unibrook
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Posts posted by unibrook
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backwoodsboy
Hi, can you email me please? Your PM box is full, and I would like to ask you a couple of quick questions, thanks.
Nat 617-988-8151
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backwoodsboy Hi, can you email me please? Your PM box is full, and I would like to ask you a couple of quick questions, thanks.
Nat
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On 4/27/09 the local clown inde car repair shop (whose name shall remain El Bern Garage on Maassholle Ave in Boston) told my wife there was an exhaust leak, and failed the car for inspection. My bro the mechanic and I did the rag over exhaust pipe test and could find no leak by listening and searching with a flashlight.
So, I took it back in and spoke to the owner, I said, “can you show me where the exhaust leak is since you failed the car?” He replies, “uh, yeah, there’s a charge to put it up on a lift and inspect it.” Then I said, “well, I took it to my mechanic and he and I searched for a leak and couldn’t find one.” The weasel then started to backpeddle, “oh, uh, it was probably an audible, let me see.” He starts the car, presses the rag over the exhaust pipe and says, “aw, there’s good pressure there, that’s all they care about.” Then he slaps the new sticker on the car.
No wonder car repair shops have the worst reputation for scamming.
I am 2 for 2 now in my recent dealings with car repair shop monkies.
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Yikes! um, yes...by all means, remember to remove the circlip first!
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I doubt it is a wheel bearing bcuz it would make that whurring sound very steadily regardless of accelerating/coasting etc.
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2001 Forester 93260 miles. Finally got that driver's rear wheel bearing replaced. To review, I had taken this into the inde shop (whose name shall remain County Auto in Somerville, MA) in Dec 2007 to have both rear wheel ball bearings replaced with upgrade roller bearings. Shop assured me they would use the upgrade bearings and do it as Subaru recommends. They charged me about as much as the dealer would have $691. Fairly soon after, the driver's rear bearing began to make noise again. By November, less than 5k miles later it was howling badly. I took it into same shop, they refused to repair for free or reduced charge (they said the Subaru warranty only covered parts for 6 months). So I bought the Hub Tamer and got hold of all necessary tools and new bearing etc and finally replaced it myself on 4/26/9. (Many thanks to HoHieu on this list for all of his advice. And I can share my step by step notes if anyone wants them). Lo and behold, as I tore into the old bearing to remove it..........out tumble a bunch of BALL BEARINGS! They screwed me. Doubtful they did more than slap some more grease in the existing original NTN ball bearings and sent me on my merry way. They will be repaying me, or I will be happy to explain it all to a Small Claims Court judge. And I will hand him the cracked in half ball bearing for emphasis!
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2001 Forester, 93000 miles on it. Driver's rear wheel ball bearing cracked (yes, one of the balls actually broke in half) during a highway drive on 11/26/8. It was very loud from then until yesterday 4/26/9 which is the earliest I could get to it to fix it. But for us that was only about 1500 miles. There never was any play or wiggle to the wheel.
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Probably your rear wheel bearings.
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otoh, with a cable clutch (1982 GL wagon...bless her little sexy heart!), it might break every 5 yrs, but it is CHEAP and EASY to adjust/replace it yourself in 10 minutes. How easy is it to replace your slave or master cylinder when they start leaking?
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yep, it's those lateral forces against the joints that I am worried about.
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This brings up a good point, my bro the mechanic warns that you might damage the axle using this forcing screw design of hub remover cuz it stresses the axle. Subaru uses the slide hammer method.
Anyone ever damage their axle using the screw press method?
(oh, btw, Advance Auto DOES have the adapter to fit the Subaru lug nut pattern...you just need to ask 4 different clerks about it until you find the person who knows wtf is up in his store. :-\
Powerbilt Kit #41 provides the slide hammer, Kit #40 provides the adapter yoke that fits Subaru)
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I think that sounds perfect, but I don't have the old brake rotor.
What do you think about putting the slide hammer rod thru the rotor, then attaching the washers and nut and yanking it out like that? Do you think the odds of damaging the hub are too high?
