uniberp

My 97 2.2 is the smoothest engine I ever owned, but it runs much better in 2k-2.6k revs with the resistor in place of the knock sensor, which I replaced and torqued correctly. With the knock sensor, it really kind of bogs at 2.2k-2.6k. New front 02 sensor too. Premium gas helps a bit, but is there a way to really test how much detonation is going on and maybe adjust the curve with a varistor or something? I've run techron through, no diff. And the car runs perfect for the first hour after disconnecting the ebattery for an hour and reconnecting.

99SOHC Before changing the timing belt/pulleys, I tried to rotate the engine to the point where timing marks on pulleys liked up with timing marks on old belt, but actually ran the battery down cranking it over, and never got closer than 2 teeth? Finally gave up and just moved the sprockets a little. Also, the Goodyear Gatorback belts MAY NOT align correctly. I replaced it so that the marks appeared lined up jut to the one side of a tooth on the left sprocket like this pic: (ed. Pic removed, see same pic at bottom) BUT IT WAS WRONG. One tooth off, at least. Ran crappy, threw a CEL after first test drive. I replaced it with an OEM subaru belt and the marks were dead on. Pics to come. (new pic below also) Is there a method for counting the turns, or had the belt skipped or something? I replaced all idlers, tensioners, water pump, and belt.

99Legob is DOHC. Probably Headgasket. If the owner knew how to remove the thermostat he knew more, that the HG was gone. 6900 is way out of the range. Offer him 3500 if everything else is perfect. Test drive it and leave a hidden note for the potential new owner that they need major engine work and were probably ripped off if they paid anything close to to KBB.

Do you notice the hesitation when you have techron in the tank? That's kind of my point. Fuel additives, even those that are supposedly just cleaners, may reduce knock.

Yep, "Holts" is molded right right on the bottle. Just an FYI: I think I noticed on the inside of that label that it contains "linseed husk". Somehow that appealed to me. It worked, stopped my drivers side HG exteral drip up the 99sohc PII.

dupe

I heartily disagree with this statement. Dealers make a great deal more than you imagine on each new car. Far more than they make on the service of that car over it's entire life. Maintenance is gravy, I'll grant, but not the other.

I get an occasional 'bucking' (usually just one 'buck') when the car is loaded at highway speed. The knock sensor was replaced some time ago, but I am considering moving it to a different location to minimize the effect. Another test would be to simply run premium gas. That should knock less. The repeated references (here) to how much fuel additives/injector cleaners (seafoam, Techron) improve performance, seem to me that they simply reduce knock enough to reduce timing retardation. At least for THAT tank of gas. ??

I like it. It is reminiscent of the 360. If only the world slowed down enough so we could actually drive 360's. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_360

You may have done damage to the compressor by running it low on refrigerant/oil. If it is noisy enough to indicate mechanical failure you may be faced with the "black death" (like I was) requiring replacement of every major component and thorough cleaning of the lines. I have other threads on how to modify the currently available evaporator coil to fit my 97 legacy. The exact original part may not be available. Fortunately, all components are easy to remove and replace. IMO, AC recharging is not a casual task for the DIY, and usually should be evacuated prior to recharging.

It is my opinion that 90% of all "warped" rotor problems are caused by uneven pad deposition on the rotor surface. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml Of course, resurfacing or replacement corrects both conditions. It's still the rotor.

99 PhaseII SOHC. If your crank gear is stuck on. Here's a pic of my crank gear sprocket puller setup, using the M8x1.25 tap-existing-holes method. (There are two round holes through the stock gear, on opposite sides of the crank. They are the perfect size to thread with an M8x1.25 tap) This is not my idea, but it is my pic. In this pic: the gear is already partly pulled off. A socket has been inserted at the end of the crank to continue. I used nuts to allow the bolt to remain fixed in the full thread of the hole, since the tap did not go exactly straight and I only got about 7-8 full threads on it. It slid off pretty smoothly, at first one flat at a time, then later more easily. Notice the broken tang from a previous attempt with a normal puller. Also, since eveything around it is aluminum, do not try to pry a reluctant gear off the crank, you will just do more damage. This is the $10 solution.

