Accel coil on there now, all the more reason not to get a shock! Thanks.

Yes, what 88rx says is what happens to my car. I paid even closer attention to it today and, yes the sound does come back after the engine has been running (hotter) for quite a while. So the sound comes when it's cold, disappears when warmed a few minutes and comes back later. I've still to try the wax thing, been working all day.

Thanks GD, I'll try that. I take it if this is the problem, then it's merely an annoyance and not sign of a belt about to fail. The belt looks nearly new.

A recent new noise has popped up in my 87 wagon. There is a mid-pitch loud whirring sound coming from the front of the engine. I'm thinking it's the drivebelt fan, but not sure, maybe the alternator. It increases with the throttle and after 3000RPMs gets quite loud, almost louder than the engine itself. This always happens on a cold start and usually goes away after warming up on the freeway for a few minutes. I'm wondering if the belts might be loose, since they've never been tightened since they were replaced a couple years ago. I pressed down on one of them in the midpoint and it didn't seem to deflect more than 2/3". I'm hoping this is a common issue and someone knows what needs to be fixed/adjusted.

Got my "parts list" i bought off ebay today. it's pages torn out from a catalog! no idea what catalog this is from or wether some or all the parts are oem or not, but there are prices listed and give me a good idea as to what things might cost new and some nice blow apart diagrams for rookies like me. Worth the $3.50 i paid for it.

You can find parts sheets for cheap on ebay. I just bought one and am waiting for it in the mail. I think it is just a list though, no diagrams. I'll post about it when I get it if this thread is still going.

I've got a similar problem I am about to tackle. I recently got the Haynes manual and they show something like 4, 5 or 6 adjusting screws, I can't remember. Screws for up/down, forward/back, camber? and a couple other angles. It might give you a better idea. Buy a Haynes cheap from Half.com

When I first bought my Soob, I asked a couple different soob mechanics what weight of oil I should use, and they both replied (different shops), "10W40". I don't claim to understand the different weights and when to use what, so I am writing to hear of what other soob users in the Pacific NW use for synth oils. I currently use Castrol 10W40 dino and am considering switching to Mobil 1 synthetic. Should I switch to Mobil 1 10W40 or a different grade? The engine has about 95kmi on it. I rarely go 4-wheeling and is mostly my daily driver with quite a bit of freeway miles on it.

Well, two places actually. I first bought 5 quarts of 75w90 at B&B auto supply in renton @ $8/ea. Then I read I should use the NS stuff for the MT. I went to the same B&B, where they had just about every Redline product, but the store manager had never heard of the NS stuff and said something about all the parts stores in the area buy theire RL stuff from them. But he let me return 4 of the quarts until I could bring him in a part number from the internet (i rolled my eyes at that point). So I went a block south to a specialty store called Honest Performance, where they had the 75w90NS for about $10.25 a quart. Hmmm, might be cheaper to buy online, even with the shipping charge? B&B in Renton is at 401 Rainier N, Renton, (206) 772-6380 Oh, and this was the first time changing the MT oil for this rookie. I had read somewhere (i think it was in "Keeping your Subaru Alive") to be sure to get a new drain plug washer for the MT drainplug when changing the fluid. I kept putting the change off because folks at the parts stores couldn't find what I was asking for and finally one lady said she had never seen a drain plug gasket/washer on any MT drain plug she'd seen. She showed me what a drain plug usually looked like and it looked like the top rear diff plug, which I had removed. She was right, at least on my ea82, there's no gasket, nor do I see room for one, unless it is ultrathin.

I finally got around to replacing the MT/diff oil and rear diff in my wagon today. Who knows when it was last done, the oil that came out was very dark and the rear diff oil smelled burnt. The MT drain plug had some metal shavings and a thick gray sludge on it. I understand the shavings would be from grinding gears, but what would the sludge be from? I put redline 75w90ns in the front and 75w90 in the rear. It shifts easier, quicker and more smoothly. Thanks to all who gave their two or three cents on the much debated subject of redline/synthetics/dino and that whole bit.

I found this: http://www.auto-rx.net/index.html But it says it's a transmission cleaner, is it okay to put in the crankcase too?

I finally got the cargo cover fixed. I feel a bit silly...I tried punching the pin crosswise, thus bending it and making the punch through the tiny hole more work, but I did get them out. I couldn't tell it was a pin at first or the tiny punch hole on the sides, I was punching all to hell from the ends (large hole that faces body sides of car). I took it apart and put it back together. I wasn't quite sure how the springs worked, but thought maybe a putogether would work. Oh, I did roll the cover up before the putogether. The cover works now, though it does roll up more slowly and not quite completely, but at least it is not just a limp thing.

Forkspear- How/where did you punch to get the ends off? I'm hitting pretty hard but I don't want to break the thing. I'm punching in the end where it looks like a punch would go. There's a metal tube with a pin going across it in the end hole, that's what I'm punching on...no luck yet. Thanks!