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The 1982 GL wagon for $1000 in 1989. Over the next 3 yrs I put new axles on her and a rebuilt carb. But my father got an even better deal when he bought it from me for $500. (well, part of what makes it such a great deal is he bred my younger bro, certified mechanic, who maintains that little red Subeeyatch like it is Paris Hilton. It has 140,000 miles on it and runs like a top. Rust will eventually get her, but you would be amazed how far paint can metal and rivets over foam core will get you!
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Just wondering if anyone KNOWS of a SPECIFIC yoke that definitely fits the Forester standard lug pattern so I can slide hammer this beeyatch hub out of the knuckle. The 5 star lug pattern measures 6.0 cm between nearest lug bolt centers. And 9.50 cm between furthest lug bolt centers. Big thanks if anyone can help. (All sorts of slide hammers with yokes available on the web, but, ahem.....hellooooo sellers, if you don't provide accurate specs in your description of the tool, how can I tell if it will fit my car?)
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Still in process of replacing my driver's rear wheel bearing. Turns out that you only need to melt off the forward lip of the rear lateral link bolt bushing and then the frozen bushing/collar/bolt can be twisted out fairly easily. Took about 7 minutes with the propane torch to burn that lip off. Don't think that you need to actually melt out the entire bushing, you don't. Of course, I had the best of the worst case scenario...only the rear bushing was corrosion welded to the lateral link bolt. The bolt slid thru the front bushing freely.
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Thanks!! I always wondered that too!
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Does the car hesitate and misfire? Does it only seem to have the problem when the engine is warm? If so, try replacing the front 02 sensor.
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reeze, if your hesitation prob comes back, your next usual suspect should be the front 02 sensor if it hasn't been changed in the last 40k miles. That cured the problem for me...2001 Forester. Phase 2 2.5 SOHC.
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Just one question...can I call you El Duderino?
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I wrapped a big hose clamp around mine, been working fine for months.
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btw, you can use a cotter pin instead of a springpin if you need to. I have had no probs using one as a substitute.
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Good point. So many silly laws. And whatever you do, don't grow your own dope or brew your own beer! That might let you buy less taxable product from the big Pharms and Breweries! Can't have that! :-)
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I went this route also: BR-3 OBDII reader from http://obddiagnostics.com/. But a bit of a pain to use for me, my laptop battery is dead, so I have to hook laptop up to my cig lighter. And the onboard realtime diagnostics don't seem to work right. OTOH, it does tell me what code is being thrown, and it does allow me to clear it. If I were to go out and do it all again, I would get one of those small Harbor Freight code reader/clearers just for ease of use and handling.
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I tightened the Pwr Steering/Alternator belt. Took me 30 mins: 1. Remove the belt guards using 10mm and 12mm sockets/wrenches. This will "force" you to loosen the alternator pivot bolt. 2. Press into middle of belt to check how loose it is. Mine had about an inch of movement. Check this belt and the other belt for wear or any condition problem, since you are so close to it. 3. Loosen the lock nut--about half way down the shaft of the slider (adjuster) bolt. 4. Lube up all of the bolts while you are here. 5. Tighten the slider bolt one full turn clockwise, enough to make the belt only move about .25" when you press down on the middle of it. 6. Tighten lock nut. 7. Replace all belt guards. 8. Start car and test drive, do some tight full lock turning to test for squeals.
exhaust leak results
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by unibrook
Crikey Avk, that blows they tried to feed you that loose bearing scam. I tell my brother all the time, it is priceless having a certified mechanic for a brother!
Yep, they were trying to scare my wife into paying for an imaginary repair. In Mass, if they fail the car, you get a Rejection sticker in the window and you have 60 days to repair the car and come back to have it pass inspection. What I love, is how he starts off with his load of crap that he is going to CHARGE me to put it on the lift and inspect it! FIRK U PAL !!! What did my wife pay you the $29 dollar "inspection fee" for if not to inspect the car to begin with !!!!!!!!!!!! whatta worm this guy is.