Is the crank gear held fast in place by being pressed tight against the small radius at the base of the crank nose? I have a cracked woodruff, and looking at the small size of the key, it seems unlikely that it would bear the full brunt of the cam drive. I can understand why they would not use a full 'morse' type taper, because those can unfreezably freeze. So the crank bolt presses BOTH pulley and crank together and agains the radius taper? Here's a pic of my crank gear sprocket puller setup, using the M8x1.25 tap-existing-holes method. Worked just fine. Thanks to the author of that idea. The gear is already partly pulled off. I used nuts to allow the bolt to remain fixed in the full thread of the hole, since the tap did not go exactly strasight and I only got about 7-8 full threads on it. It slid off pretty smoothly, at first one flat at a time. Notice the busted off tang on the gear. I ground down the tips of a regular puller to fit, but that was the result. NEWBIES NOTE: read up on tapping a thread before you start. I nearly snapped the tap off. Tapping must be done in stages, backed up each 1/4 turn or less to snap the preceding chip off. Use oil, get it as straight as possible, and remove it entirely afer each two full turns once you are into the full threads.

Thanks for the spring clamp tip. The twist is caused by the valve springs, I'm pretty sure, so I don't think the plugs would make a difference turning the cams, but I'll try it. They would in turning the crank, though, which I do very slowly when the cams aren't in synch.

Thanks. Phase II. Good runner. IDK why one is plastic. Coud be a new head on that side for all I know. Yep, the hash marks, not the arrows. At this point I think I will order a new crank sprocket, and run it as is. The 'carbon' pulleys do not seem to have bad failure rates. I thought one cam beltmark was supposed to be on the tooth and one on the groove. These are both on the groove. Goodyear belt.

?? where is this recommendation?

99 2.5 SOHC During Crank pulley repair/replacement, I removed the timing belt to change the idlers. The cogged one definitely needed replacement. Aside from the timing belt seeming to be one tooth off on the left cam ( at mechanic), and the woodruff key being busted in 2 pieces, and the crank sprocket now requiring the "M8 tap-puller" method, the left cam now will not sit at the timing mark. It springs right or left about 20 degrees, to I assume a full closed position. Is this normal when the crank and right cam pulley are exactly on their marks? Am I a full rotation off or something? Is this a problem with a valve spring? To remove the crank sprocket, I have filed even the slight rise where the crank pulley hogged the keyway slightly. The new pulley fits very nicely. I got the Agency Power stock size pulley. I will be doing the tap tonight. Also, I broke a tang off the crank sprocket in a "levered puller" attempt I made and hit lightly to try to crack the sprocket loose. Considering the tap, the busted tang, the snapped woodruff key, and the fact that it's probably just a sintered gear, I think I just want to replace it. Also, the left cam pulley is metal. The right is plastic. I want to replace the plastic one, but read a nightmare (here) about removing the nut. Nice clean seals, no seepage. I'm going to wait on those. Thoughts? Thanks in advance. mpergielelmhurstil97legato99forester

Thanks gg. Inspection means rolling smooth but not freely and no surface rust or marks? Can I spray away the steel dust with brake cleaner without damaging seals?

$75 for a front right good cv AND A auto tranny is a VERY good price! If the tranny is good, I mean. Otherwise not so much. But not much goes wrong with auto trannys. And the work to replace it to find out if it is good is kind of a lot. If you have a dead tranny, it's a great deal wirth the try. Kind of heavy to ship if you sell it, and I wouldn't want to sell an unknown quality tranny locally for anything more than scrap value, and I am not allowed to have extra transmissions around the garage. New rules for not being a scrounge.

How accurate can a Hall effect DC ammeter be? With all the variations of cable size and current density, it seems like it would have to be calibrated to an inline ammeter.

While I am replacing the crank pulley, and cleaning out the iron dust that accumulated during it's failure, I am replacing the tensioner, both upper smooth pulleys and the lower cogged pulley, which the mechanic who did the cambelt felt was unnecessary to replace at 105k Seals are not leaking, and 3 sprockets look fine. I'd like to get it done this weekend, and the dealer has NO parts in stock, ever. Except for lug nuts. I need a lot of lug nuts, thanks. 99 2.5 SOHC Forester. Should I replace that lower right (passenger side) smooth pulley if it seems allright? Seems like it doesn't work too hard, basically guiding the belt and keeling it from flapping. Does it get noisy? Thanks mpergielelmhurstil99forester97legacy "the Legato".

Forgot to ask, is it a DOHC? DOHC shouldn't be too much different, but IDK for sure. Can't remember if the 99 OB had that setup.

Car engines run REALLY GREAT on pure acetone, but only for a few miles. Be sure to change your oil after using stong reagents in your fuel system. Do I smell Hormel?

That's a pretty big resistor, no? Does this mean: if the "Send" wire is disconnected from the gauge, the CT windings will build up and hold a charge? Like a capacitor?

You will have no problem. You'll need metric tools . The only thign that won't come in a standard socket set is the 22mm for the crank pulley. Invest finally in that GOOD torque wrench. Use the clutch/TC inspection hole to lock the crank. I had the best luck doing that. Oh and disconnect the battery. You got airbags in this one.