FSRBIKER

It's been a great car, tons of room, great in all types of weather and pretty fun to drive. My biggest repairs other than the HG have been replacing the front calipers and the exhaust, break those costs down over the 5 years I have owned the car and it's maybe $25/month. Add in the new struts/coils I am going to do soon and it's about $35/month over the past 5 years.....MUCH LESS than a new car payment. I would much rather put money each month into my 64.5 Mustang convertible and 69 Bronco restorations than a new car payment.

I just turned 200,000 on my 97 Outback so i'd say it's worth owning. Yes I had a HG failure at 170,000 miles but I bought a 2.5 JDM engine and installed the new design head gaskets before i put it in. Overall the car is a good one, if the HG go then rebuild, get a 2nd gen 2.5, or a 2.2 but that's not a reason to not own one of these Outbacks IMO. Post up some specs like price, miles, maintenance done, condition so you can tell if it's a good value.

not me but my Outback turned 200,000 miles today!

If a 1997 JDM Legacy has one I wonder if the US Spec has the mounting holes as well. I guess I'll have to pop the headliner down and take a look. About how far from the back trim and side trim is it mounted?

Anyone know what year they added this to the Legacy Outbacks? It comes out from the headliner as I have seen it on Outbacks as I was driving. I want to add this if I can on my 97 since I occasionally install 3 car seats and the center one now has to use a car seats shoulder belts(instead of the shoulder belt with a booster seat), problem is my kids are getting bigger so this is going to be an issue soon.

Good detective work, I was just reading some similar articles about the company and the original product 1280X.

The story is also on Reuter's website. That complaint was filed two years ago in 2006, can you find an update. This is the info/discussions I wanted to see. I wonder how much they are paying Al Unser Jr. and his son to put there name on the product. http://ca.us.biz.yahoo.com/iw/080520/0399025.html

Some more info: http://biz.yahoo.com/iw/080214/0361786.html

Do you have a link to a write up. I was about to do the same thing and had the computer and all. I was told it was plug and play with the harnesses but it wasn't even close. I decided not to do the swap and resold the engine/computer for more than I had paid.

http://www.ethosfr.com/OurProduct/MSDS.html One ounce treats 10 gallons so it works out to be under $0.17 per gallon. Again not defending the product as I haven't used it.

I certainly don't disagree with you and don't buy into magic in a can. Let's see what others say, hopefully someone here has tried the product.

I know, I know another gas additive to boost mpg. Let's discuss this one that I found listed on Gasbuddy.com. It's called Ethos. http://www.thegassecret.net/index.html?zedo=ZZf379776Za434817Zg172Zw34Zm72Zc756000001,756000001Zs1Zi1ZZ

OEM pads stop very well and seem to last a long time, I went with Carquest organic pads this time as my friend runs the store. These pads stop extremely well, I did install new rotors and calipers so I am sure that helps but I am very happy with them.

How much did Subaru charge for the rebuild kit? I checked yesterday and Rock Auto had a new slave cylinder for under $25.

Gloyale they were actually using the kit I mentioned. I know what you are talking about with the dog bone now. I'll have to borrow a right angle drill probably to drill the fork but that is an option. Anyone have a clutch slave cylinder go bad, if so what happens...does it not release all the way, gets stuck out, etc? I'll have to remember when i leave work to see if I can push the fork back more while the car is running.

Gloyale the Subaru dealership I called did in fact use the kit. Yes the TO does squeal at idle, that's probably what pisses me off the most since I can then hear it easily. I checked yesterday on the fork and there is no hole for a spring and what dog bone bracket? Do you have a picture? I am going to change the clutch fluid and of course bleed the slave cylinder, not sure this will help but it needs to be done anyway.

I agree a one man bleeder is less than $15, I just replaced my front calipers on my 97 and used one.

I'm wondering if anyone has a spec on the "Quill" if you don't notice any significant grooving. I know it's $100 but it's cheap insurance IMO when you factor in your time to do the job twice....like I now have to do

I need to change my trans gear oil and i am heading to the auto parts store at lunch...anyone know the capacity of the 5 speed in 1997?

The tires are now inflated to 44psi(max sidewall rating) and the cross bars are off for this tank. On shifting an auto to neutral and back is there a safety to prevent from going into reverse? I don't know what a Subaru auto shifter gate looks like if it's a straight up/down pattern or if you have to push a button on the handle to go into reverse. Now on my wifes Toyota Sequoia if I just take my foot off the gas and cruise the instant MPG readout will go to 99mpg in about 2 seconds, I doubt putting it in neutral would help any since the tach also reads around 800 RPM's. Do the newer Subie's with the computer MPG readout give an instant or just avg MPG?

PB Blaster on the exhaust bolts helps. I wish I had that tip on the throw out bearing kit before I did mine, now I know better. Yea you really don't need to take the engine out of the engine bay, with the radiator out just move the engine forward and swap everything out. If you haven't changed the plugs in awhile do it now as well.

That would be a real tough one for a police officer to prove, I certainly wouldn't shut my engine off while driving though...that's dangerous. I am going to experiment with my tire pressure as well, first up to the max listed on the sidewall and see how the car handles/drives in different situations including rain.

I accelerate like normal which is definitely anti-hypermiling. If the fuel injectors reduce fuel when coasting it certainly isn't anywhere close to the improvements i had.

I had my flywheel turned ever so slightly when i had the engine out. This kit is used by Subaru dealers so yes it's reputable, probably not worth the effort to make the sleeve IMO and then source a correct fitting TO bearing. Yes it's a sleeve and oversize TO bearing. I just wish I knew about the kit before I replaced my clutch setup. Talking with a service dept about the whining the manager i spoke with said they will recommend to anyone getting a clutch replaced and if the trans has over 150,000 miles that the owner use the kit. For me it's a no brainer now and in the future if I buy another Subaru with high mileage.

I forgot I am also going to remove the cross bars too see if that helps any.