unibrook
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Posts posted by unibrook
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Do I understand right that you recently replaced the front 02 sensor?
If not, then do it.
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Use a manifold gauge to read system pressures, trying to check it by tricking the compressor into turning on tells you nothing.
There are several relays for the AC system IIRC. I don't remember of hand exactly what each one does, but you may be able to find out by searching the boards here for an online copy of the service manual for your car.
Where was the switch that you jumped? The pressure switch is mounted on top of the accumulator/drier on the passenger strut tower.
Be sure to check any fuses related to the AC system in the main fuse/relay panel.
Yes. The low pressure switch is atop the dryer canister. That is the one I jumped. Will check the fuse in the cabin also.
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2001 Forester 100k miles.
A/C switch light comes on when pressed, but compressor does not engage.
Multimeter test to compressor shows no power.
I switched compressor relay, but still no power to compressor.
Power to Low pressure switch is ok at 14.2v. And I jumped the two wires in it to see if that would cause power to flow to compressor, but no.
What next? Are there other fuses or relays in the system that I haven't found yet, that I should test?
Should I jump a wire straight from the battery pos terminal to the compressor connector to see if it will engage that way? and to see if refrigerant is still up to good pressure?
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Thanks guys, I will try the multimeter test this weekend.
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2001 Forester 99.5k miles:
New condensor and recharge about 1 year ago.
When I turn on the A/C switch and fan........no compressor engagement.
What are the usual suspects I should check first?
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Thx all for the good points raised. It seems I should worry about the carb cleaner possibly degrading the rubber boots on the brake cylinder, so I will use brake cleaner only. thx again.
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Are these two essentially the same?
Can I use carb cleaner on my rear drum brakes as I change them?
Any probs with this?
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Oil is holding steady at halfway full.
hmmm. no obvious issue appearing.
I will change the oil next week and give a close inspection under the engine while I am there.
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I always just "price in" the assumption that this sort of major repair will happen kinda soon when I bid on a car. I pick a fair price in my head, then I subtract $2000 or whatever I think the due repairs and maintenance will amount to, and I stand firm on the price. If this deal doesn't happen, move on to the next one.
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No, I change the oil myself.
I put another quart into it today, since the dipstick was still looking dry.
Finally got it up to halfway between the dipstick holes.
Will monitor on a daily basis for a while to see what the hay is happening.
I still can't see any leaks.
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2001 Forester 99k miles.
yikes. I changed my oil about 5k miles ago. Getting ready to do it again soon, just happened to check my oil level yest, down over a full quart. It has never lost this much oil between changes before. I will monitor it over the next few weeks. So far, I haven't seen any leaks around the engine, no smell of burning oil, no oil smoke in exhaust. No puddles under car. I hope it isn't anything major that needs engine pulling!
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2001 Forester 99242 miles on her.
The belt was loose.....and it was also separating longitudinally. So I replaced it with an $18 Dayco belt from Autozone. Now we have our power steering back! And no more screech.
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change your front 02 sensor if it hasn't been done in the last 40k miles.
after MUCHO trial and error searching, this turned out to be the cause of my running rough when warm problem.
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I have a squeaking belt in the morning with stiff steering issue appearing now. I will try your water spray trick and report back here. Is that supposed to temporarily recondition the belt to perform better?
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U could first try some Power Steering Stop Leak goop........if you need a quick fix to get you by for a while.
I used that junk in my old Saab story for years. Never did end up bothering to replace the pump b4 I dumped the car.
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I know my 4 yr old can break an OEM cup holder in no time!
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Seeing as you are up in the snow belt, you can bet yur bippy that the bolts that hold the disc bracket in place are frozen. Take my advice, hit them with heat before trying to wrench them off.
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Glad to hear Hbr Frt has a cheaper alternative to the Hub Tamer now.
I own and used the Hub Tamer and I am very happy with it....but I think it cost me $350, so not cheap!
PM me if you want my step by step notes on doing Forester rear wheel bearings.
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Hmmm kinda expensive in my eyes.
Here around Boston, but with 100k miles, the car sells on CrList for $5k.
I went and looked at a 2001 Forester L this morning. It was at a small used car dealer. It was a dealer trade in that they purchased for resale. Gold/tan, 69,000 miles. Carfax showed that it received regular servicing from a local Subaru dealer including the 60,000 mile recommended service. 1 owner. Very clean, in and out. No sign of head gasket leaking or bad wheel bearings. The only things I found were the tire tread was pretty worn, maybe about 6 months left on them and there was a slight heat shield vibration noise upon acceleration.The asking price was 6,900. Edmunds.com shows a dealer retail at 7,876 and the trade in value of 5,602. I offered 6,100 on the spot and the guy wouldn't even consider it or even try to negotiate. I gave him my number in case he wanted to reconsider and am thinking of calling with another offer of 6,400 if I don't hear from him this weekend.
I hate to lose this one but I don't want to find out later I paid too much. Does my offer sound fair or am I possibly going under the dealers profit line?
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It is a pretty tough but doable weekend project in your driveway. Where do you live? If in rustbelt, you can bet your lateral link bolts are frozen and the bushings need to be melted out. Just adds some time/effort/expense. PM me with your email if you want me to email my step by step notes to you.
Thanks for the advice!Unibrook, how difficult is it to do the bearings? I am fairly mechanically inclined but only have experience with light maintenance/repair such as changing oil,plugs,alternator,starter etc...With a repair manual and the right tools, I normally feel pretty confident about my ability.
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Hey guys, I'm needing to do VC gaskets on my 93 Legacy L (2.2)... do you need to use the black silicone gasket sealer on these? Because every bit of info I have found never mentions it, so I'm assuming no?
P.S.: Any difference between a Beck/Arnley gasket and a Fel-Pro one?
No gasket sealer on my 2.5 per Cityside Subaru in MA.
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My parts came in today and I'm ready to get greasy tomorrow. It looks like the gaskets have little nubs on one side. They're pretty irregularly spaced and look like they were molded there for a reason. Should the nubs face in or out? Will it just be obvious when I get the valve covers off?
it was obvous on my 2.5. keep a clean rag handy to cover the valve area since it is easy to have dirt fall in there as you wrangle out the cover. be careful not to overtorque the bolts as you reinstall. 3 ftlbs?
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It's the rear bearings. Expect them to go b4 100k miles.
You can replace them yourself with the right toolkit (about $350). I did.
Windshield is a bit fragile.
Front pass axle inner boot will crack early due to heat from exhaust pipe directly beneath it.
Clock will need a simple resolder.
Add the gasket mender goop to your coolant to keep the internal head gasket failure at bay.
Front 02 sensor may need replacing every 40k miles.
But that is about it. We like the car.
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Dave! Howzit bro?? you must be buried in snow there!
Good opp to give your subie a workout.
Nat
Sounds like the classic 05+ ghostwalking, which occurs at low speeds as well as 'fast' speeds (occurs at speeds low enough that other cars are passing the 05 like it's standing still), and which can be reduced with better tires and a 'proper' rear alignment, but is basically a design flaw. One poster got relief from replacing some of the rear link bushings which were softer than normal, it seemed.Lots of folks have posted their experiences in the referenced thread, and one thing is clear- its *not* from going too fast for the conditions.
Dave
A/C Air Condition Aircon compressor power
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Here are a couple of good clips showing multimeter testing of AC electronics: